RobbieAG
Robert
I tried getting a substitute using many of those numbers (most were obsolete). The only one I could get had the "wings" on it and wouldn't clear the frame. If you can find one that works, I'd love to hear it.
ST1100 overheating
- Thread starter ak85lp
- Start date
I tried getting a substitute using many of those numbers (most were obsolete). The only one I could get had the "wings" on it and wouldn't clear the frame. If you can find one that works, I'd love to hear it.
OP
OP
ak85lp
(Paul)
Thanks for the info but too late as it's on order now 
I seem to recall the same thing when I went looking a year ago. I may just bite the bullet and go OEM, mine's not getting any younger.
The one 'ear' just rubs the frame a bit till it's twisted on past it...........not like your gonna be removing it on a regular bases...........starting with the suitcases of course
The one 'ear' just rubs the frame a bit till it's twisted on past it...........not like your gonna be removing it on a regular bases...........starting with the suitcases of course
.+1 on the overflow tube. Found my 02's bulged and cracked just as lots have described yesterday when I took the fairing apart to investigate. Trimmed off the first inch, cleaned everything up and hose-clamped it back on. Did a coolant flush while I was at it. Everything seems to be working properly - fan and thermostat. Having the same issue finding an equivalent radiator cap without the wings. I'm going to order all Honda parts, including all hoses and do a complete replacement (major surgery with getting all the tee-fitting, hoses, etc under the carbs) as my winter project on both my 1100's this winter.
Excellent option...........preventative maintenance. May be a good time to unplug, clean with deoxit or similar ALL accessable plug-ins and re-coat with dielectic grease before plugging back in
.I was having a similar problem that also included the bike dying after I came back from a short but hot run. I noticed the fan wasn't kicking on and I was having to trickle charge my battery. Once I removed body pieces I found a bulging, gunked up hose at the overflow, low fluid in the radiator, reservoir full of old sludgy water, thermostat housing pretty rough looking. Cleaned everything up, cut back hoses, flushed radiator, also changed oil (it had been a while). Despite all of this, I just ran the bike for 10-15 minutes, the temp gauge didn't get up very high, although the bike felt warm, but the fan never kicked on and when I turned the bike off and tried to start it again, it was that same dead alternator kind of sound. Thoughts?
dead alternator/low battery kind of sound
schlep1967
Bill
My thought are that you had more than one problem. It seems you have taken care of the cooling system problem. Now you need to look at the battery/charging system problem. Two different problems that should not affect each other.
but if the fan isn't kicking on, have I fixed the cooling system problem?
schlep1967
Bill
Where was the temp needle at when the fan was not running? If it was not in the top 1/3 of the gauge it was not hot enough to make the fan run. Take it for a ride and get it up to normal operating temp. Then stop and let it idle. Shouldn't take more than a few minutes for the gauge to start creeping up. I've seen some that will come on just above halfway and others that wait until 3/4s.
Indeed that's all it took. Thank you. It didn't however solve my charging system issue. Had this battery for 4-5 years and tried to keep tending to it even when away but first to check the Alternator...
Although it did take more like 20 minutes to run it but as soon as it hit 50% boom it was on and soon as it went below 50 off.
schlep1967
Bill
That is old for a battery. Take it to an autozone or equivalent and have it tested. Do check the alternator as planned. But figure on replacing that battery either way.
Better be checking that VR plug-in!....along with ALL others that easily visisble with tupperware off. By 'checking', I don't visibly either. They ALL need to be unplugged, cleaned with deoxit or similar, dabed with dielectic grease BEFORE re-plugging back together. Sounds like 'preventative maint. has NEVER been done on that bike much, and it WILL get costly in a hurry if not attended to
.Yeah, I actually had to replace the VRR about two years ago and left the old somewhat burnt out connector plug in place. Upon inspection this time around I found the red 6p connector to be burnt out in the right lower corner, looking at it. I cleaned it up and am using some Gorilla glue as protective coating but probably need to get new connectors for both the VRR and the starter relay? plug (it's the one next to the 30amp fuse.
On re-inspection, as I was writing from memory... It's the red 4p connector that's burnt out in the upper right corner. Can I order these plugs from Honda? I tried one of the links some suggested, Beaver Power, but I can't make sense of what connectors I really need...
Leaving that compromised connector prior has now become your demise today.....lesson learned.
Once those brass contacts discolor from heat, their ability to carry current FREELY is compromised
The charecteristics of the metal is changed from heat, and replacing with new is the ONLY solution. Soldering connections can, at times have the same effect, depending on application.
OP
OP
ak85lp
(Paul)
I swapped out the hose last weekend with some braided rubber fuel line and also a new OEM rad cap. Filled the rad through the cap and ran it up to temp twice and the fan kicked in both times. Then I made sure the bottle had the right amount and it's been ok. I have to get it to temp again in traffic for the real test. For mine it gets just to the temp icon in the middle and then the fan kicks in. It has been like this since day one and works fine when it does.
I could find no fault with either part but maybe something was not air tight?
Thanks for the help once again
I could find no fault with either part but maybe something was not air tight?
Thanks for the help once again