Article [13] ST1300 - Brake Maintenance - Photos of dismantled SMC

A faulty SMC, taken apart, sawn lengthways, with labelled photos and a commentary. This SMC had a brand new service kit fitted not long before it failed again.

A while ago I posted a query concerning some weird behaviour on a friends braking system. The symptoms were that in spite of getting rid of the air in his brakes and the brakes feeling absolutely fine, over a period of miles, his left SMC calliper would start to chatter and his rear pedal would go soft. A few pumps of the pedal and his rear brake would return to normal. I spent a long time with him over the phone to make sure that this wasn't an air issue and produced the article that I posted here 'Getting all of the air out of the Brake System'. He worked on the brakes with a friendly mechanic - always ending up with the same result. Brakes initially OK, and would get worse over a few miles.
In the meantime, he did some tests for me and we decided that in spite of the SMC service kit having been replaced in the last couple of years, that the full SMC bracket would be required. Last week, he fitted the new bracket and everything is working properly and better than they have ever done. Yesterday, I received a parcel in the post. His old SMC ! So naturally, I took it apart and took some photos - which I thought I would share.

Click the thumbnails to see a larger 800x600 image.


First - various views of the SMC taken from an ST1300A4 bike. Note the little drain hole at the left end of the master cylinder in the first pic - modified in the last photo which is from my ST1300A9. There are white plastic plugs inserted into the inlet port and the outlet port. I can't think why, given what I was about to do with this unit. Somewhere to keep them safe, perhaps !

ST1300A4 Drain Hole.jpg SMC-ST1300A4-02.jpg SMC-ST1300A4-03.jpg SMC-ST1300A4-04.jpg SMC-ST1300A4-05.jpg ....... ST1300A9 --> ST1300A9 Drain Hole.jpg


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Prior to removing the circlip to release the piston from the cylinder bore. The circlip is particularly difficult to access - even with the unit off the bike on the work bench. The lack of light and rubber boot and the plunger being in the way hinder things considerably. Note that in the last photo, I gave up and removed the bracket and the boot in order to get a better view. This should not be done unless a new piston service kit is to be fitted. The securing bolt is set to the correct length at the factory, and the correct length is critical.

SMC-ST1300A4-05.jpg SMC-ST1300A4-06.jpg SMC-ST1300A4-07.jpg SMC-ST1300A4-08.jpg SMC-ST1300A4-09.jpg

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In the next sequence, the piston has been removed. The photos show the amount of crud that has built up behind the boot. This unit was greased behind the boot and the drain hole was kept clear. Nevertheless, this is a mess.

SMC-ST1300A4-10.jpg SMC-ST1300A4-11.jpg SMC-ST1300A4-12.jpg SMC-ST1300A4-13.jpg SMC-ST1300A4-14.jpg SMC-ST1300A4-15.jpg

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Here I have turned the bracket over and removed the inlet port cover plate, which is retained with 2 small bolts, which have thread lock applied. Underneath is a rubber ring and a small white cylindrical cartridge - the SMC inlet port valve and the relief port

SMC-ST1300A4-17.jpg SMC-ST1300A4-18.jpg

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The Inlet port valve and relief port cartridge. both sides have a very fine mesh gauze. I haven't dismantled it at this point. The last two photos show the inside view of the larger inlet port hole and the very tiny relief port at the bottom of a small depression.

SMC-ST1300A4-19.jpg SMC-ST1300A4-20.jpg SMC-ST1300A4-22.jpg

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These photos are just for info for anyone who is interested and may find them useful.

First the service kit. In fact, this is the very service kit that was installed in the SMC just two years previously. Clearly, something went wrong - this SMC should not look like it did after only 2 years.

1586456833553.png

And that little cartridge. The white cartridge duplicates the holes for the inlet port and the very tiny hole for the compensation port. The Inlet port has a spring loaded one-way valve in it, allowing fluid to flow in through the inlet port, but not allowing it back out - except through the compensation port. I am not entirely sure of the reason for this. One suggestion has been to aid brake bleeding - but there are no bleed points on the SMC, and the primary seal acts as a one way valve, so there would be no need. My feeling is that it has something to do with the inlet port being connected directly to the centre piston of the left caliper - perhaps to prevent any backward pressure from applying the front brake. But that is speculation, and I cannot see how this would arise, unless the SMC seals were failing.

Inlet Port Cartridge.jpg SMC Port Cartridge.jpg

And finally, evidence of what I did with this broken SMC !

Sawn lengthways (almost). The narrow end is as a result of having to saw down the bore at a slight angle. It clearly shows the the inlet port and compensation port, and the build up of corrosion at the pushrod (left) end.

Sawn-in-half.JPG

And a different view with the components installed. The positions of the two ports behind the piston are clearly marked - the consequences of the piston not being able to return fully to its resting position, are that the primary seal, blocks it off, prebenting it from releasing pressure.


SMC Section Labelled.jpg
So what was the fault with this SMC ?

Well the metal 'cup' at the end of the piston which is closest to SMC plunger was a very tight fit inside the cylinder bore. There was no build up of crud just inside the bore - in spite of the amount on the outside, and the metal cup didn't feel rough. When the piston was pushed inside the bore, it met with resistance once the secondary seal was inside - the metal cup was tight against the sides. When it was pushed in further, it eased up and would return part way under spring pressure.
This sounds like the classic situation which often results in the SMC not returning and causing the back brake to lock, but this wasn't the case - on the contrary, the pedal lost pressure.
As it stands at the moment, I reckon that the cylinder has had a slight knock and has become slightly oval. Although the secondary seal was doing its job, the fluid was able to move back past the primary seal, resulting in the long pedal and chattering SMC bracket. My diagnosis might be wrong but its a working theory.


[Edit]A separate link here shows pictures of a brand new SMC unit for a 2008-onward ST1300, including a measurement for the plunger.[/Edit]
 
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If we're down to which gauge high-e string to make a difference, that is TIGHT.
It's a tiny string, but I guess the more appropriate adjective should be "teeny- tiny."
A matter of degrees (ok, then, thousandths), but they apparently matter.
So, if you only have cello strings or bass strings... don't even bother.
 
The point was - we knew that it was tiny. But my 0.012 E string went through the hole in my last SMC (30,000 miles), but the exact same string did not go through my current (37,000) mile hole.
Larry said it was a light electric guitar string - really tiny - that he used.
I really can't say whether there was a hole there or whether it was blocked. It wasn't blocked by crud - nothing came out, but there is definitely a 0.012 hole there now !!

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And did it make a difference to being able to push in the two rear outer pistons by hand ? Yes. Marginally. It is now possible using only two thumb pressure. Before it needed the assistance of a gently twist/pry an oval shaped 'tool'. (A screwdriver handle). This applies pressure to all sides of the piston equally. But I did notice the the front centre piston was difficult to push in by hand too - so that suggest (maybe) an issue with the rear master cylinder compensation port. That can wait for a while. Everything else is very clean - including behind the front caliper pistons.
 
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Well, tonight after reading this and a number of other posts on the SMC, I decided to take mine apart on my 'new to me' 2012 that I have ridden for less than 10 miles. I was shocked to see the condition it was in. (This bike was really clean and well maintained - only 18k miles on it and I have really gone through it)

2024-03-17 20.40.40.jpg 2024-03-17 20.40.43.jpg 2024-03-17 20.42.37.jpg 2024-03-17 10.00.03.jpg

Ended up ordering a new one from Web Bike World - $112 including shipping. Their website indicated they had 3 left and I did confirm the part number for my 2012 - (they make it clear no cancellation/refund)

D24-0300.jpg D24-0302.jpg


Thanks for the info and all the work you put into this
 
Well, tonight after reading this and a number of other posts on the SMC, I decided to take mine apart on my 'new to me' 2012 that I have ridden for less than 10 miles. I was shocked to see the condition it was in. (This bike was really clean and well maintained - only 18k miles on it and I have really gone through it)

2024-03-17 20.40.40.jpg 2024-03-17 20.40.43.jpg 2024-03-17 20.42.37.jpg 2024-03-17 10.00.03.jpg

Ended up ordering a new one from Web Bike World - $112 including shipping. Their website indicated they had 3 left and I did confirm the part number for my 2012 - (they make it clear no cancellation/refund)

D24-0300.jpg D24-0302.jpg


Thanks for the info and all the work you put into this
You'll need part number #12 (grommet) also, and 4 new crush washers.
makes me wonder what condition your clutch slave cylinder is in?
If you want to spend a few minutes on the white courtesy phone, give me a call, and I'll walk you through some inspections, and stuff to check, that you probably had/have no idea that its wrong/damage/needs to be replaced :rofl1:
 
One thing we learn around here (if not already known) is motorbikes need to be ridden, to preserve their youth.

Museum pieces and garage queens, counter-intuitively, die an early death due to neglect. Like us, they need regular exercise to stay in good shape. Now shut up and pass the jelly doughnuts.
 
For as well as the brakes on the ST1300 work when they are working properly, and I do find them to have a very efficient braking system, I do think that Honda really screwed up on this SMC design. There are hardly ever any troubles with the SMC on the ST1100. They had already learned the design lessons with it, why did they feel the need to redesign and improve it?
 
I am not seeing how to get the top white screen off the cartridge?

And to confirm, when it goes back together, the larger hole goes over the smaller hole in the casting?


cartridge.jpg

edited to add - I was able to get a strand of copper wire (.009") up through the small hole using some forceps to keep it from bending over
2024-03-18 09.56.03.jpg
 
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SMC Port Cartridge 2.gifIt doesn't matter - although it would be logical. But the tiny port emerges into the bottom of the inlet port - not as a hole, but as a hollow with a hole in the middle of it. It is countersunk.
The blue spars that hold the spring and non return valve in place are narrower than the width of that hollow. So whichever way you put it in, the fluid emerging from a 0.009 inch hole is going to find a way through.

Getting the white screen off - I use a couple of pins. There is a bit of a recess between the white nylon body and the ring that holds the gauze. With a pin you can poke into the side, and lift it a bit. With two pins, you can stop one side going back down while to do the same on the opposite side.

When replacing the assembled cartridge, the blue bit goes in first - so you cannot see it.

I've modified the image to show a representation of the recess.
 
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SMC Port Cartridge 2.gifIt doesn't matter - although it would be logical. But the tiny port emerges into the bottom of the inlet port - not as a hole, but as a hollow with a hole in the middle of it. It is countersunk.
The blue spars that hold the spring and non return valve in place are narrower than the width of that hollow. So whichever way you put it in, the fluid emerging from a 0.009 inch hole is going to find a way through.

Getting the white screen off - I use a couple of pins. There is a bit of a recess between the white nylon body and the ring that holds the gauze. Wiht a pin you can poke into the side, and lift it a bit. With two pins, you can stop one side going back down while to do the same ont he opposite side.

When replacing the assembled cartridge, the blue bit goes in first - so you cannot see it.

I've modified the image to show a representation of the recess.

Thanks, I am pretty sure that is how the cartridge was placed when I took it apart, but the photo didn't come out... Removing the white screen took more effort than I expected, definitely need two things to get the screen part straight up and out.

I think I am going to clean everything up and just run with it - making sure I have a 8mm 'emergency wrench' on hand for a bleed screw, if needed.

This bike exhibited no actual symptoms, the rear brake pads were worn pretty uniformly and everything else appears to be in good condition.
I used some 3000 grit Trizact wet sandpaper, it has a foam backing, to gently clean everything up and I will have the new SMC (at a decent price) to fall back on if needed
 

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I would do it the other way round. Fit the new one, use the old one as a backup. SMCs do not fail by themselves, they need help - like not having fluid changed; thinking that putting grease behind the boot and then failing to refit it correctly; some previous owner messing with it; bike falling over and knocking the bore out of shape. Your old one failed badly - otherwise it wouldn't look like that.

But now you know what it looks like when it is neglected, you will not let it. All it needs is a good flush of new fluid from a brand new sealed container every year or 18 months, using the correct procedure.

If you ever lift that boot on the SMC, make absolutely certain that it is placed correctly and that it seals. There's another of my posts in the article section about that. I reckon that your seal has not been fitted properly. Ask if you don't know. Link

Mine have never looked like that, nor have they ever failed. The photos at the start of this thread were reporting on a friend's SMC that did fail, so he gave me it to cut open. It was a learning process. My recent post was a result of needing to remove the left caliper to investigate why the caliper didn't seem to be sliding properly. So I took the opportunity to take a look at what mine was like after 37000 miles, see what, if anything, was going on. I was curious !
 
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I will keep in mind, but part of me wants to find out why this can't be just a simple fix? None of the parts actually appear to be damaged or corroded enough to actually affect their operation, but there was definitely some water intrusion. The rust marks appear to have been from the little metal washer that sits on top of the spring. For the most part, they washed right off.

I agree that making sure the rubber boot is full of grease should be a regular/annual maintenance item
 
I am well aware of that, but this is more of a case of 'water intrusion' along with dirt and other 'road grime'. I took apart all (3) calipers for inspection and cleaning and they all looked good - no signs of corrosion on any of the pistons, or fluid contamination behind them.

I think keeping that rubber boot filled with grease would go a long way in preventing this from happening (along with routine brake fluid flush. Not the best design by Honda, but it is what it is.
 
Thanks, I am pretty sure that is how the cartridge was placed when I took it apart, but the photo didn't come out... Removing the white screen took more effort than I expected, definitely need two things to get the screen part straight up and out.

I think I am going to clean everything up and just run with it - making sure I have a 8mm 'emergency wrench' on hand for a bleed screw, if needed.

This bike exhibited no actual symptoms, the rear brake pads were worn pretty uniformly and everything else appears to be in good condition.
I used some 3000 grit Trizact wet sandpaper, it has a foam backing, to gently clean everything up and I will have the new SMC (at a decent price) to fall back on if needed

Since I had a photo of the part in question in the state in question...

Here's the cartridge in the SMC before I removed it. Nuf said.

1710818174063.png
 
Just for info, the SMC I ordered from WebBikeWorld in Japan was delivered today. I ordered it on March 17th, so just about 10 days total, which I thought was pretty reasonable, especially at this price point. Well packaged, and factory sealed.

I thought it would take a lot longer (up to a month), so I went ahead and changed it out.
 

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