Article [11] ST1100 - Basics / Buying Guide

Does anyone know of any data for upgrading the front brakes? Calipers, discs and master cylinder? Thanks
Just went through a long process of figuring out my squishy rear brakes. I rebuilt the master and caliper, bled until the cows came home and only when I went with braided steel hoses did I get a great improvement. Since I did the entire system I also replaced the front lines. I can tell you the front and rear brakes are MUCH better now. With 21 year old rubber hoses you can expect that they are degraded. The OEM PADS work great with the upgrade.
 
I've rebuilt all hydraulics, installed ss line on the front, calipers have new seals and pistons. EBC D-ring rotors and pads. Still not as good as more current bikes. Compared to a 2015 FJR1300 I rode the ST effort is much higher to get not near the stopping power of the FJR. I would still like to find a way to graft on the brakes from an RC51 or Fireblade. I have a new Africa Twin Adventure Sport that has good brakes but it is also almost 200 pounds lighter. I love my V4 and Honda really should build a more modern version. The Gold Wing, despite what the dweebs claim, is not a proper sport tourer. 800 plus pounds and foot pegs position more akin to a cruiser. And despite the fuel economy it still does not have the fuel capacity I expect from a touring machine. So I continue my quest for stronger brakes. The ST has everything else I need. Soichiro Honda would never let this kind of neglect happen.
 
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In the North American market the '91-'96 bikes (with the exception of California emissions-compliant bikes) have high performance camshafts and, as a result, are faster than later model years.
 
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Great Article I think i now Know why my alternator is so oily. Is it Possible to freshen up the OEM alternator on a high mileage 93? It charges as it should.
 
Great Article I think i now Know why my alternator is so oily. Is it Possible to freshen up the OEM alternator on a high mileage 93? It charges as it should.
The quick answer is no.
There have been a few people that have tried to stop it from leaking, tried rebuilding, but all attempts to have done so appear to have failed.
The alternator will still charge if it’s leaking oil, but the clock is ticking, it can fail tomorrow or a month from now.
 
Great Article, I think I now know why my alternator is so oily. ... It charges as it should.
If it were mine, I would focus more on your battery's condition and your wiring;

I would have a digital multimeter always on hand and know how to use it to at least measure static battery voltage, battery charging voltage, and maybe leakage current, especially if electrical devices have been added to your stock bike, and/or if your bike has ABS/TCS;

I would examine both of the connections (the small, red plastic connector, and the large, white connector under the rectifier/voltage regulator) for those three hot, yellow wires that have to conduct the raw AC power generated by your alternator;

and I would NEVER assume that your charging system is charging okay just because your engine seems to always crank okay.


The best time (for monitoring purposes) to measure static battery voltage is after your bike has sat for a fairly long time, and before you even turn on the ignition.
(If measuring battery charging voltage, I think the manual says to first pull your headlight fuse.)

Do not hesitate to buy and use some kind of external battery charger or maintainer if there is any doubt about how good your bike's charging system is.

And do not hesitate to a least shop around now for a premium, replacement battery if there is any doubt about the age or build quality of your battery. (Pennies saved on your battery tend to later require pounds to be spent on your charging system and/or towing costs.)
 
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Well written.
A good quality battery is first on the list for this old bike along for a dash mounted volt meter
I got it running on a shop tank and a remote car battery
Any battery recomendations?
 
Well written.
A good quality battery is first on the list for this old bike along for a dash mounted volt meter
I got it running on a shop tank and a remote car battery
Any battery recomendations?
Lets make sure your charging system is working properly. with the bike running and hooked up to the current battery what is the voltage you're reading? For the 93 you should be in the range of 14.7-15.1 volts for the 28 amp alternator. If it's in the 13V range with no load your alternator is on its way out.
Yusa 14H will be a good replacement battery
 
Well written.
A good quality battery is first on the list for this old bike along for a dash mounted volt meter
I got it running on a shop tank and a remote car battery
Any battery recomendations?
I bought a Motobatt battery about a year ago for my ST11. Prior to that was a cheap battery that was still working after 5 years of almost daily use. I've used Walmart batteries in the past for cars and had good luck as well.
 
I bought a Motobatt battery about a year ago for my ST11. Prior to that was a cheap battery that was still working after 5 years of almost daily use. I've used Walmart batteries in the past for cars and had good luck as well.
I've used Motobatt batteries in all of my ST1100s and I have been very pleased with their performance.
The ST1100 'model' has a place for an additional set of terminals which is nice if you want to add a fuse block, etc.
 
I've rebuilt all hydraulics, installed ss line on the front, calipers have new seals and pistons. EBC D-ring rotors and pads. Still not as good as more current bikes. Compared to a 2015 FJR1300 I rode the ST effort is much higher to get not near the stopping power of the FJR. I would still like to find a way to graft on the brakes from an RC51 or Fireblade. I have a new Africa Twin Adventure Sport that has good brakes but it is also almost 200 pounds lighter. I love my V4 and Honda really should build a more modern version. The Gold Wing, despite what the dweebs claim, is not a proper sport tourer. 800 plus pounds and foot pegs position more akin to a cruiser. And despite the fuel economy it still does not have the fuel capacity I expect from a touring machine. So I continue my quest for stronger brakes. The ST has everything else I need. Soichiro Honda would never let this kind of neglect happen.

Have you read the thread about swapping the front master cylinder?

www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/clutch-master-cylinder-swap.167869/

There was a thread about swapping a whole front end (triple tree, forks, brakes and wheel) from another bike. Uncle Phil did one on swapping an ABSII wheel and ABSII calipers but ABSII wheels are rare to find used and expensive to buy new ($700 USD??).
 
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A good quality battery is first on the list for this old bike along with/for a dash mounted volt meter.
I got it running on a shop tank and a remote car battery
Any battery recommendations?
Let's make sure your charging system is working properly. With the bike running and hooked up to the current battery, what is the voltage you're reading? For the '93 you should be in the range of 14.7-15.1 volts for the 28 amp alternator. If it's in the 13V range with no load, your alternator is on its way out.
Yuasa 14H will be a good replacement battery.
I recommended shopping for a premium battery based on the original statement that the charging system is charging properly. But it seems the charging has not yet been checked.

A premium battery would I think be a Yuasa YTX14-BS, or Yuasa's upgrade model to that one. If going Motobatt, check that it is a replacement for at least one of those Yuasas.

Any new battery must be fully charged before installation, and the automatic battery chargers don't really do that, in my opinion. If Mr. M doesn't have the proper charger for doing that himself, I would buy locally at a shop that swears they know how to fully charge their battery before turning it over to him. That would be more important to me, in this case, than the brand or model or price of the battery. (That new battery will pay off when you go to check the charging voltage.)

I do not recommend using a remote car battery to check the battery voltage while the bike is running (and hopefully charging properly). Instead, use that fully charged, new battery, that is a proper replacement for an ST1100, for that purpose.

When you do measure that battery voltage, first pull out the 20 ampere headlight fuse. I think the spec says the voltage should be 15.0 volts maximum (to avoid burning out light bulbs and such that can't stand high voltage). I think the minimum target voltage is 14.0 volts per the manual. However, I agree with Kiltman that 14.0 is too low. I have consistently gotten readings of 14.4 or 14.5 volts for a decent, 28 ampere Hitachi alternator/generator that is stock on a '93 ST1100. (But if you get 14.7 to 15.0 volts, all the better.)

If Mr. M gets a battery charging reading lower than 14.4 volts, I think it's time to talk about his next step, which probably will not be to buy a better battery and almost certainly will NOT be to replace the rectifier/voltage regulator.


If it were me, the very first thing I would do is to unbolt the rectifier/voltage regulator black box, and then see if I can carefully remove its big, white connector so I can look for dark spots that indicate that one or all of the three yellow wires has overheated at some time in the past. Mr. M may not even be able to easily remove that connector in that case, due to melted white plastic. (But if damage is seen, one should look also for heat damage to the terminals of the rectifier/voltage regulator.)

Finally, I think that talk of a dash mounted voltmeter is premature. First get a digital multi-meter at Harbor Freight, for under ten dollars US, or at auto parts or Walmart. I used to also buy alligator clips for it from Radio Shack because clips hold the leads to the battery terminals. (And by the way, the leads need not be connected or touched to the battery terminals; they can instead be connected to the metal ends of the mounted battery cables.)
 
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Here are some general comments about Honda's ST1100 Line of motorcycles; I hope they are of use to prospective ST1100 buyers.
(These comments are organized around the key words type, time, and turf or market.)

In terms of type, Honda considers the ST1100 Line to have three types of ST models:

The ABS/TCS type is denoted ST1100A by Honda,
The Police type is denoted ST1100P, and
The standard type is denoted simply as ST1100.

So the ST1100 Line can be called the ST1100/A/P Line, or ST1100/A/P Family of motorcycles.


In terms of time, Honda effectively assigned each of the following model years to at least one ST1100/A/P model:

All years 1990 through 2003.

For example, the only model they built for 2003 was the '03 ST1100P3 police model that was built for the USA market.
(Only in the case of Australian models did Honda make their assigned model year match the year in which the model was built. For non-Australian markets, the usual pattern was to assign a model year one year greater than the year in which the ST wss built.)


In terms of turf, The ST1100/A/P Line was built for and imported through 15 markets worldwide.

Eleven of those 15 markets were European. The ST1100/A/P Line was designed and built mainly for Europeans. As two examples, the first ST1100P models built were imported only by Europe; and Europe imported about ten times as many of the first ST1100A bikes as did North America.
(Many European governments assigned their own "model year" to the STs they imported. So it is best to speak to a European in terms of the model year code of the ST because that code accurately indicates the model year assigned by Honda.)

Three of those 15 markets were North American. Those three are the Canadian market, the USA California market, and the USA 49-state market.
But those two US markets were effectively merged starting with the 2003 model year. (For example, the '03 ST1100P mentioned above was built with California, low engine emissions, but so were all '03 and later ST1300 models.) The North American markets rose in importance at the end of ST1100/A/P production; all ST1100/A/P models for Honda model years after 2000 were for either for Canada or the USA.

The fifteenth market was for the Australian Continent. It got into full swing in Honda model year 1995, when all three types of ST were imported there. Australia/New Zealand imported Police ST1100Ps for model years 1995, 1996, and 2000 whereas North Americans did not get their only ST1100P model until 2003. In about half of Australia's ten States, the Government assigns a "model year" that can differ from Honda's model year. So as is the case with Europeans, it is best to talk to an Aussie in terms of model year code, rather than model year. (For example, I can restate what I said above by saying that the Australian market got into full swing when it imported their three S models, where S is the year code for 1995.)



Now, how can that be useful when buying an ST1100/A/P?

Type, time, and turf can all be important when buying a used ST1100.
When buying an ST1100/A/P, I look first at model type, especially to distinguish an ST1100A from a non-ABS ST1100/P. The presence of ABS will at least affect the price.

Then I check model year and year code to sort bikes into four time groups:
pre-1995 models;
1995 S models;
1996 T models; and for completeness,
post-1996 models.
By then, if the bike is an ST1100A, I will have made the important distinction between a pre-1996 ABS I model and a post-1995 ABS II model. The brakes on those two models are completely different, in my opinion. (More on that later.) The first two time groups are there because all ST models received numerous updates for 1995, S year. And all models received an updated charging/power system for 1996, the T year. The ABS II models received an updated control module for 1997; the non-ABS may have received new carburetors and/or camshafts for 1997. I'm not sure whether it is important to make a distinction between 1996 and post-1996.

Finally, the turf, or the importing market, distinguishes American ST1100 models from Canadian/Australian ST1100 models, and from ST1100 Pan European models. But those distinctions are usually relatively unimportant (because they only sorts out things like headlight unit, original paint color, cam shafts/timing, engine anti-smog equipment, and carburetor jets, or extra carburetor ports and hoses that, again, reduce engine emissions).

After looking at all three of those aspects, I feel that, as a buyer, I at least know what components were used to build the ST1100/A/P at hand (except in the case of a 1991 USA ST1100, which can require slightly more checking).
 
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Lets make sure your charging system is working properly. with the bike running and hooked up to the current battery what is the voltage you're reading? For the 93 you should be in the range of 14.7-15.1 volts for the 28 amp alternator. If it's in the 13V range with no load your alternator is on its way out.
Yusa 14H will be a good replacement battery
I checked the charging system as recommended. It looks to be good over 14.5 with the head lamp fuse pulled. The connectors are fine as well
Cleaned the outside of the oily 28 amp alt. It has been doing a fine job of lubricating the ***** lever pivot as well as charging the Battery. Installed a new MotoBat. For now I plan to run it and monitor the oil loss.
 
I checked the charging system as recommended. It looks to be good over 14.5 with the head lamp fuse pulled. The connectors are fine as well
Cleaned the outside of the oily 28 amp alt. It has been doing a fine job of lubricating the excrement lever pivot as well as charging the Battery. Installed a new MotoBat. For now I plan to run it and monitor the oil loss.
I meant shift lever!
 
I checked the charging system as recommended. It looks to be good over 14.5 with the head lamp fuse pulled. The connectors are fine as well
Cleaned the outside of the oily 28 amp alt. It has been doing a fine job of lubricating the excrement lever pivot as well as charging the Battery. Installed a new MotoBat. For now I plan to run it and monitor the oil loss.
Good. FYI there are only 10 adapter plate’s available for the 40 amp alternator conversion
Adapter plate
 
Mr. M,
I recommend you measure the battery voltage right before you even turn on the ignition. Shoot for 11.8 volts or higher because the battery is new and fully charged, right? If you get that voltage consistently, it gives you a second way to check that the battery is getting charged during every ride.

You may want to get some short wiring that connects to the battery and comes out of the plastic side panel, so that you can measure voltage with that panel installed.

If you shop for a dash mounted volt meter, try to get one that can show you the battery voltage with the ignition off.

If and when you find that voltage down around 12.65 or lower, you will help your alternator if you charge the battery with an external charger before you crank the engine.

The key idea is that adding oil and buying a voltmeter and charger is cheaper than replacing the alternator.

By the way, did you ever tell us the "high" mileage on your odometer?

And you know there are three repair manuals available for your ST1100, right?
 
Mr. M,
I recommend you measure the battery voltage right before you even turn on the ignition. Shoot for 11.8 volts or higher because the battery is new and fully charged, right? If you get that voltage consistently, it gives you a second way to check that the battery is getting charged during every ride.

You may want to get some short wiring that connects to the battery and comes out of the plastic side panel, so that you can measure voltage with that panel installed.

If you shop for a dash mounted volt meter, try to get one that can show you the battery voltage with the ignition off.

If and when you find that voltage down around 12.65 or lower, you will help your alternator if you charge the battery with an external charger before you crank the engine.

The key idea is that adding oil and buying a voltmeter and charger is cheaper than replacing the alternator.

By the way, did you ever tell us the "high" mileage on your odometer?

And you know there are three repair manuals available for your ST1100, right?
Thank's Dave,
My 93 ST has 97,000 on it and I have yet to ride it. As a matter of fact I do not know for sure what model it is. I believe it is the 49 state model based on the frame # JH2SC2603PM****** . From what I have read the 0 indicates a 49 state model. Am I right? I have the Hayes and Factory service manuals. I find this web site most helpful in filling the gaps with practical knowledge. I do plan on following your suggestion of adding a pig tail from the battery through the plastic for diagnostics, charging, and accessories. My next action item is changing the Fork OIL. Anny recommendations would be appreciated.
 
I've always been under the impression that it was: Europe: 1990-2001, USA: 1991-2002

In terms of Honda model years (which, outside of North America, are best spoken of in terms of year codes, not years, because "model year" is often ambiguous):

Europe: 1990 to 2000 (Paul is correct.)
USA: 1991 thru 2003 (with only a police model in 2003)
Canada: 1990 thru 2002
North America overall: 1990 thru 2002 plus for 2003, a USA police model.

In terms of calendar years, or sales years, the same as above except:

Europe: Some later models were sold in calendar years later than 2000; their Honda model year was not greater than 2000, but their government assigned model year was 2001 or later.

USA: 1990 (instead of 1991) thru 2003, with some 2003 police models quite possibly unsold in 2003, to be sold in later years.
Years Available: Europe: 1990-2000, North America: 1990-2002, police versions available through 2003. ABS/Traction control was an option for all model years.
I would restate it as
... North America: 1990 -2002 plus for 2003, only a USA police model.

ABS/Traction control models were available to all North Americans for the eleven model years 1992 thru 2002.

Police models for North America consisted of only one, a 2003 USA model.
 
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