- Joined
- Dec 3, 2004
- Messages
- 263
- Location
- South Western Illinois
- Bike
- S10, R1250GS, DL650
- 2024 Miles
- 026831
I owned the ST1100 and ST1300.....the ST1300 has more leg room and better ergos for the tall, long legged person like me.
Should I buy an ST1100 or ST1300?
- Thread starter Horsehead
- Start date
Bmacleod
Site Supporter
I dont think you can go wrong with either. Read the responses you get here and decipher the differences between the 2 and do a pro/con list. Whats more important is to ascertain what the sticking points are, maintenance and problem/issue-wise. With that knowledge, go find the one that ticks most or all of the boxes for you. These bikes are not expensive these days but the wrong one can cost a fortune. Priority #1 should be getting the best conditioned/maintained bike for the money. You cant go wrong with either but you can certainly go wrong with either one, if you get my drift
ToddC
Site Supporter
That is an excellent suggestion....my trio from a couple years ago.
First off... welcome from WA STate!!
Second, is age. Buy the 1300
T
Last edited:
sirbike
Site Supporter
Get the ST1300.
Where did you say the ST1100 is?
Where did you say the ST1100 is?
Probably 1300 because it would be easier to get the windshield where you need it.
Get ABS.
You will still probably need a better seat (I like Russell) and bar risers (I like Helibars). That said, I had no carb problems with my 1100.
Get ABS.
You will still probably need a better seat (I like Russell) and bar risers (I like Helibars). That said, I had no carb problems with my 1100.
rwthomas1
Site Supporter
I would say it depends on how long you plan on owning the machine. Yes, the 1300 is arguably a better machine. But it is an order of magnitude more complex. Over time, that complexity will be more difficult to maintain. This is a fact.
The folks that are leary of using a 25yr old machine for long distance riding haven't properly maintained it. There is nothing particularly special about the 1100. It's a pretty simple machine, and all the "gotchas" are well known, documented, and fixable. I keep hearing about "parts availability " issues with the 1100. Yes, if you expect every single, nut, bolt, screw, etc. to be in stock at the local Honda dealer, that ain't the case. But there are plenty of used parts availability from literally all over the planet. Entire parts bikes can be had for a few hundred dollars. And then there is The aftermarket. The availability issue is a myth.
If you are concerned about dealership service, neither of these are for you. You said you are very mechanically inclined, so I doubt this is an issue.
If I got a good price, I'd own any of them. But I do believe the post '96, non-ABS, ST1100 to be the best with regard to simplicity, durability, etc. But there are numerous 1100 and 1300's with 2-300K on the odo, so this is really splitting hairs.
Buy the best maintained/lowest priced you can find and ride!
RT
The folks that are leary of using a 25yr old machine for long distance riding haven't properly maintained it. There is nothing particularly special about the 1100. It's a pretty simple machine, and all the "gotchas" are well known, documented, and fixable. I keep hearing about "parts availability " issues with the 1100. Yes, if you expect every single, nut, bolt, screw, etc. to be in stock at the local Honda dealer, that ain't the case. But there are plenty of used parts availability from literally all over the planet. Entire parts bikes can be had for a few hundred dollars. And then there is The aftermarket. The availability issue is a myth.
If you are concerned about dealership service, neither of these are for you. You said you are very mechanically inclined, so I doubt this is an issue.
If I got a good price, I'd own any of them. But I do believe the post '96, non-ABS, ST1100 to be the best with regard to simplicity, durability, etc. But there are numerous 1100 and 1300's with 2-300K on the odo, so this is really splitting hairs.
Buy the best maintained/lowest priced you can find and ride!
RT
ST1100Y
Site Supporter
Alright, I just dug out my ST1300 test ride report from 2004 and translated it...
Here it goes <flame suit on
>:
First impression: where is the vehicle please?
If you stand next to it, it actually seems relatively puny despite the TC and suitcase.
If you sit on it, you have far less fairing in front of you than on the 1100; no wonder that they have problems with attaching accessories, where to put them?
From above / behind the wide main tank looks downright clumsy, the 1100 comes across slimmer, longer-stretched.
Ergonomically, I've already had problems with the clutch and brake armature, I would have to turn both down further,
but it doesn't work on the handlebars, so both wrists are bent a little upwards, and it soon becomes uncomfortable, especially on the clutch hand.
Seat:
set on the highest notch it really pisses me off in the truest sense of the word: it squeezes your balls...
set it lower later on, not much difference...
Panorama of the rearview mirrors takes some getting used to, these slit eyes are not really in the 16: 9 format.
No light switch! hardwired, ignition on and the Christmas tree is up, once ign is OFF, no position light nothing.
Nor is there a PASS switch, no longer a standard Honda switch pods...
Foot pegs: somehow the distance between driver and passenger pegs seems very small, my pillion will probably get stepped on her toes quite often...
Really screwed up is the accessibility of the side stand: if it is down, the driver's peg is in the way to fold up; if it is up, the heel of my size 13 boots always
hits main stand and side stand at the same time, and to fully unfold the side stand, the driver's peg is in the way again; badly sorted there....
I can't yet find what should be so extraordinarily better about the gear-box; ok, shift travel a bit shorter, the lever is too high for me, the gear box is cluncky
in comparison how pleasantly and easily the gears slide into on my 1100...
The steering is somehow nervous, no resistance, the vehicle nervous, no way of just cruising casually with the right hand on the handle is not, gets all over the lane ...
Feedback from the steering is also strange, first corner, the moped constantly tries to straighten up, like that there is something wrong with the tire pressure;
Fuel gauge faulty: when driving away it flashes on reserve, shows ~ 40 remaining kilometers, but I was able to fill up just 19.8ltr ...
filled to the brim, but the clock is still missing the last bar on full ...
Refueling is really tedious, can't just hang it in, fix the trigger and you do something else, the nozzle doesn't fit in because the tank bottom is 4cm below the opening,
so you'll soon suffer a cramp holding the tap there...
I drove through the city, practicing braking and clutching, testing handling. Tire pressure now ok, hence the typically hard rolling behavior of radial tires.
Steering still somehow indirect, in corners constantly the feeling of slipping over the front wheel ...
Generally sensitive to longitudinal grooves, crossing whitelines, casting compound... by no means as unimpressed and steady as the 1100, have the feeling
that in particular the rear tire follows an edge of a white-line for quite a while before it finally goes over it....
Noise from the engine is just terrible, not only this constant dentist's drill, but also the eternal rattling and vibration when accelerating after switching gears,
bounces really viciously right into the seat. Let's see if it's up to me (throttle grip) and that it will continue tomorrow and the day after tomorrow.
Brake already very spongy, zero feedback, you grip like in foam rubber, first nothing happens, you grip harder and suddenly it claws into the asphalt,
no advance warning, no defined pressure point (note: I drive non ABS-ST , there is pressure point like hard rubber block, grip like directly on the brake pad,
very comfortable to dose).
Sure: the deceleration is there, delayed however...
Same on the clutch, always the same pressure from front to back on the lever, no signs of a gripping point; promptly stalled it twice (has not happened to me in a long time)
The heat distribution is funny (no side deflectors installed): you can't feel anything at the intersection (but you can hear the fan running all the time, engine suffocating under the fairing),
not much to sense while riding slowly; but when you hit like 60kph very hot air from the sides suddenly hits your calves and lower legs.
Another impression: they don't see me !!
No $h!t, I didn't have so many idiots running a stop sign or exiting from parking spaces right in front of me then on that 1300; even pedestrians just ran quite into me
I guess that the stance and especially the headlight of the 1100 gives a more distinctive, brighter profile and you are therefore better noticed.
Horn works in any case, used it several times, but since they'd omitted the PASS button no other signalling avail...
Parking is easy (apart from fiddling with the side stand), it actually feels a lot lighter than the 1100.
The one-hand operation of the case locks / lids is not that bad, if only the cylinder and lock wouldn't jam so terribly;
The key barely goes in, the lock sticks so hard I'm afraid I might break the key ...
Next day with pillion aboard:
I don't need a handlebar riser, for me it would have to be further forward and lower, as I have now slightly bend elbows with pillion behind, which is pretty inconvenient,
to absorb the/her weight when braking is also very uncomfortable; I prefer to have fully stretched arms, more direct contact with the vehicle.
The pillion also complains about the ergonomics:
Although the sternum is in contact with my back, the usual contact between your knees and hands and my thighs just doesn't work out; giving her insufficient
information about my movements while driving / maneuvering, and she doesn't see past my helmet, unless she tilts her head until her ear is on her shoulder
(which of course, it doesn't work with a helmet and shoulder protectors ...), she feels generally more cramped in than on the 1100 (so do I, for the above reasons ...)
Furthermore, she has a problem with pegs/panniers, the case tips protrude so far forward that her calves are pressed against and she cannot put her feet properly on
the pegs as usual, which means that she can not support herself properly when accelerating / starting / braking and always has the feeling that she is now thrown down behind.
Somehow the position of the feet does not suit her at all, her toes fall asleep very quickly, we took several breaks, changed our sitting positions, but stayed that way until we returned home.
What are these aluminum ears behind the pillion pegs used for, with the best will in the world she can't reach them with her heels ... maybe when the panniers are off? But who does that...
She also complains heavily about the rear seat rim + carrier stay pressing at her coccyx, not happy... seems the 1300 offers a lot less space...
Instrumentation:
for some reason I have slight problems reading this speedometer, it's a bit confusing.
The digital display would be better in multi-colored gradation, clearer, faster and easier to identify.
Also is the glass way too reflective, most of the time I only see a glaring, gray surface as the sky reflects in it... but can't decipher and instruments... kinda dangerous IMHO...
The indicator controls and other warning lights are as well simply hidden away from me... obviously a bike made for dwarfs rather...
The fuel gauge definitely has a problem, with only 100km traveled a reading of 1/2 simply cannot be right! Switching to reserve with ~ 70km remaining range at 270km also
seemed a bit too pessimistic to me, when the remaining range of ~ 50km at 300km was displayed on the trip-meter, I began to ponder where the advantages of EFI should be,
because I had certainly not raced the ST1300... so why is she guzzling like that?
Mirrors:
So with a pillion, any view to the rear has suddenly vanished, you just can't see another motorcycle behind you anymore (that you lose it again later is another story ...)
I also find the clutch and brake levers not being anodized quite annoying, that shiny aluminum always sparkles around in the mirrors, simply irritating.
And that the mirrors even start to vibrate from 4,000rpm upward, fully hazing the view, astonishes me in that price category ...
Windscreen:
Sorry folks, I've tried a few things, set high it's obstructing the view, set low I've full draft on my helmet causing the visor to vibe distorting my sight... not happy ...
There is also much more fluttering around the jacket sleeves.
The passenger also reports that she's experiencing way more buffeting then she is used to...
Engine:
So the internal whistling with this this hard, astmatic rattling when accelerating make me nauseated; the first sounds like a dental tool all the time, the second like when
someone gives full throttle on a KTM thumper...
In addition, it vibrates very hard right into the seat (which is even more uncomfortable because of the above-mentioned bad pressure point to the crotch);
Of course, I cannot judge whether the demonstrator's engine has not already been abused, or is simply badly adjusted...
The thing has pull, it zooms away really well when passing, one can theoretically jump around like a racing bike.
The clatter and rattle on the other hand, as well as the vibrations spoil the fun of opening her up to let her rip, its just tiresome...
No one gets a touring/travelling vehicle to then have to listen to engine noises...
Load changes are harsh however... that EFI is defenitely not my thing...
The engine of the 1100 is notorious for its unspectacular performance, but I find this demo bike disappointing, I had somehow expected more...
Transmission:
Shifting is ok, just required way too often, IMO are the gears too short, the constant hacking 2.-3.-2. when cornering it is soon annoying (also due to the engine noise)...
Where I drive sporty in 2nd & 3rd on the 1100, its 3rd & 4th on the 1300 to have a more smooth pace (whilst lugging the engine though...)
Steering:
It is essential to differentiate to what extent the tires play along here, the steering seems to me to be very indirect, spongy, just can't find a line, I get no feedback from the road
or about my leaning angle, I just can't seem to get a nice ideal curve line with the skittish behavior and handling of the 1300... always have the feeling it is under-steering, sliding
over the front tire, even with only a slight lean angle...
Even on a straight piece, it constantly wiggles and dances in the front, even when slowing at traffic lights, you suddenly wiggle the handlebars to stay straight, an effect that
I don't know, I'm not used to on the 1100, it just slows and stops with zero tugging on the handlebars, steady as she goes captain ...
Of course is the 1300 is maneuverable, hardly requiring steering forces, short wheelbase and steep steering head are definitely noticeable, you can throw it around corners
as if there was nothing (and immediately loose the VFR that believed it can hide behind the taillight and in the blind corners caused my pillion's knees...), with the engine power
the thing is moving properly, leaned over well and boots scrap quickly (also because of the reduced ground clearance though...), but due the lack of precision in steering,
the lack of contact with the road surface,the fun of active driving gets spoiled, the cornering is somehow slack and the constant dancing around triggers strong knee to tank pressure
reflexes, something that I never have on the 1100...
If you line up behind the car at like 140kph after overtaking the one behind it, the air drag makes it very unstable and shaky, probably the price for the lower steering forces,
aerodynamic issues, etc...
Suspension:
hmm, you have to know that I have Wilbers in my 1100, so already firmer than OEM, but the 1300 is simply a pothole detector, the low self-damping of radial tires is one thing,
but in combination of the seat pressing in the crotch, it is very uncomfortable (if you then have to pee, the last 10km sneaking home got kinda painful ...),
the suspension of the 1100 swallows a lot more and still offers much more direct contact with the road , actually a paradox.
Braking:
After several "turtle kisses" I switched to using the footbrake as a main brake, the handbrake only as an "emergency anchor", the front brake always grips sudden and very hard;
Interestingly, it doesn't always have the same braking power: reach in before the left turn and have to push again that it decelerates appropriately, before the next right turn it
then suddenly bits you like I was in panic braking... never experienced such variations on the non-ABS or ABS-II/CBS ST1100 though...
So it could also be a lack of maintenance, badly vented, old oil inside or the like, it's a dealer's demonstration/rental probably not cared en detail...
Drive-train
there are even rougher noises from the drive, when coasting it rattles so hard there that it vibrates through to the seat; do not think that this is normal...
Well, guess I didn't pull out the checkbook, didn't I?
Here it goes <flame suit on
>:First impression: where is the vehicle please?
If you stand next to it, it actually seems relatively puny despite the TC and suitcase.
If you sit on it, you have far less fairing in front of you than on the 1100; no wonder that they have problems with attaching accessories, where to put them?
From above / behind the wide main tank looks downright clumsy, the 1100 comes across slimmer, longer-stretched.
Ergonomically, I've already had problems with the clutch and brake armature, I would have to turn both down further,
but it doesn't work on the handlebars, so both wrists are bent a little upwards, and it soon becomes uncomfortable, especially on the clutch hand.
Seat:
set on the highest notch it really pisses me off in the truest sense of the word: it squeezes your balls...
set it lower later on, not much difference...
Panorama of the rearview mirrors takes some getting used to, these slit eyes are not really in the 16: 9 format.
No light switch! hardwired, ignition on and the Christmas tree is up, once ign is OFF, no position light nothing.
Nor is there a PASS switch, no longer a standard Honda switch pods...
Foot pegs: somehow the distance between driver and passenger pegs seems very small, my pillion will probably get stepped on her toes quite often...
Really screwed up is the accessibility of the side stand: if it is down, the driver's peg is in the way to fold up; if it is up, the heel of my size 13 boots always
hits main stand and side stand at the same time, and to fully unfold the side stand, the driver's peg is in the way again; badly sorted there....
I can't yet find what should be so extraordinarily better about the gear-box; ok, shift travel a bit shorter, the lever is too high for me, the gear box is cluncky
in comparison how pleasantly and easily the gears slide into on my 1100...
The steering is somehow nervous, no resistance, the vehicle nervous, no way of just cruising casually with the right hand on the handle is not, gets all over the lane ...
Feedback from the steering is also strange, first corner, the moped constantly tries to straighten up, like that there is something wrong with the tire pressure;
Fuel gauge faulty: when driving away it flashes on reserve, shows ~ 40 remaining kilometers, but I was able to fill up just 19.8ltr ...
filled to the brim, but the clock is still missing the last bar on full ...
Refueling is really tedious, can't just hang it in, fix the trigger and you do something else, the nozzle doesn't fit in because the tank bottom is 4cm below the opening,
so you'll soon suffer a cramp holding the tap there...
I drove through the city, practicing braking and clutching, testing handling. Tire pressure now ok, hence the typically hard rolling behavior of radial tires.
Steering still somehow indirect, in corners constantly the feeling of slipping over the front wheel ...
Generally sensitive to longitudinal grooves, crossing whitelines, casting compound... by no means as unimpressed and steady as the 1100, have the feeling
that in particular the rear tire follows an edge of a white-line for quite a while before it finally goes over it....
Noise from the engine is just terrible, not only this constant dentist's drill, but also the eternal rattling and vibration when accelerating after switching gears,
bounces really viciously right into the seat. Let's see if it's up to me (throttle grip) and that it will continue tomorrow and the day after tomorrow.
Brake already very spongy, zero feedback, you grip like in foam rubber, first nothing happens, you grip harder and suddenly it claws into the asphalt,
no advance warning, no defined pressure point (note: I drive non ABS-ST , there is pressure point like hard rubber block, grip like directly on the brake pad,
very comfortable to dose).
Sure: the deceleration is there, delayed however...
Same on the clutch, always the same pressure from front to back on the lever, no signs of a gripping point; promptly stalled it twice (has not happened to me in a long time)
The heat distribution is funny (no side deflectors installed): you can't feel anything at the intersection (but you can hear the fan running all the time, engine suffocating under the fairing),
not much to sense while riding slowly; but when you hit like 60kph very hot air from the sides suddenly hits your calves and lower legs.
Another impression: they don't see me !!
No $h!t, I didn't have so many idiots running a stop sign or exiting from parking spaces right in front of me then on that 1300; even pedestrians just ran quite into me
I guess that the stance and especially the headlight of the 1100 gives a more distinctive, brighter profile and you are therefore better noticed.
Horn works in any case, used it several times, but since they'd omitted the PASS button no other signalling avail...
Parking is easy (apart from fiddling with the side stand), it actually feels a lot lighter than the 1100.
The one-hand operation of the case locks / lids is not that bad, if only the cylinder and lock wouldn't jam so terribly;
The key barely goes in, the lock sticks so hard I'm afraid I might break the key ...
Next day with pillion aboard:
I don't need a handlebar riser, for me it would have to be further forward and lower, as I have now slightly bend elbows with pillion behind, which is pretty inconvenient,
to absorb the/her weight when braking is also very uncomfortable; I prefer to have fully stretched arms, more direct contact with the vehicle.
The pillion also complains about the ergonomics:
Although the sternum is in contact with my back, the usual contact between your knees and hands and my thighs just doesn't work out; giving her insufficient
information about my movements while driving / maneuvering, and she doesn't see past my helmet, unless she tilts her head until her ear is on her shoulder
(which of course, it doesn't work with a helmet and shoulder protectors ...), she feels generally more cramped in than on the 1100 (so do I, for the above reasons ...)
Furthermore, she has a problem with pegs/panniers, the case tips protrude so far forward that her calves are pressed against and she cannot put her feet properly on
the pegs as usual, which means that she can not support herself properly when accelerating / starting / braking and always has the feeling that she is now thrown down behind.
Somehow the position of the feet does not suit her at all, her toes fall asleep very quickly, we took several breaks, changed our sitting positions, but stayed that way until we returned home.
What are these aluminum ears behind the pillion pegs used for, with the best will in the world she can't reach them with her heels ... maybe when the panniers are off? But who does that...
She also complains heavily about the rear seat rim + carrier stay pressing at her coccyx, not happy... seems the 1300 offers a lot less space...
Instrumentation:
for some reason I have slight problems reading this speedometer, it's a bit confusing.
The digital display would be better in multi-colored gradation, clearer, faster and easier to identify.
Also is the glass way too reflective, most of the time I only see a glaring, gray surface as the sky reflects in it... but can't decipher and instruments... kinda dangerous IMHO...
The indicator controls and other warning lights are as well simply hidden away from me... obviously a bike made for dwarfs rather...
The fuel gauge definitely has a problem, with only 100km traveled a reading of 1/2 simply cannot be right! Switching to reserve with ~ 70km remaining range at 270km also
seemed a bit too pessimistic to me, when the remaining range of ~ 50km at 300km was displayed on the trip-meter, I began to ponder where the advantages of EFI should be,
because I had certainly not raced the ST1300... so why is she guzzling like that?
Mirrors:
So with a pillion, any view to the rear has suddenly vanished, you just can't see another motorcycle behind you anymore (that you lose it again later is another story
...)I also find the clutch and brake levers not being anodized quite annoying, that shiny aluminum always sparkles around in the mirrors, simply irritating.
And that the mirrors even start to vibrate from 4,000rpm upward, fully hazing the view, astonishes me in that price category ...
Windscreen:
Sorry folks, I've tried a few things, set high it's obstructing the view, set low I've full draft on my helmet causing the visor to vibe distorting my sight... not happy ...
There is also much more fluttering around the jacket sleeves.
The passenger also reports that she's experiencing way more buffeting then she is used to...
Engine:
So the internal whistling with this this hard, astmatic rattling when accelerating make me nauseated; the first sounds like a dental tool all the time, the second like when
someone gives full throttle on a KTM thumper...
In addition, it vibrates very hard right into the seat (which is even more uncomfortable because of the above-mentioned bad pressure point to the crotch);
Of course, I cannot judge whether the demonstrator's engine has not already been abused, or is simply badly adjusted...
The thing has pull, it zooms away really well when passing, one can theoretically jump around like a racing bike.
The clatter and rattle on the other hand, as well as the vibrations spoil the fun of opening her up to let her rip, its just tiresome...
No one gets a touring/travelling vehicle to then have to listen to engine noises...
Load changes are harsh however... that EFI is defenitely not my thing...
The engine of the 1100 is notorious for its unspectacular performance, but I find this demo bike disappointing, I had somehow expected more...
Transmission:
Shifting is ok, just required way too often, IMO are the gears too short, the constant hacking 2.-3.-2. when cornering it is soon annoying (also due to the engine noise)...
Where I drive sporty in 2nd & 3rd on the 1100, its 3rd & 4th on the 1300 to have a more smooth pace (whilst lugging the engine though...)
Steering:
It is essential to differentiate to what extent the tires play along here, the steering seems to me to be very indirect, spongy, just can't find a line, I get no feedback from the road
or about my leaning angle, I just can't seem to get a nice ideal curve line with the skittish behavior and handling of the 1300... always have the feeling it is under-steering, sliding
over the front tire, even with only a slight lean angle...
Even on a straight piece, it constantly wiggles and dances in the front, even when slowing at traffic lights, you suddenly wiggle the handlebars to stay straight, an effect that
I don't know, I'm not used to on the 1100, it just slows and stops with zero tugging on the handlebars, steady as she goes captain ...
Of course is the 1300 is maneuverable, hardly requiring steering forces, short wheelbase and steep steering head are definitely noticeable, you can throw it around corners
as if there was nothing (and immediately loose the VFR that believed it can hide behind the taillight and in the blind corners caused my pillion's knees...), with the engine power
the thing is moving properly, leaned over well and boots scrap quickly (also because of the reduced ground clearance though...), but due the lack of precision in steering,
the lack of contact with the road surface,the fun of active driving gets spoiled, the cornering is somehow slack and the constant dancing around triggers strong knee to tank pressure
reflexes, something that I never have on the 1100...
If you line up behind the car at like 140kph after overtaking the one behind it, the air drag makes it very unstable and shaky, probably the price for the lower steering forces,
aerodynamic issues, etc...
Suspension:
hmm, you have to know that I have Wilbers in my 1100, so already firmer than OEM, but the 1300 is simply a pothole detector, the low self-damping of radial tires is one thing,
but in combination of the seat pressing in the crotch, it is very uncomfortable (if you then have to pee, the last 10km sneaking home got kinda painful ...),
the suspension of the 1100 swallows a lot more and still offers much more direct contact with the road , actually a paradox.
Braking:
After several "turtle kisses" I switched to using the footbrake as a main brake, the handbrake only as an "emergency anchor", the front brake always grips sudden and very hard;
Interestingly, it doesn't always have the same braking power: reach in before the left turn and have to push again that it decelerates appropriately, before the next right turn it
then suddenly bits you like I was in panic braking... never experienced such variations on the non-ABS or ABS-II/CBS ST1100 though...
So it could also be a lack of maintenance, badly vented, old oil inside or the like, it's a dealer's demonstration/rental probably not cared en detail...
Drive-train
there are even rougher noises from the drive, when coasting it rattles so hard there that it vibrates through to the seat; do not think that this is normal...
Well, guess I didn't pull out the checkbook, didn't I?
Last edited:
OP
OP
Horsehead
Slow Pokin' the Southeast
First of all... WOW. Y'all are awesome. This is why I love forums.
When I was 16 I bought a 1976 Toyota Landcruiser FJ40 that didn't run and with help from a Landcruiser forum and all the knowledge / help of the members got it completely as I wanted it to be and drove it for a decade. I can tell that I've tapped into the same sort of folks here!
So, I haven't even read everyone's replies yet, but just scanning, the consensus I'm seeing is if you get a ST1100, make sure it's post-1996 and ideally ABS model. And if you're going to get an ST1300, a 2008 or newer is ideal for the remapped ECU.
About an hour west of me there is a 2001 ST1100. I have zoomed in on the pictures and the calipers only have the 2 pistons, so I'm guessing that's a non ABS model. He's asking $3300, but it only has 14K miles on it. He says he bought it from a collector 5 years ago and at the time it only had about 5k miles on it. He also said he didn't ride it much in 2020, but tries to put a few miles on it every month just to keep it in good working order. My guess is it will at minimum need new tires. So is non-ABS a deal breaker? Or is such a low mileage bike for $3K (I could talk him down a few hundred bucks) worth it?
There are 2 somewhat local ST1300s, but they're an '03 and an '04. For $4k there is one about 3 hours south of me. It's a 2008 with right around 50K miles. I believe the owner is only selling it because he just got a Goldwing. He hasn't answered my messages, so it may have already sold. But if not, it's been listed for a while and he may come off the price a little bit too.
Alright, Now I'm going to go back and read carefully through everyone's responses! Thanks again!
When I was 16 I bought a 1976 Toyota Landcruiser FJ40 that didn't run and with help from a Landcruiser forum and all the knowledge / help of the members got it completely as I wanted it to be and drove it for a decade. I can tell that I've tapped into the same sort of folks here!
So, I haven't even read everyone's replies yet, but just scanning, the consensus I'm seeing is if you get a ST1100, make sure it's post-1996 and ideally ABS model. And if you're going to get an ST1300, a 2008 or newer is ideal for the remapped ECU.
About an hour west of me there is a 2001 ST1100. I have zoomed in on the pictures and the calipers only have the 2 pistons, so I'm guessing that's a non ABS model. He's asking $3300, but it only has 14K miles on it. He says he bought it from a collector 5 years ago and at the time it only had about 5k miles on it. He also said he didn't ride it much in 2020, but tries to put a few miles on it every month just to keep it in good working order. My guess is it will at minimum need new tires. So is non-ABS a deal breaker? Or is such a low mileage bike for $3K (I could talk him down a few hundred bucks) worth it?
There are 2 somewhat local ST1300s, but they're an '03 and an '04. For $4k there is one about 3 hours south of me. It's a 2008 with right around 50K miles. I believe the owner is only selling it because he just got a Goldwing. He hasn't answered my messages, so it may have already sold. But if not, it's been listed for a while and he may come off the price a little bit too.
Alright, Now I'm going to go back and read carefully through everyone's responses! Thanks again!
Styles
2000 Non-ABS
I multiplied, divided, and inverted my own decision between Sport and Touring. I've not, as you can see, looked back.
You really can't go wrong with either. Though I prefer the ST1100. The pro's for the ST1100 is the bike is easier to work on and much simpler. The cons would be they are getting a little long in the tooth. But what that being said I have not had trouble getting parts. The ST1300 well a few not all have had the bike seem to be much warmer and uncomfortable to ride due to the heat. Plus to work on the ST1300 would be more involved with ABS, fuel injection, electric windshield, linked brakes etc, The Con going for the 1300 would be it's a relatively newer machine but even they have been out of production for almost a decade. I've owned my ST1100 since new and that was 21 years ago. Best bike on the planet imho. About the abs thing....mine doesn't have it and it brakes very well to me so I would not dismiss one because it did not have abs.
rwthomas1
Site Supporter
I prefer the non-ABS model. I understand the value of ABS. I just don't think it justifies the increase in complexity. The ABS systems are fairly robust and trouble free. Until they aren't. Sensors, pumps, valves, hoses, switches, wiring, etc. all break down over time. Cars are mass produced and parts, used or new are widely available. With the exception of ABS parts. Whilst I have no issue saying parts for the 1100 are available, the first thing that will be hard to find is ABS parts. It's that way in the automotive world, the lower production numbers of the motorcycle world will surely ensure this. That said, an ABS bike could be converted to non-ABS easy enough. But for sure, know what you are getting into, and the pitfalls.
RT
"... I have zoomed in on the pictures and the calipers only have the 2 pistons, so I'm guessing that's a non ABS model. ..."
Yes, the 96-02 ABS has 3 pistons. The ABS has better brakes due to the 3 pistons and the pads are more aggressive.
The 96-03 have 40 amp air cooled alternators vs. 28 amp oil cooled early models.
An easy way to spot the 96+ ABS models is to look at the front fender area. The reflector is lower on the fork. The fender has 2 "ears" as a partial fork protector. Non-ABS has a silver headed screw holding the fender in place. ABS has a grey piece above the caliper. The caliper is blackish compared to the silvery non-ABS.
Yes, the 96-02 ABS has 3 pistons. The ABS has better brakes due to the 3 pistons and the pads are more aggressive.
The 96-03 have 40 amp air cooled alternators vs. 28 amp oil cooled early models.
An easy way to spot the 96+ ABS models is to look at the front fender area. The reflector is lower on the fork. The fender has 2 "ears" as a partial fork protector. Non-ABS has a silver headed screw holding the fender in place. ABS has a grey piece above the caliper. The caliper is blackish compared to the silvery non-ABS.
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OldWingit
Ed Wing
I bought a new ST1100 when they first came out and kept it until the ST1300 arrived. Both bikes were trouble free. To me the 1300 is much more fun to ride on a back road, quicker handling, a little faster, great brakes, power windshield and I love the modern looks. No one needs a bike, we buy them for sport and fun. ST1300 hands down winner.
Ed
Ed
I have an '01 non-ABS, and I'm very happy with it. Mine had just about four times that mileage (just over 60K) and I paid $3200, but then, it came with $1K worth of suspension upgrades; Traxxion Dynamics front build and a Progressive rear unit. So far, it has not needed anything except tires and the usual oil and filter changes.
Oh, one more thing: Many riders say the 1300 is much uglier without the panniers than is the 1100.
Not post '96, as it also has the better alternator. Any '96 and up will do. The 1100 ABS systems are long in the tooth though and prone to age problems.
As mentioned by RT, the ABS spares are gone and the modules are not easily repaired, if at all by someone with less experience than a very skilled tech. I only know of one person on this forum that has repaired several of them over the past years. Norm Keller in Chilliwack BC, but he hasn't been on here for quite a while and may have given up doing those.
Go for a post '95 non ABS 1100 would be my recommendation. I too tried a test ride on the 1300 when it came out and immediately was put off by the heat from the engine and poor readability of the instrument cluster, neither fault ever addressed by Honda in following years.
Consider this: The 1100 was designed by Honda engineers in Germany, whereas the 1300 was designed in the USA engineering room.
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Welcome Jeff. I loved my ST1300 and it was a very good bike to me for close to 200,000 miles. Personally I wouldn't want an 1100 after owning a 1300 but there are many satisfied owners of both. 13s aren't that much more now than 1100s and they are newer, more modern bikes. Because you are mechanically inclined you could do all the maintenance yourself on a mid to late 2000s BMW RT and find they are very easy to live with and a lot of fun to ride. R1200RTs with documented service histories are the same money or a little more than ST1300s and are very easy to maintain, easier in some ways than my ST1300 was. I paid $3500 for a well farkled 2007 RT that I'd ride anywhere, any distance, with better features, handling, and comfort than my ST.
I test rode an 1100 in Canada, rode my Guzzi home and started looking for an ST. I found a 2010 and absolutely loved it. There is no question that I did not ride the 1100 enough to really get a feel for what it is like, however, I asked around and was urged by friends (who, admittedly, did not know ST's) to go as new as I could. Their reasoning was that mfrs do incremental improvements to their cars/bikes with each model year. From my pov, the only reason to go 1100 is $$$.
There is a long thread discussing the pros and cons of ABS. Some guys would never have it, many ride willingly without it, and more would not ride a bike unless it had ABS. The most telling comment went something like, if you need it and don't have it, you are screwed. Far better to have it and not ever use it. This is one of those personal decision things, like do you want an airbag vest or do you wear a hemet? One thing to consider, the tip over points on the bike will protect it in a static drop. If you are moving (then its not a tip over but a crash) it is another story, and since body work is not available (except used) the bike will likely be totaled by your insurance company. A number of guys have restored crashed bikes by careful and long shopping on ebay, but it can take a while. For me, ABS can help keep the bike upright.
There is a long thread discussing the pros and cons of ABS. Some guys would never have it, many ride willingly without it, and more would not ride a bike unless it had ABS. The most telling comment went something like, if you need it and don't have it, you are screwed. Far better to have it and not ever use it. This is one of those personal decision things, like do you want an airbag vest or do you wear a hemet? One thing to consider, the tip over points on the bike will protect it in a static drop. If you are moving (then its not a tip over but a crash) it is another story, and since body work is not available (except used) the bike will likely be totaled by your insurance company. A number of guys have restored crashed bikes by careful and long shopping on ebay, but it can take a while. For me, ABS can help keep the bike upright.
aniwack
Site Supporter
Clayton County GA just traded in their Harley fleet for ST1300's. They look SICK in jet black.
But they were just made, or leftovers from a few years ago?
schlep1967
Bill
My question is, can you turn a wrench? If you are not afraisd to get in there and do a little work the 1100 would be fine for you. And the guys on this forum are great at teaching you how to get past the plastic barrier that stops many from wanting to work on them.
I bought my 1100, got on this site, decided to go to an event in Connecticut, also decided to have a tech event at my house in PA the next week, had three very knowledgable gentilemen show up and proceed to tear my new to me bike down to parts I didn't even know it had.
Just ask for help. If somebody can help you they will.
If you go for the 1100, I would plan on replacing all rubber coolant hoses sooner than later.
I bought my 1100, got on this site, decided to go to an event in Connecticut, also decided to have a tech event at my house in PA the next week, had three very knowledgable gentilemen show up and proceed to tear my new to me bike down to parts I didn't even know it had.
Just ask for help. If somebody can help you they will.
If you go for the 1100, I would plan on replacing all rubber coolant hoses sooner than later.