Article [11] ST1100 - Timing Belt Replacement

[adamk]

Timing Belt Replacement
(2/1/2003)

The top fairing doesn't have to be removed for the job.

Draining the radiator so it can be removed.

Radiator removed. The timing belt cover needs to come off next.

As Jeff Bertrand said, the cover can be removed with a 'little' cursing and prying without removing the clutch cover. Prying with a screw driver as shown just 'barely' allows the cover to pass between the clutch cover and the bolt seen in this picture. I'll have to Dremel the cover as Jeff recommends to make it easier next time around.

The old timing belt about to be removed.

It's a <little> hard to get the timing belt out with the clutch cover still installed, but a pair of needle nosed pliers did the trick for me freeing it from the driving pulley, (the lowest pulley shown here).

Timing belt removed. The driven pulleys on the cams moved about 1/2 of a tooth when the belt was removed.

New belt in place. You start at the driving pulley, the the right driven pulley, (the one on the left in this picture). Then to the other driven cam pulley, then around the last smooth pulley.

You can just make out the punch mark on the driven pulley lining up with the mark on the case.

I was pretty lucky and got things all lined up on the first try. The right driven
pulley shown here moved about 1/2 a tooth clockwise during the removal/install of the belt, but lined right back up when the tensioner was let loose.

The left side driven pulley all lined up. The 'up' indicator on the pulley points to the tooth with the alignment mark that should point to the mark on the case.

The manual tells you to put the retainer back on before you crank the engine over
about 4 times. This prevents you from being able to see the timing mark. I just put
a little black mark on the retainer and lined it up with the timing mark before I
tightened the bolt. This allows you to make sure the timing remains correct.

You can see the Dremel job I did to the cover , (just below the driving bolt), per
Jeff Bertrand's instructions. This made it much easier to re-install the cover.

There are some great instruction on replacing the timing belt by Martin Brunner,
(STOC# 637 PanEuro# 42), over on John Parkers web site.

Pertinent link to Mike Martin's web site. Good stuff!
​

 

[BigTom]

Re: ST1100 Timing Belt Replacement

Great Job, Adam.

And timely, too. I have 59,000 on my bike, seems timing belt is near due. Thanks for the work and time!

 

[George]

Re: ST1100 Timing Belt Replacement

Honda recommends replacing the belt at 90,000. Many have commented, even then, that the old belt still looks fine. I did STick at ~80,000, before the first WESTOC. The printing on the belt still looked new.

George - STOC 004
in Kingman, Arizona

 

[Mark]

Re: ST1100 Timing Belt Replacement

Great Job, Adam.

And timely, too. I have 59,000 on my bike, seems timing belt is near due. Thanks for the work and time!

You've got 30k more miles before it is due to be changed out. I have read of people doing 100k and still seeing a good looking belt...
Why would you do it early?

Mark

 

[BigTom]

Re: ST1100 Timing Belt Replacement

I plan to check it soon as the weather cools a bit so my 'verandah workspace' becomes habitable again. Mostly because I need to do some work on the cooling system, I'll be right there, anyway. And because of some of the 'service' work I have seen on the bike. PFO was rumored to be a Honda Service Tech. If so, that is a scary situation. Peace of mind per the belt, more than anything.

 

[tommy7]

Adam,
Thank you for taking the time to post a very informative report! I'm won't be changing my timing belt anytime soon but its nice to know how to! Thanks again, Tommy

 

[George]

Adam,
Thank you for taking the time to post a very informative report! I'm won't be changing my timing belt anytime soon but its nice to know how to! Thanks again, Tommy

Tommy, did you look at the dates on these posts? THis thread is nearly 6 years old.

All the data in here is still good, tho, so good on ya for resurrecting it.

BTW, the bike in this article is my ReSTored. Adam did all this maintenance before she had 30,000 miles, then took her out and wrecked her. I bought her from Adam as a total... I put another 110,000 on before installing her third belt. She now has nearly 170,000 and is a parts-only bike due to a cracked block. These bikes are nearly indestructible but ReSTored had a tuff life.

 

[tommy7]

Hey George,
I am owning an ST1100 for the 1st time. These articles wether new or archived are all new to me.. Hahaha
I bought a 1991 silver St1100 that runs great but needs some cleaning/buffing and cosmetic maintenance. I drove a couple hours south today to pick up a windshield (instant gratification), both the ride down and back and the look of the bike with the new shield. I must say that you people around here are NOT crazy in the least, well, concerning your appreciation of the Honda St! I have owned and ridden many a bikes in my life but never felt quite so nimble and secure when splitting lanes as I did today in traffic.. Don't know if these back have that reputation but they should if they don't! I guess you could say that I'm catching the fever... tommy

 

[George]

Yes, she's a great lane splitter (tho the mirrors might be a little low on occasion.)

Good on ya for finding a good SSMST (Shiny Silver Metallic ST.) Check your VIN with John OoSTerhuis, he's the keeper of the SSMST RegiSTry.

How many miles on her?

 

[George]

Oh, and the archived stuff here is good but probably better at st-riders.net. Adam's write up and many other such files are kept there. Ya need a STOC number to subscribe but otherwise similar to here. Tell'em I said "Hi" when ya get there.

 

[tommy7]

My bike has 53,000 miles. I am becoming more confident that there are no major issues with it the more I ride it. I will contact John OoSTerhuis and let him know the vin number.... The only thing that needs imediate attention is the fork seals. I just ordered 2 new tires, Bridgestone 023 and new brake pads and fork seals. I plan to have all fluids changed at the same time and The bike should be ready for a good ride. Its fun. Tommy

Yes, she's a great lane splitter (tho the mirrors might be a little low on occasion.)

Good on ya for finding a good SSMST (Shiny Silver Metallic ST.) Check your VIN with John OoSTerhuis, he's the keeper of the SSMST RegiSTry.

How many miles on her?

 

[Outlaws]

Great post.

Thanks

 

[romulous306]

Very informative on how to change timing belt. Maintenance schedule recommend s belt changed at 90,000 miles. My ST 1100 has only done 40,000 miles but is 10 years old. I have a Volvo V70. Belt is changed every 4 years or 48,000 miles which ever comes first. Does the ST1100 have a time expired life of the belt .

 

[Ron]

Does the ST1100 have a time expired life of the belt .

No. Some change it for an age or an unknown history reason for peace of mind. The belts are a tad on the expensive side but the cost pales in comparison to cost of a belt failure. I would say there are too many variables to determine a lifespan for the belt.

 

[romulous306]

Thanks Ron. For peace of mind I will have the belt renewed. The cost of a belt failure doesn't bear thinking about .

 

[dwalby]

Thanks Ron. For peace of mind I will have the belt renewed. The cost of a belt failure doesn't bear thinking about .

So how late was the PanEuro1100 available in Europe? A 10 year old bike would make it a 2004 model, which wasn't even available in the US.

The standard story here is even after 15-20 years the belt looks brand new, so I wouldn't be so anxious to change it out, especially if you're paying someone else to do it, which it sounds like. Its a relatively cheap repair if you do the work yourself, but not so much if you pay someone else to do it. My 16 year old belt looked practically brand new when I replaced it last fall. You are right though, if the belt fails then your engine suffers much damage.

 

[romulous306]

Sorry dwalby. My mistake . The bike in question is registered 2002 making in 12 years old.

Unfortunately I am not confident enough to do the work myself so will have to pay someone else to do it.

Thanks for your sound advice.

 

[ST1100Y]

Some change it for an age or an unknown history reason for peace of mind.

For peace of mind replace the idler- and the spanner-pulley as well... if not even the water-pump too, while already at it and in there anyway...

Bet you'd hate finding a coolant-leak just a couple of weeks after you'd replaced the t/belt... :?

YMMV though...

 

[dwalby]

For peace of mind replace the idler- and the spanner-pulley as well... if not even the water-pump too, while already at it and in there anyway...

Bet you'd hate finding a coolant-leak just a couple of weeks after you'd replaced the t/belt... :?

YMMV though...

good advice Martin, those parts are in the same area, so once you've torn into it you may as well change them too, they're 12 years old as well. If you don't replace everything in there, and have to do the job a second time yourself, its an annoying pain in the butt. If you have to pay someone else to do the job for you a second time then its even worse.

romulous306, after seeing the parts and labor cost estimate you'll understand why people don't just do this as a simple routine maintenance before its really necessary unless they can do the work themselves. Its not a trivial expense.

 

[Woonjas]

Next scheduled maintenance I'll have another go at it. First attempt failed with me stripping the head of the bolt holding the guide plate on the left hand side pulley.
Since the belt still looked ok I put everything back together and ordered a new bolt & washer - I do my maintenance at my parents' 30 minutes away, and since the ST is my primary transportation for my daily commute I always have to finish things by sunday evening