ST1100 typical problems?

[Christianncg]

Hello everyone, This is my first (second sans introduction) thread so go easy on me. I've just come across one hell of a trade, a 250 hyosung of mine for a 91 ST1100. So far, I LOVE this bike. I have quite the mechanical hard on for v4's, and with one that is north south like this one (transverse??) its staying with me till it blows up. That being said, there is always a list of necessary repairs and modifications that usually need to be done to bikes like this, like on the v65 an oil modification was necessary to keep the heads oiled, and on my virago a starter solenoid was needed to start the bike. So far, for this bike, I have:

*40 amp alternator upgrade (mine is covered in an inch thick layer of old oiled dirt, and clearly leaking/ undercharging. Some really great quality threads here on parts, was able to source everything on ebay.)
*Removal of the fuel vacuum valve, and associated parts with it. Replacing of fuel lines and fuel filters.
*potentially a timing belt. (75k miles. As a former Goldwing owner I am familiar with the various religious texts formed about the intervals of timing belts. Here everyone seems sensible at about 90k replacements.)
*PAIR valve removal. Unnecessary weight and complication to a bike like this. That, and one of mine is stuck open, constant popping in the exhaust.

Is there anything else I should fix or inspect now while the bike is in pieces? Anything not obvious that tends to go around this milage? Thank you.

 

[Bush]

You've covered some of the "biggies" already and sound like you are quite familiar with a set of wrenches, so once you are in there pulling the PAIR system, you might as well change those coolant hoses AND the elbows and o-rings they attach to. Also give the rear wheel hub, splines and rubber dampers a good inspection.

 

[Christianncg]

Thank you for your reply. I ordered the rear oring set for the rear splines. It was quite greasy back there. The splines look ok. As for the coolant hoses and associated o rings I will be giving the whole motor a simple green bath. There is too much dirt to determine the condition of said hoses and joints. With 400 dollars already in to all of this ( I bought the denso alternator instead of honda one, says its a direct fit) my wife is already steamed well done. :bow1:

 

[Bush]

my wife is already steamed well done.

Ha Ha! I guess your mistake there was telling her! Having had a Wing, I would imagine you know about the Moly lube for the splines and may have seen the big debate here about a replacement for the now discontinued Honda Moly 60.

 

[Christianncg]

I have no choice. I fear credit cards and she has them. I technically pay them off as she is jobless but its useless, kinda like apologizing to a rabid pit bull.

Actually, I avoided that crap festival pretty easily. The PO of the Goldwing had a bunch of lubricants and oils for the bike having worked for a dealership.. I might even still have some in my tote of crap in the attic.

 

[Jim Van]

When you remove the carbs to remove the Pair stuff, replace the 4 carb rubber couplers. I bet they will be hard. And the two small coolant hoses, elbows, and gaskets. The elbows are notorious for cracking.

 

[Christianncg]

Suprisingly not. They appear to have been replaced by the po. I have the carbs, air box, plastics and tank removed as of now.

 

[Bush]

I ordered the rear oring set for the rear splines. It was quite greasy back there. The splines look ok

Just thought to ask if you found a thrust washer on that rear wheel hub, as they have been known to disappear through previous improper maintenance?

 

[Bush]

The elbows are notorious for cracking.

That needs to be qualified, as in, after the hoses have been removed, but without apparent damage to the elbows, only to bust apart after all the work has been done.

 

[Oldbikefixr]

From your description, the previous owner wasn't into cleanliness. That's a lead in to one of my concerns. ST's have an electronic central nervous system. Accumulations of crud can hide or cause problems with the connectors, grounds and wiring. I would suggest you clean all the wiring and unsnap every connector you can reach and inspect for overheating indications and corrosion...fix what you find. Locate all the frame ground connections, loosen and clean those as well.

 

[Christianncg]

Just thought to ask if you found a thrust washer on that rear wheel hub, as they have been known to disappear through previous improper maintenance?

The thin 2 inch OD washer between the splined driven gear and the wheel hub? Yeah its there and in good shape. Dampeners look good too.

 

[Christianncg]

From your description, the previous owner wasn't into cleanliness. That's a lead in to one of my concerns. ST's have an electronic central nervous system. Accumulations of crud can hide or cause problems with the connectors, grounds and wiring. I would suggest you clean all the wiring and unsnap every connector you can reach and inspect for overheating indications and corrosion...fix what you find. Locate all the frame ground connections, loosen and clean those as well.

Thank you for the reply. Every bike I get that is old gets the full std. Treatment. Electrical, carbs, a good wash and inspection. I don't buy it and ride it, i test rode it but after that it got stripped to nigh frame, and the bike given a mechanical massage with the optional happy endings. The last bike i owned, a 07 hyosung 250 gt, needed a whole new harness, stator, and reg\ rec. Gives you an idea of why i did the 40 amp swap right away. A bad stator/ reg rec can fry everything attatched to it under the right circumstances.

 

[Bush]

with the optional happy endings.

for sure don't tell the wife about that!

 

[Woonjas]

How are the swing arm and exhaust collector? both have a tendency to rust. The collector rusting through still pisses me off, stainless headers, stainless cans, but all tied together with a collector made out of cheap *** soda can material.

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk

 

[Christianncg]

No rust thankfully. The tank has a bit on the outside, but spotless inside. Swing arm looks great. Not a spot of rust.

 

[Christianncg]

Im waiting on about 25 parts including air filter, fuel filter, brake pads, a used rear rotor, 40a alternator swap parts and rear seals for spline shaft. Oil and filter change and carb bowl seals too.

 

[smunderdog]

Fuel pump has also become a topic of conversation around here...and there are a couple different ways to replace it...

 

[Christianncg]

Mine sounds healthy. I jumpered it to drain the tank, no abnormal noises. In fact, given the spotless tank and pump assembly, id believe its probably been serviced before.

Different ways huh? Does that imply a scarcity of parts or a remedy for a future ailment?

 

[smunderdog]

There is an aftermarket replacement pump (Airtex) that drops right into the assembly where the OEM pump is but forum members have had varied success with it in spite of it's specs being the same/similar to the OEM pump.

The other route taken is to mount a Facet external pump to the bracket where the fuel diaphragm used to be (assuming you've removed it). I believe this can even be done pre-emptively and run inline keeping the original pump in the tank so when the OEM pump starts to weaken the Facet is already there waiting to go.

 

[Woonjas]

There is an aftermarket replacement pump (Airtex) that drops right into the assembly where the OEM pump is but forum members have had varied success with it in spite of it's specs being the same/similar to the OEM pump.

The other route taken is to mount a Facet external pump to the bracket where the fuel diaphragm used to be (assuming you've removed it). I believe this can even be done pre-emptively and run inline keeping the original pump in the tank so when the OEM pump starts to weaken the Facet is already there waiting to go.

The airtex worked fine for mine, reused the pressure regulator bit that sits at the end of the OEM pump (past the screen)

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk