here we go again , dielectric grease is an insulating grease, bad for electrical contacts
Seeking advise on ST1100 Headlight bulb replacement
- Thread starter wolf9832
- Start date
here we go again , dielectric grease is an insulating grease, bad for electrical contacts
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?145920-Dielectric-grease-revisited old dielectric grease posts... there are many more
Unfortunately looks like the websites that had the diagrams are no longer up and I didn't retain any copies.
If you're just looking to change your bulb, FredD's post HERE is an excellent place to start. It even has a picture that clearly shows the secret to getting the bulb to release.
If you're still stumped check out THIS google search.
Also, check out the ST1100 Archive of Wisdom at ST-Riders if all the above fails.
Thank you Mick, I appreciate your reply. I had seen Fred's post and after trying to remove the lower middle fairing according to the factory service manual instructions, I will attempt his technique. I spent TWO hours trying to remove the middle fairing and finally gave up. It says right there "remove the six screws, release the two thumb clips and remove fairing." Yeah, right! My wife even showed up at the garage to ask if I was alright due to all the banging and cursing. If I tried to pull the piece out any harder it would have cracked.
Thanks again!
When I had my ST1100, I did not remove any fairings at all to change the bulb. I think I just turned the bars one way and went in with my hands to the housing. I'm not sure if I removed the access panel on the nose fairing and went in that way or not. Been about 10 years since I last changed an 1100 light bulb. The ONLY potential problem I remember is how to release the bulb by moving that wire tang. The picture in FredD's post (which has been around for many years), showed me exactly how to do it. Once I got that down, changing a bulb was simple and quick.
One other suggestion. If no one here replies with the method for removing the bulb without removing the tupperware, go to st-riders.net. Bunch of good guys over there who know all about the ST1100. They'll be happy to help you. Also at that site is the location of the "ST1100 Archive of Wisdom" where the answer might be stored.
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Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
Can't come in from the top (removing the windshield, etc.) on the ST1100 ABS/TCS. I find coming in from the bottom up is the way I have to do it.
Well, I see that one must have a STOC number to participate in the st-riders.net, number which I don't have yet and I am not sure how to get one but I am sure I will. If I may ask you one more question (sorry Mick); with the conversion to H4 45/45 and Shim, do any modifications need to be done to the bike's electrical system? I have found and ordered the items (shim and bulbs) but wanted to make sure that I will not be burning something else up. Thank you very much!
Phew! Thank you for this important message! I was about to consider going from the top. I saw this video on Youtube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vloQIy7HcG8) and the guy is changing his from the top. Either way, some helpful insight on his video.
Thanks Phil. I just couldn't remember. Now that you mention it, I remember kneeling down on the gravel somewhere in Idaho and going in through the bottom to change a bulb. Once you got the hang of it, the bulb swap was pretty easy.
You get your stoc# there on the ST-Riders site. Go ahead and register, get your stoc#, then ask away.
I don't remember. I never made this conversion but a lot of folks certainly did. I'm sure someone on this site or ST-Riders will be able to answer this question.
Ah-ha! Look what I found in the basement of my archive of saved emails from the old ST List:
From September, 1999:
Jim Switz wrote:
> <<<snippage>>>
> And the bummer news for you is - you did a lot of work you
> didn't need to do! Acting on the instructions of numerous STlisters,
> I decided to experiment tonight just for the hell of it. And it's
> pretty easy to get a bulb in and out - no sweat on my '92 ST with ABS!
> I just removed the black plastic piece on the underside of the nose,
<<<snipette>>>
>
>
Jim,
Once you know what must be done to get the bulb out, you can simply reach in under the dash by turning the handle bars and forks out of the way. This must be done mostly by feel, although with your hand out of the way you can see the area well...
but once you know what's intailed you can do it. The only tricky part is un-doing the bloody retaining clip from hell.
I have very large hands, but I can still do it.
The same is true for the clock light.. Just remove the mirror housing and reach in.
<<<final snip>>>
Victor Pritzker
STOC#401
Portland OR
"Most of the crashes I?ve seen over the years have stemmed from simple lack of belief"
Peter Egan
Jim Switz wrote:
> <<<snippage>>>
> And the bummer news for you is - you did a lot of work you
> didn't need to do! Acting on the instructions of numerous STlisters,
> I decided to experiment tonight just for the hell of it. And it's
> pretty easy to get a bulb in and out - no sweat on my '92 ST with ABS!
> I just removed the black plastic piece on the underside of the nose,
<<<snipette>>>
>
>
Jim,
Once you know what must be done to get the bulb out, you can simply reach in under the dash by turning the handle bars and forks out of the way. This must be done mostly by feel, although with your hand out of the way you can see the area well...
but once you know what's intailed you can do it. The only tricky part is un-doing the bloody retaining clip from hell.
I have very large hands, but I can still do it.
The same is true for the clock light.. Just remove the mirror housing and reach in.
<<<final snip>>>
Victor Pritzker
STOC#401
Portland OR
"Most of the crashes I?ve seen over the years have stemmed from simple lack of belief"
Peter Egan
Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
On the ABS models, the ABS 'computer' sits right in the way and you can't get around it (attached to the back of the speedo cluster). Boy, he nailed the description of that 'clip'. Martin (from SZ) says a very light 'touch' makes the clip disengage/engage easier. Removing the black garnish under the headlight does give you a little more 'working' room. No mods needed to use the shims. just don't get too high a wattage (I use 50/65? IIRC) or you could melt the reflector (still debate on that). You can also Dremel out the places for the H4 lower tabs but the shims work fine. I have an old headlight assembly (with some broken tabs) that was donated to me that I plan on fiddling with to see if there is a better solution than the clip. But it's a bit like my adjustable windshield project - in the works but moving slowly. 
Of course if you spring for the European (not the UK since it is for the 'proper' side of the road) headlight, it is set up to take H4s. Go figure!
Of course if you spring for the European (not the UK since it is for the 'proper' side of the road) headlight, it is set up to take H4s. Go figure!
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On the ABS models, the ABS 'computer' sits right in the way and you can't get around it (attached to the back of the speedo cluster). Boy, he nailed the description of that 'clip'. Martin (from SZ) says a very light 'touch' makes the clip disengage/engage easier. Removing the black garnish under the headlight does give you a little more 'working' room. No mods needed to use the shims. just don't get too high a wattage (I use 50/65? IIRC) or you could melt the reflector (still debate on that). You can also Dremel out the places for the H4 lower tabs but the shims work fine. I have an old headlight assembly (with some broken tabs) that was donated to me that I plan on fiddling with to see if there is a better solution than the clip. But it's a bit like my adjustable windshield project - in the works but moving slowly.
The picture below shows the modifications that have to be made to the H-4's when using the shim. Got the picture from THIS thread:
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The 1100's that I changed bulbs on were all ABS models. I don't recall it being terribly difficult. It's like anything else in life. Once you get over the hurdle of learning to do it that first time, it's much easier the second and subsequent times.
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Wow, wow, wow! I am so grateful for the time that you gentlemen took to help me. After a few days of trying, researching and reading your invaluable advice, I feel I have all the necessary knowledge to attack the job. In fact, it took me about FIVE minutes this morning to release the plug and rubber boot. I am now onto the clip and I will let you know how I make out. I have my bike on a lift, so it is easier to reach from below. I simply removed the little shield under the nose, working with a mirror and mostly feeling it around, it seems like the job will go well.
I ordered the shims and 45/45 H4 bulbs. I have yet to learn whether or not any electrical modifications have to made to the bike. Thanks again! I really appreciate your help!
Congratulations Dan, you are now a board certified ST bulb changer. The last time I did one I had an indent on one of my index fingers for two or three days. That hurt.
There must be a joke here like "How many posts does it take to change an ST light bulb?"
There must be a joke here like "How many posts does it take to change an ST light bulb?"
I have also noticed that the clip holding the bulb on my bike is slightly different then the one posted on Fred's thread.
I have also noticed that the clip holding the bulb on my bike is slightly different then the one posted on Fred's thread.
It was still a ***** wasn't it?
Just remember this picture. Push just slightly to the right then forward as it says in the picture until it clears the catch then to the left and the bulb should come right out:
If I remember correctly, the OEM Honda bulbs are 45 watts, so hooking up 45 watt aftermarket H-4's shouldn't present any need to make modifications.
