Tmac79
Tim
Thanks Mellow! Did mine yesterday. The magnet was amazingly full of gunk. Imagine my surprise when the old oil came out purple.
Article [13] ST1300 - Final Drive Oil Change
- Thread starter Mellow
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- 1300 maint
I asked to buy an original Honda final drive oil and Honda in GREECE sold me this.......
I suppose it's ok, is it??????
I suppose it's ok, is it??????
OP
OP
Yes, should be just fine GL-4 or 5.
I asked to buy an original Honda final drive oil and Honda in GREECE sold me this.......
I suppose it's ok, is it??????
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2007
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- 1,323
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- 62
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- Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
- Bike
- 1&2&3-2005 ST1300ABS
Just did my final drive oil change after 10,000 miles. What I'm starting to notice every oil change at 10,000 miles, there is shiney specks of steel in the gear oil. So I had a look thought the fill hole to see if the gears are wearing. There is a light frosting on the crown gear and the contact area shows me that there is perfect contact with the pinion. No wear so to speak.
I'm going to try a synthetic blend on the next oil change to see if that lessons the tiny specks of steel floating around in the oil.
Maybe check around to see if there are any snake oil salesman around that states these specks will go away if I use their oil.
I'm sure these gears will out last the engine and tranny, but I don't want a seal leak in the final drive due to the abrasive tiny steel specks floating around in the oil.
Again, just a reminder to keep changing the oil if you find tiny specks of steel floating around. Use a flashlight and shine it into the used oil. It's a cool light show.
I'm going to try a synthetic blend on the next oil change to see if that lessons the tiny specks of steel floating around in the oil.
Maybe check around to see if there are any snake oil salesman around that states these specks will go away if I use their oil.
I'm sure these gears will out last the engine and tranny, but I don't want a seal leak in the final drive due to the abrasive tiny steel specks floating around in the oil.
Again, just a reminder to keep changing the oil if you find tiny specks of steel floating around. Use a flashlight and shine it into the used oil. It's a cool light show.
Thanks for the post. I would like to add something for others that might be lurking.
If you've bought a bike and unsure of it's maintenance history (or question what the previous owner has stated; or in general, just curious), then I suggest:
* Drain the gear oil into a small container (I use a 2 gallon Ozarka water jug cut up), i.e., don't drain into a "oil drain bucket"
* Measure what you've drained; this also allows you to ascertain the condition of the oil.
Today, I drained 190ml - how the heck can that be?!?! Owner's Manuals states 155ml. I measure ~148ml (after spinning wheel) of fresh oil into the housing and it drips out.
(BTW, when the oil [initially] drips out, you can spin the wheel, as if going in reverse, and can then inject more oil into the housing).
If you've bought a bike and unsure of it's maintenance history (or question what the previous owner has stated; or in general, just curious), then I suggest:
* Drain the gear oil into a small container (I use a 2 gallon Ozarka water jug cut up), i.e., don't drain into a "oil drain bucket"
* Measure what you've drained; this also allows you to ascertain the condition of the oil.
Today, I drained 190ml - how the heck can that be?!?! Owner's Manuals states 155ml. I measure ~148ml (after spinning wheel) of fresh oil into the housing and it drips out.
(BTW, when the oil [initially] drips out, you can spin the wheel, as if going in reverse, and can then inject more oil into the housing).
Can anyone advise on the part number for the final drive oil filler cap, need to change the oil and heard they have a habit of shearing, so want to get a new one as a spare just in case.
Cheers
Cheers
Don't know about the 1300 but the 1100 cap is a "composite" material. Last time I changed gear oil I noticed that it was coming out at a funny angle. Ends up it had a "spiral crack" inline with the threads so nothing fell into the case but I wasn't putting it back in! I am careful tighening the cap so I think with 100K miles it was just tired. Was in the middle of other maintenance so local Honda had the part before I was needing it. I can't put my hand on the receipt at the moment but I think the cap and the o-ring are ordered separately. For the record, Honda recommends 24,000 mile drain interval for the 1100 final drive but I change it when I change the rear tire (typically around 15K) using AMSOIL 75W-90 synthetic gear lube (GL-5).
Ride Safe,
Ride Safe,
I still have the original cap on mine with over 124,000 miles on the bike, you should not need a new one.
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2007
- Messages
- 1,323
- Age
- 62
- Location
- Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
- Bike
- 1&2&3-2005 ST1300ABS
Mulski said:
Before I remove my fill cap, I put a small pencil mark on the cap and on the body. This gives me a reference mark so I don't over torque it.
Feels to me like it's made out of a cheap pot metal.
Here you go.
Item 2 CAP, VALVE ADJ. 12361-300-000 (replaces 12361-035-000) $5.85
Item 36 O-RING (30.8MM) 91302-001-020 $1.98
Attachments
Thanks Al
Cheers
Cheers
I never tighten it more than finger tight... there is an o-ring on it to seal.
I've had my ST for 1 year, and the final drive oil was changed when I bought it. I changed the final drive oil for my first time last night, and found the thread here quite helpful. I encountered no issues, and everything went easily. I did spin the wheel by hand a bit as the oil was draining, and a little after, to help drain the oil. I decided to try injecting fresh oil without the drain plug inserted so that I could drain whatever residual dirty oil might have still been in there. So after filling a bit of fresh oil, more dirty oil came out, and then a good stream of clean oil came out. Then I inserted the drain plug and filled it the rest of the way with fresh oil. I have no idea if that will make any practical difference, but it felt like a good thing to flush the old oil.
Thanks for all the photos and comments. I know it's a simple procedure, but it's great to see such great documentation. The same was true for the oil change threads. I had a super easy time changing the oil given the hints and tips given here.
Thanks,
Joel
Thanks for all the photos and comments. I know it's a simple procedure, but it's great to see such great documentation. The same was true for the oil change threads. I had a super easy time changing the oil given the hints and tips given here.
Thanks,
Joel
Re: ST1300-Final Drive Oil Change
Having just recently brought mysel a St1300, I'm finding this site to be very useful.n
Just have a questions regarding replacing the oil for the Final drive.
would it be better going out for a little ride to get the oil warm, So that it cames out easier?
Many Thanks
Lee
Having just recently brought mysel a St1300, I'm finding this site to be very useful.n
Just have a questions regarding replacing the oil for the Final drive.
would it be better going out for a little ride to get the oil warm, So that it cames out easier?
Many Thanks
Lee
OP
OP
Re: ST1300-Final Drive Oil Change
No, it doesn't matter at all. I change mine every other oil change and that's probably overkill.
No, it doesn't matter at all. I change mine every other oil change and that's probably overkill.
Re: ST1300-Final Drive Oil Change
+1 it might come out faster but not much extra is going to come out. You can get a little more out by draining then spinning the wheel a little to pile some more up by the drain hole.
It's such a small amount I change it like Joe, why not the catch pan is dirty anyway.
Note not likely a problem with the ST but it's good practice to make sure you can crack open a fill port before opening a drain port.
+1 it might come out faster but not much extra is going to come out. You can get a little more out by draining then spinning the wheel a little to pile some more up by the drain hole.
It's such a small amount I change it like Joe, why not the catch pan is dirty anyway.
Note not likely a problem with the ST but it's good practice to make sure you can crack open a fill port before opening a drain port.
Re: ST1300-Final Drive Oil Change
Just did mine today, marked the bolt location with a black marker to prevent over tightening, used a clear 5/16 hose to fill, went well no spillage. Thx for the how to, Al.
Just did mine today, marked the bolt location with a black marker to prevent over tightening, used a clear 5/16 hose to fill, went well no spillage. Thx for the how to, Al.
I changed my final oil today after about 30,000 miles. Last time it was done by the dealer. I set my brand new torque wrench at 9lb/ft or 108in/ft. Guess what, the fill cap sheared right off. I was sweating bullets, I thought I would be in for hundreads of dollars of repair. Then I came to realization that once the cap was sheared off, the screw part that was left in the hole was no longer under tension. It should come out easy. I wrapped a cloth on the end of a broom stick, forced it into the hole and turned counterclock wise.
Lady luck was with me. Not only did the broken screw come out, the dealer had a replacement part in stock. I snugged the bolts by feel this time. All is well again.
I think I will return the torque wrench to Canadian Tire. I don't trust it now. It should have clicked will before the cap broke. 9lb/ft is not that much.
Kenny
Lady luck was with me. Not only did the broken screw come out, the dealer had a replacement part in stock. I snugged the bolts by feel this time. All is well again.
I think I will return the torque wrench to Canadian Tire. I don't trust it now. It should have clicked will before the cap broke. 9lb/ft is not that much.
Kenny
Fnmag, thanks for the empathy. I need to gain the confidence in my new torque wrench. Do you know of a quick way to test if it is functioning or not?