Article [13] ST1300 - Audiovox CCS-100 Troubleshooting

I am not an auto or motorcycle mechanic but I installed mine. It is not for the faint-hearted but if you are electro-mechanicly inclined, it will take a weekend to install. Gather and study all the notes on this forum and go for it.

With this cruise control, I have been able to do regular 500-700 mile days and on occasions a lot more. Why Honda never added this to the ST is beyond me.

JohnConner
:rd13:
 
I've had one on mine for almost ten years. I had to replace it two years ago. And would replace it again if it goes out. From start to finish, I can do one now in about 6 hours. The first time I had help, and it took two days. I seal the back of the switch with silicone to help keep moisture out. And I also installed a vacuum canister.
I use mine all the time. And I have been very happy with it. But I do think I would go with the Rostra next time.
 
gray wire screenshot.jpg
I am replacing the Audiovox control. As I mentioned earlier, there was a green wire broken from the plug. I cut the plastic shield on the wire housing from the old controls, and I discover there is a gray wire, that has no seal on it and no connection. My question is it possible the gray wire is to be connected to nothing, or should I keep looking for a connection for it. Looking at the instructions the black and gray wires are not both used, but it seems there should be a connection on the gray. Any insight on this?
Ron
 
This is what I found on another Audiovox install page for FJR 1300

The gray control-pad wire
Here's another item that's missing from Arlen Bloom's original 2003 instructions: the black wire from the switch housing goes to ground, "the gray wire should go to switched power. Any switched power will do - you don't have to run it to your turn signals / running lights. The gray wire controls the backlight LEDs inside the switch housing, and the manual says to connect that wire to your running lights on the theory that they come on with your headlights - that is, only at night. But on a motorcycle there's no difference between the running lights and any other switched power.
 
I replaced the old audiovox control and found a switch wire that I hooked to the gray. So there were two unconnected wire, green and gray. After it is all connected, and just turning it on, with engine off, it was backlit. My old one was never backlit while I had it. I never did find the purple wire.
 
is anyone running the murpskits ccs100 cruise, which is a replacement for the audiovox? I really need cruise control to help with my hand going numb.
 
Dinkie Diesel said:
Red wire to the servo MUST have 12 volts.
Purple wire to servo. 12 volts with brakes on, 0 volts with brakes off. Any voltage on this wire will prevent engagement of the cruise.
Black wire to servo must be grounded. No ground, no workie.
Blue wire to servo. Must be connected to ignition coil to get tach signal. Can't check with voltmeter. I think you can see something about this with the LED in the servo, but I don't remember how to check. Somebody step up, please. You can read AC volts on this wire, and the LED in the servo housing flashes according to this signal, i.e. faster with higher engine speed.
Brown wire in control pad harness. 12 volts with the pad on button pressed, remains 12 after releasing the on button. Goes to 0 with the off button pressed.
Green wire in control pad harness. 12 volts when set/coast is pressed.
Yellow wire in control pad harness. 12 volts when resume/accel is pressed.
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I struggle with electric. When I check the volts in the lines, what state does the control have to be in? Ignition key on? Should bike be running? Do I have to hit the appropriate key to check? Also will a clamp meter measure volts and will it be accurate enough?
 
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STmark1300 said:
I struggle with electric. When I check the volts in the lines, what state does the control have to be in? Ignition key on? Should bike be running? Do I have to hit the appropriate key to check? Also will a clamp meter measure volts and will it be accurate enough?
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When you're checking voltage, the ignition should be on. When checking the set/coast or the resume/accel buttons, the unit should be "ON" with the indicator light on the control pad illuminated.

A clamp meter will not measure your voltage.

John
 
v8-7 said:
After lifting the airbox I found the linkage had become disconnected due to a screw coming loose and falling out .

Time to pick up some blue treadlocker ..
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Just reading this article and I think your comments may prove to be the source of my issues. My cruise does engage but drops down significantly below my set speed so one thought is that the linkage has become loose and is giving too much slippage in the linkage .... I assume that linkage is under the airbox.
 
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