Wow thanks I’ll check them out . Just on an off tangent one is it normal for the gears to clunk a bit changing from 1st to 2nd the rest are silky smooth .
Wanted Right hand indicator/mirror cover needed in UK
- Thread starter Jacobmbp
- Start date
Absolutely normal. You might try lowering the shifter slightly.
What’s the shifter Larry , thanks !
The little peg you lift with your toes to shift gears. Lowering it reduces how far you have to lift it.
Ahh sorry of course I’ll have a look see if that helps, thank you !!
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
Lowering, or raising, the shifter pedal changes the vertical position of the shifter pedal. The throw, or the distance that the shifter pedal must travel to complete a shift, does not change. The shifter pedal must still move the same distance to complete a shift, it is just starting and stopping its arc at different vertical positions.
Absolutely agreed. A 1-2 shift can be improved if the lever doesn't have to be lifted as far.
Different leg lengths place the foot at different at-rest angles. Boot thickness also matters.
I'm taller and leggier than average, so this is an adjustment I've made on most of my bikes.
I also try to adjust the at-rest position of the back brake pedal, as well as its necessary travel.
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
I think that what you mean is that lowering the pedal can improve the shift because the shifter, and therefore the toe-end of one's foot, doesn't have to be lifted as high as opposed to as far. Regardless of the starting point the shifter is always going to need to be moved the same amount.
I just didn't want anyone to think that it was possible to reduce the distance that the pedal must be moved in order to complete a shift by adjusting the pedal height. Anyone doing so because they are trying to get that oh so sweet short throw that they loved so much on their hard-core sports bike would be disappointed when they didn't get it.
Agreed. Moving it down also means it must be pressed farther down to downshift.
There's one on fleabay (white with some cosmetic damage) £50 + £6 postage
Thanks Larry for the educational touch I need it , where do I find the OEM number for paint colour for the mirror casing . Have a beauty of a weekend
As Bikeric said back in post #7, look at the frame under your seat. Code is likely to be PB257M.
Dam sorry Bikeric brain like a sieve . Thanks !!
I need a left side mirror cover with the turn signal integrated into it. My right side one is fine.
I found a set of both sides on eBay for under $100. Didn't order them yet.
It doesn't say they are OEM so I assume they are cheap Chinese made knock offs but it says they are ABS plastic like the original,
and it comes in the silver color which is what my bike is.
I found a set of both sides on eBay for under $100. Didn't order them yet.
It doesn't say they are OEM so I assume they are cheap Chinese made knock offs but it says they are ABS plastic like the original,
and it comes in the silver color which is what my bike is.
I have only had my ST 1300 for two days and only ridden it a total of 45 miles but I noticed this also.
I don't think the issue is the range of motion or throw distance of the lever.
I think the issue is my coordination of the clutch and the throttle: I seem to have some issues with that between first and second, and to a lesser extent my shifting is not as smooth as I would hope going from 2nd to 3rd.
But I'm fine starting out from a stop in 1st.
I'm good and certainly smooth upshifting up from third through fifth.
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
I'm not Larry but you're welcome just the same, hope it helps.
Find part numbers and other info at sites like Partzilla, then do searches with the part numbers.
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
There two things that you can try that many have stated are helpful;
- Stop your foot motion in neutral and then progress with the shift to second gear. You only need to stop for a fraction of a second, just long enough to say that you stopped.
For the remainder of the shifts from 2 on up through 5;
- Preload the shifter before you shift.
i.e. Place upward pressure on the shifter pedal with your toe before you pull the clutch lever in. When you begin pulling the lever in increase the upward toe pressure to proceed with the shift as you normally would.
I view both of these as interim measures until one becomes accustomed to the motorcycle and the shift characteristics and develops the finesse to shift smoothly. I don't view employing secondary actions to accomplish a primary task as a long-term solution to most things. Having said that- If it works, it works.
Just tried this worked a treat thanks