ST1300 ECU-Knock sensor problem

Andrew Shadow said:
Clear the codes and see what happens- ECM Check and Reset Quick Guide. History is not on your side that the knock sensor issue will go away but you have nothing to loose.
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Hi Andrew, thanks, yep I will do that, I guess just wishing it away wont work! :) I get a tad nervous mucking about with modules, but the guide seems pretty straight forward. I found the procedure in the Top Box that someone had printed, but with the filter incorrectly fitted they would not have succeeded in any event!
 
I just purchased an '07 ST with this fault. The bike ran perfectly on my test ride. I will do some more testing when I get it home. However, it appears to me, as discussed above, that if there is a fault in either the ECU or the Knock Sensor (wiring). That as soon as the ignition is turned on the fault would be there instantly. That's not the case here. The fault resets when you turn off the ignition switch, then comes back again after you reach a certain threshold.... Grounding (earth) or an aftermarket product sounds more feasable as the cause than defective components, software or hardware.....
 
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I have not had a gap as yet to reset the ECU (busy, lazy...just got used to the FI light....) or have it reset, approx a month of riding and 1 600 km later the FI light kicks in fairly regularly, yesterday a stretch of 100 km in one direction, and no FI light, at all, averaging 130 km/h (approx. 81 MPH), however on my return trip and after the bike had cooled down for about two hours, I pulled away slightly harshly, and the FI light kicked in immediately, trying to outrun a storm I held her at between 140 and 160 km/ h and she just took it in her stride, FI light on.....it kind of lights up when it feels like it :( One of the threads mentions possible after fitment could cause it, the only after fitment that my Pan has is heated grips.

So the Gremlin lives on, more of an annoyance seeing that RED FI light come on
 
Took a 150 mile ride yesterday... The FI light came on twice, but this time, I noticed something different... There was no drop in Rpm or short pause when it happened either time. Just the light came on and the engine never faltered at all.. Still haven't had the time to check into this. There was a new sub harness and knock sensor that came with the bike. I have put 1000 miles on the bike in November.
 
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This is indeed one weird temperamental problem, when the light kicks in (when it feels like it) and she briefly pauses, I keep wondering is she straining or is she not, I then tuck my head down and give her a good ear twisting and she responds beautifully. oh....the reason I tuck my head down is purely to listen to the beautiful sound of that Big 4 .... '0
 
So...without flogging this topic to death too much, and being early days yet, I believe my latest little story holds some form of interest. Sunday morning, adamant I was going to ride irrespective of drizzly chilly 13 Deg Celsius temps, I had about half a tank of fuel left, I remembered a mate of mine had left about half a pint of Fuel Injector Cleaner for me after mixing some in his BM fuel tank, I poured the remainder into my tank, did a round trip of approx 100 km, cruising mostly at 140 km/h, no FI light....she ran beautifully...I thought ok, this wont last, the dreaded light will soon be back. Last night after work, wheeled her out, took another round trip, same distance, different quieter route, throttled and kept her at about 160 km/ h as long as it was safe to do so, and still no light...now this is the longest time since I took ownership of this bike that the FI light has not come on at all......so could the solution have been that simple? Injector Cleaner? Did I miss the most basic and probably the first thing I should have done step? I am hoping that this is a case of "always do the basics first before going into panic mode"....the ONLY other thing I am pondering, could this issue have anything to do with outside temperatures, since it has been cool weather that this light has not come on...is that even a possibility? Hoping for hot weather this weekend, time will tell. :)
 
New to me 05A. If you track my posts back you can see I just replaced the sub harness and had to ask a stupid question when buttoning it up.

I initially thought the harness had repaired the issue but no luck. It definitely retards performance. As for noticing it, it depends on what your doing. Higher gears and going about around town you will hardly notice because demand on the engine changes slightly with grade etc. It's easier to go unnoticed.

Find a flat spot and hold the revs about 5k in a lower gear, after resetting the code, and you can definitely see and feel the rpm drop.

You can see the rpm drop and hear the code happen simultaneously if you just hold the throttle above 4k in the garage.

Chasing this is extremely frustrating.
 
A knock sensor is piezoelectric , that means vibrations cause electricity. normal engine vibration will send voltage to the ecm. An engine knock will cause the voltage to spike. The ecm has predetermined timing programmed till the engine is warmed up. The when is see the need to advance the timing for max efficiency it will advance the timing til is gets a knock response and will get the timing to the best possible setting. When it advances the timing and does not get a expected response from the knock sensor it will set a code and go into a safe timing mode. Find the wires for the sensor at the ecm, back probe them with a dc volt meter. Start the engine and it should read some volts, .03 or close, take a hammer and knock on the engine block and look for voltage spikes. this will test sensor and wiring, if ok replace ecm. You can remove the knock sensor and bench test it , hook the meter up to it and tap on it with a small wrench and look for voltage spikes.
 
NewtonNole said:
New to me 05A. If you track my posts back you can see I just replaced the sub harness and had to ask a stupid question when buttoning it up.

I initially thought the harness had repaired the issue but no luck. It definitely retards performance. As for noticing it, it depends on what your doing. Higher gears and going about around town you will hardly notice because demand on the engine changes slightly with grade etc. It's easier to go unnoticed.

Find a flat spot and hold the revs about 5k in a lower gear, after resetting the code, and you can definitely see and feel the rpm drop.

You can see the rpm drop and hear the code happen simultaneously if you just hold the throttle above 4k in the garage.

Chasing this is extremely frustrating.
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I had the FI light problem on the '07 I bought last fall. .I was thouroughly convinced that it couldn't possibly be an ECM problem. The bike came with a new knock sensor and a sub harness. I verified the wiring was correct and the knock sensor was good. I ordered a used ECM off Ebay, installed it and the problem was corrected. I have ridden the bike a little more than 2000 miles since installing the ECM without any further problem... The ECM from 2003-2007 will work on your bike. Watch closely and you can pick up one at a reasonable price... I got mine for $60 including shipping......
 
bstig60 said:
I had the FI light problem on the '07 I bought last fall. .I was thouroughly convinced that it couldn't possibly be an ECM problem. The bike came with a new knock sensor and a sub harness. I verified the wiring was correct and the knock sensor was good. I ordered a used ECM off Ebay, installed it and the problem was corrected. I have ridden the bike a little more than 2000 miles since installing the ECM without any further problem... The ECM from 2003-2007 will work on your bike. Watch closely and you can pick up one at a reasonable price... I got mine for $60 including shipping......
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$150 ECM from an 04 fixed my issues.

The best part of chasing the sub harness first was fixing the coolant leak from loose clamps under the throttle bodies.

I appreciate all the help.
 
bstig60 said:
On my last ride when the FI light came on, there was no pause at all. If I hadn't looked down and saw the light was on, I would never have known it happened.
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With the throttle lock on mine looses about 5 mph when the light comes on
 
Just a follow-up! I have put about 6000 miles on my ST since I replaced the ECM, no more FI light. So far so good. Knock sensors and wiring checked good. I am sorry to say the problem is with the ECM, not the knock sensor.
 
fnmag said:
Glad you sorted your problem.
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My FI light has not come on again, I have covered about 5000 km since it last came on, so, either the gremlin has died or it will return in Summer, as mentioned before I have been of the opinion that my FI light issue was somehow outside temperature related as it seemed to only come on and dip some some power when outside temps were very hot. Will have to wait until about November for the high temps to return, time will tell. But so far so good.
 
Ian said:
My FI light has not come on again, I have covered about 5000 km since it last came on, so, either the gremlin has died or it will return in Summer, as mentioned before I have been of the opinion that my FI light issue was somehow outside temperature related as it seemed to only come on and dip some some power when outside temps were very hot. Will have to wait until about November for the high temps to return, time will tell. But so far so good.
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Glad your problem hasn't returned. Did you check the code when the light came on?
 
bstig60 said:
Glad your problem hasn't returned. Did you check the code when the light came on?
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I did not check the code at any stage when I had the problem, however, if the light comes on again at any stage, then I most defnitely will persue it!
 
Ian said:
[...] it seemed to only come on and dip some some power when outside temps were very hot. Will have to wait until about November for the high temps to return, time will tell. But so far so good.
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I seem to be experiencing your pain. Last week my bike tripped the FI light and threw error code 26. The longer I rode the lower the RPM was that I needed to maintain to trip the error, this was in 30°C+ temperatures. It started off tripping when I held over 4500 rpm, but by an hour later, 3900 rpm would activate the error.

This morning I rode in and the ambient air temp was 18°, ran 4200 rpm for 10 miles, no issue, 4500 rpm for awhile no issue and the last few miles I held 4800 rpm, never an issue.

Temperature shoudl be back up in a week, we'll see what happens.
 
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T_C said:
I seem to be experiencing your pain. Last week my bike tripped the FI light and threw error code 26. The longer I rode the lower the RPM was that I needed to maintain to trip the error, this was in 30°C+ temperatures. It started off tripping when I held over 4500 rpm, but by an hour later, 3900 rpm would activate the error.

This morning I rode in and the ambient air temp was 18°, ran 4200 rpm for 10 miles, no issue, 4500 rpm for awhile no issue and the last few miles I held 4800 rpm, never an issue.

Temperature shoudl be back up in a week, we'll see what happens.
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Ok.. interesting indeed, so possibly it could indeed be temperature related. I have bot seen a t posts specifically related to temperature, but it only seemed to happen in 30 plus deg temps, that's what got me wondering. What you describe is identical to what I have been experiencing, as previously mentioned I would have to wait until approx November before our temperatures reach 30 deg C plus. This as I understand it is a Knock sensor issue...I am not entirely sure, but if it is well, I guess, personally I will just live with the annoyance...as you say, we will see what happens.
 
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