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Any pictures of that process?
ST1100 typical problems?
- Thread starter Christianncg
- Start date
Any pictures of that process?
Sorry, I don't have any, didn't think about taking pictures until after I was done. It was still in there when I sold the bike before moving to the US, the OEM pump failed at 80k km, a used replacement went at 100k km and I sold it at 260k+ km.
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I found some photos. Seems this is viable to limit and regulate fuel output. Thank you.
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Just as an end to this thread, I decided to keep the pump. Failing pumps tend to exhibit low amperage draws, and low flow. I have a 1.25 amp draw and correct flow. I will replace the pump with a honda, or an airtex with the oem regulator when the time comes.
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This may be a viable ST1100 alternative pump, a replacement pump for a Kawasaki Voyager ZG1200.
It has a built in regulator ( I think ) and 4 wires - +12 volts, Ground, switched +12 volts from the start switch, and primary voltage input. Should work great if a mounting location is possible.
It has a built in regulator ( I think ) and 4 wires - +12 volts, Ground, switched +12 volts from the start switch, and primary voltage input. Should work great if a mounting location is possible.
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Sounds like your pump is good for now - to my recollection I don't believe the board has been able to sort out a common failure time frame (years, miles etc). If you plan on doing any multi day long riding it would be cheap insurance to carry a spare since they don't take up much room and can be swapped out very easily on the road.
Carry on!
Carry on!
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Thanks, I'll keep it in mind.
A fairly minor but common thing on the ST11 is the hose coming off the thermostat housing. It makes a sharp bend to get back down to the expansion tank. It tends to crack at this bend, causing it to expel fluid when hot and suck air when cooling, eventually being low on coolant and running hot.
Also, while you've got the carbs off, replace everything you can, including the aluminum coolant elbows and o-rings... you don't want to save a few shekels and then have to go back in there. I recently pulled my ST11 carbs, with a write-up here. Good luck with your new bike!
Also, while you've got the carbs off, replace everything you can, including the aluminum coolant elbows and o-rings... you don't want to save a few shekels and then have to go back in there. I recently pulled my ST11 carbs, with a write-up here. Good luck with your new bike!
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Thank you for your reply, but unfortunately my motor is cracked in the valley. I have a replacement engine that will be here in a few weeks. Until then I do not know the state of things.
Slydynbye
Will ride for Pie
Cracked in the Valley? Sounds like the Elbows and O-rings. Got any Pics?
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I wish. The crack is shooting off the coolant pipe, right side bolt hole block side and making it's way to the valley. Didn't see it until the PAIR valve was removed. Never rode it for more than 5 minutes. Oh well. The new motor has 20k less miles. 
Just thinking... is the replacement motor a pre '96, i.e. with the 28A alternator? Have you considered a later model with the 40A alternator? I assume it would fit right in?
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Just shy of 75k miles, but I just got this bike. It is in less then stellar Condition. The PO was the type to hoon. Not surprisingly I technically paid 1100 for it, but it ran. Its been taken apart before.
Paul, I actually ordered all of the 40A alternator stuff before this happened. It just became easier to put the alternator in now, and clean the other motor. Just means i have a spare one for parts.
Paul, I actually ordered all of the 40A alternator stuff before this happened. It just became easier to put the alternator in now, and clean the other motor. Just means i have a spare one for parts.