ST1100 Tools for removing and reinstalling rear wheel (can I get a doublecheck?)

Mountain Mike

Mountain Mike

I frequent the IBA Motel
Joined
Apr 28, 2008
Messages
401
Location
Bellingham, MA
Bike
ST1300
So I was quoted $90 to install a rear tire! Then they said $30 if I just bring them the wheel. So this is as good of a time as any to teach myself rear wheel removal.
Just to make sure I have all the correct stuff before I start a parking lot removal is there anything wrong with my plan below?

Tools needed:
a. Hex Keys - for mudflap
b. Ratcheting breaker bar - For removing axle nut ** Narrow handle is nice because I could use mine like a giant punch to push out the axle.
c. 'bent' ratcheting wrench set including 14mm and 15mm - for fork, brake, exhaust (Thanks UnclePhil)
d. 27mm metric socket for axle nut (Thanks DeanR!) *Try to find a non-torq socket, the thinner walls will allow it to fit easier past the exhaust.
e. Torque wrench (reinstalling axle nut)
f. Molly 60 paste from Honda shop. (Thanks Carl!) or LocTite Moly paste, 65% molybdenum disulfide.
**Mail order this, every bike shop I checked never herd of the stuff.
g. Acid Brush
f. Size 17 allen/hex key. ($10 at sears, 6 in the below picture) **this is for wiggling out the axle, but at the size and price of the thing I opted to make my own with a bolt and couple nuts of same size with a 17mm wrench.

Replace the 3 0-rings listed here with every new rear tire. Cheap insurance. http://home.insightbb.com/~mmartin36/3rdOring.htm


And follow the below steps:
091.png


In picture 4, I removed the rear bolt for the muffler so I could lift it a couple more centimeters of clearance for the socket. Edit: I later bought a thinner, non-torq, socket and it fit a lot easier.

In picture 7 you are using the handle of the honda pliers to pry off the pumpkin.
 
Re: Tools for removing and reinstalling rear wheel (can I get a doublecheck?)

That's molly PASTE for the splines.
Not all Honda dealers carry it so they don't use it.
Some that carry it don't think it has a use and don't use it.

If they don't autozone or some such might have 60% moly engine assy lube. NLGI No.2

Moly GREASE is not the same. This stuff is mostly moly and well pasty thick. Put it on both sides (splines) with an acid brush or something.
Take the old gunky stuff off 1st.

Might want a practice run before trying it in their lot.
 
Re: Tools for removing and reinstalling rear wheel (can I get a doublecheck?)

st1300r said:
That's molly PASTE for the splines....
...This stuff is mostly moly and well pasty thick. Put it on both sides (splines) with an acid brush or something.
Take the old gunky stuff off 1st.

Might want a practice run before trying it in their lot.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I was going to do the removal in the parking lot where I am staying and drive the wheel over in the truck just in case.
 
Re: Tools for removing and reinstalling rear wheel (can I get a doublecheck?)

st1300r said:
Not all Honda dealers carry it so they don't use it.
Some that carry it don't think it has a use and don't use it.
Click to expand...

If they don't have it, what can I use in a pinch?
 
Re: Tools for removing and reinstalling rear wheel (can I get a doublecheck?)

Rear axle nut = 27 mm Mike.
 
Depending on how long it has been since the last R&R, you should also look at replacing the o-rings ... I apologize for not having the info on those handy, but someone (Like John O) will likely chime in ASAP ...

-Adam
 
I believe 27mm is also 1-1/16"
Both (one or the other same thing) should hopefully be available in you local pep boys autozone etc.

If they don't have moly paste be happy they aren't putting the wheel back on :)

http://www.casporttouring.com/store/merchant.mvc?store_code=CST&screen=PROD&product_code=23500

LocTite Moly paste, 65% molybdenum disulfide

TS-70 Moly Paste,

http://www.hondadirectlineofshadyside.com/stores/product.asp?pid=4330&str=2&ID=165250944

Old tooth brush works ok as well as an acid brush btw.

If you're really in a bind and need the bike back together ricki tik I might see how bad the original stuff is and just put it back together undisturbed until I got the paste in the mail or parts store. That would be a good time to redo the o-rings new brake pads etc. as long as you're back in there anyway.

Some might $uggest krytox EP grea$e but I don't see any real advantage for the splines.
 
Mike - Just a note - if you can go by a Harbor Freight or Sears and pickup up 'bent' ratcheting wrench, removing the rear caliper stopper bolt will be a lot easier. I think it's a 14mm or could be 15mm - but I don't remember. Also, pick up a 5mm t-handle or socket drive 5mm for the 4 bolts on the rear fender entension. When you go to put the rear wheel back on, leave the caliper out, and lift the rear wheel up and slide the axle through it. You can then easily slide the rear wheel onto the pumpkin. And if you are careful, you can pull the axle back out, install the caliper, then reinsert the axle. The rear wheel will usually stay hanging on the pumpkin unless you bump it pretty bad. Don't forget to remove the axle bushing before to carry the wheel anywhere. Otherwise, it will fall out and you won't know it! Good luck.
 
All tools needed are included in the stock factory Honda Tool kit pouch.
(edit, no torque wrench, so you will need to learn the feel of correct tightness.)
If your kit is missing, pick one up or make one.
Might come in handy if you need to remove tires when away from home.

I try to use the stock tool kit for everything, and if something else is needed, like a tiny set of vise grips or needle nose, I toss that into pouch as well.
 
Thank you everyone, I'll probably get the full size tools anyway as I know my tools in storage don't include anything on the list except basic ratchet set. But I will try the toolkit for removal for good practice with the full size tools on standby.
 
STraycatt said:
Depending on how long it has been since the last R&R, you should also look at replacing the o-rings ... I apologize for not having the info on those handy, but someone (Like John O) will likely chime in ASAP ...

-Adam
Click to expand...

Unless I can get them before noon tomorrow, it'll have to wait until next time. I have no idea what these are, so a link to more info is appreciated.

Edit: Thanks ReSTored!
 
Mountain Mike said:
I'm not really sure whats going on in 7, I figure it means to pry off the pumpkin with something? Is any fluid going to pour out?
Click to expand...

Sometime the wheel will come out but part gets left behind...can't get the wheel off unless you pry the whole thing at same time of removal ( found out the first time i took my friend 1100 wheel off too ) there are notches to allow the tool in to pry.

read this thread; https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?69761-St1100-rear-hub&highlight=1100
 
One other thing that may be helpful is to place a piece of 2x4 under the tire. This will help relieve some tension during removal. And with a pry bar, or other suitable lever, the 2x4 can be used to lift and hold the tire/wheel into place while you do the re-assembly.
 
Mountain Mike, I see you've listed a Philips screwdriver for the removal of the rear mudflap.

My ST1100 has Allen bolts that use a 5mm key.
 
Rossi said:
Mountain Mike, I see you've listed a Philips screwdriver for the removal of the rear mudflap.

My ST1100 has Allen bolts that use a 5mm key.
Click to expand...

Just figured that out pulling it off just now =]

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
 
Mountain Mike said:
Can I get these at Home depot, or do they have to be ordered by Honda?
Click to expand...

The sizing spec is there, but I know nothing about o-rings and what various ones might be made of. Given cost of a rear end replacement, I'd spring for the OEM ones as they're less than $10 for the 3 piece set. I always order 2 sets to use one and then have 1 one hand, same with oil filters and other disp. supplies.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom