Replacing vacuum lines...

[The Dark Shadow]

I ordered some red silicone 5/32 hose to replace the vacuum lines attached to the 5 way T.

I am planning to rip her apart and clean the T and replace the lines.

I read everything I can find on this forum and in other places, but I still have a few questions...

- It seems that the space it tight, but that the vacuum hoses can be removed from the throttle bodies even within this limited space. Is this true...? Are there any tips...?

- It seems best that I remove the hoses from the non-T end first, then remove the "octopus" (hexa-pus). The four attachment points to the throttle bodies seem removable, what about the 5th...? What does that connect to...? And is it easily-enough removable...?

- It seems prudent to add 1/2 inch to the length of each hose when reinstalling the 5 way T. Does this include the 5th hose attaching to the I-don't-yet-know-what...?

- Are there any other hoses other than these 5 that can be REASONABLY replaced at the same time (without digging deeper)...?

- A) Will a clogged 5 way T tend to reduce fuel efficiency...? B) Will leaking vacuum line joints tend to reduce fuel efficiency...?

FWIW, I saw a video recently of a British fellow who showed his clogged 5 way T. Wowsers!!

As usual, many thanks...

PS - I'm not so stressed about approaching this task, because the stuff that needs to be done is not hidden and there are less unknowns when compared to the brake work I recently did. Also, possibly tackling, then making a bonehead mistake, then getting it sorted, has empowered me. Thanks again for helping and cheering your encouragement, and sorry again for the bone head mistake and dark psychology...

 

[The Dark Shadow]

Oh yeah, one more question... Does the idle wax seal valve work with the air vacuum hoses...? I understand that coolant flows through this casing to melt the wax, but I'm not sure if only coolant flows through this or if when the wax melts, another air passage is opened.

And I read that this requires removing throttle bodies to change, and that it doesn't fail super often. However, the 5 way T seems to clog more(possibly related to centre stand versus side stand, and short trips versus long trips).

 

[Catmandu2]

Have you added an extra 3/8" to each of the hose lengths on the 5-way tee ?? The effect being to raise the tee,,, and thus prevent re-clogging ?? And,,, both my bikes have gone through the initial 5-way clog and cleaning. When they started to clog, I found that if I always ran the bike up hot (so lots of riding,, always 45 minutes or more),,, and parking on the center stand, really helped the symptoms. cheers, CAt'

However, the 5 way T seems to clog more(possibly related to centre stand versus side stand, and short trips versus long trips)

 

[The Dark Shadow]

Oh yeah, one more question... Does the idle wax seal valve work with the air vacuum hoses...? I understand that coolant flows through this casing to melt the wax, but I'm not sure if only coolant flows through this or if when the wax melts, another air passage is opened.

And I read that this requires removing throttle bodies to change, and that it doesn't fail super often. However, the 5 way T seems to clog more(possibly related to centre stand versus side stand, and short trips versus long trips).

You are responding to something other than what I wrote...

Have you added an extra 3/8" to each of the hose lengths on the 5-way tee ?? The effect being to raise the tee,,, and thus prevent re-clogging ?? And,,, both my bikes have gone through the initial 5-way clog and cleaning. When they started to clog, I found that if I always ran the bike up hot (so lots of riding,, always 45 minutes or more),,, and parking on the center stand, really helped the symptoms. cheers, CAt'

Seems like you are responding to something other than my queries... Please refer to my opening post. The part that you are responding to is a collation of information from other people's postings throughout the years...

 

[GitSum]

Here is a photo I took a couple of months ago when I was working on mine. Hopefully it will give you an idea what your dealing with



A small hook and pick set such as this works great when removing hoses. I usually use the 90 degree tool and you work the tip under the hose and move it around to break the seal.




Putting the hoses back on - just leave them long and cut to length when your ready to mount the 5 way. Here is what mine looks like - I made it so the 5 way was up on top for easy access which really helps if your doing a starter valve sync

 

[GitSum]

Oh yeah, one more question... Does the idle wax seal valve work with the air vacuum hoses...? I understand that coolant flows through this casing to melt the wax, but I'm not sure if only coolant flows through this or if when the wax melts, another air passage is opened.

And I read that this requires removing throttle bodies to change, and that it doesn't fail super often. However, the 5 way T seems to clog more(possibly related to centre stand versus side stand, and short trips versus long trips).

the wax assembly is only connected to coolant lines. In this photo, I used a piece of 1/4" copper tubing to connect the coolant lines that would normally connect to the wax assembly. This was to prevent coolant from leaking and I wanted to flush the system

You can see the wax assembly in this photo and the left coolant hose

 

[The Dark Shadow]

Here is a photo I took a couple of months ago when I was working on mine. Hopefully it will give you an idea what your dealing with



A small hook and pick set such as this works great when removing hoses. I usually use the 90 degree tool and you work the tip under the hose and move it around to break the seal.




Putting the hoses back on - just leave them long and cut to length when your ready to mount the 5 way. Here is what mine looks like - I made it so the 5 way was up on top for easy access which really helps if your doing a starter valve sync

Thank you. This is very helpful!

So the part you are holding on the photo is the MAP sensor, yes...?

 

[GitSum]

Yes here is a better view and you can see the screw that holds it on to the bracket



and it is the smaller 5 way

 

[Andrew Shadow]

I used a piece of 1/4" copper tubing to connect the coolant lines that would normally connect to the wax assembly.

Just an observation, not knowing whether or not that was the final resting place for that coolant line.
Now having two connections in it, I would not have left that hose in that location. If ever there is a leak form either connection it is sitting directly above the alternator, which wouldn't appreciate an antifreeze bath.

 

[GitSum]

Just an observation, not knowing whether or not that was the final resting place for that coolant line.
Now having two connections in it, I would not have left that hose in that location. If ever there is a leak form either connection it is sitting directly above the alternator, which wouldn't appreciate an antifreeze bath.

The sentence after that was "This was to prevent coolant from leaking and I wanted to flush the system"

This was temporary since I had the throttle body off. It was my experience that if your disconnect those lines when you remove the throttle body, coolant will leak out. The copper tubing prevented any leaks. I later removed the drain plugs from the engine block and flushed the system which again would have coolant leaking out from those disconnected lines if it were not for the copper tubing I temporarily installed...

 

[The Dark Shadow]

Yes here is a better view and you can see the screw that holds it on to the bracket



and it is the smaller 5 way

Is it possible to do this without removing the top gas tank...?

I'm guessing it's at very least easiest to do with the top tank off...

 

[GitSum]

I took my tank off, so I really can't answer - maybe someone else can chime in. It *probably* could be done, but it makes it a heck of a lot easier with the tank off, in my opinon.

 

[Tdinova]

Is it possible to do this without removing the top gas tank...?

I'm guessing it's at very least easiest to do with the top tank off...

Leave your tank on.. very easy. Remember PUSH the lines off.. NOT PULL them off

 

[Tdinova]

I also use a long nose pliers to install the new ones

 

[The Dark Shadow]

I also use a long nose pliers to install the new ones

Thank you!

 

[STPaulK]

I'm doing my 5-way T clean and vacuum hose replacement since I've got the tank off. I noticed another five way T below that appears to also be part of the induction system. Curiously it seems like all articles are about the upper 5 way T and not that lower one. Does this never get dirty? Is the hose for this assembly the same or is it a 5.5 mm hose?

 

[Igofar]

The vacuum lines are attached to the smaller 5 way tee and to the map sensor switch.
The othe tee style fittings you see are coolant lines.
There has been several issues lately about folks buying generic, or even off brand kits of windshield washer / vacuum hose from Amazon, or many different auto part stores, then creating vacuum leaks and the bike runs poorly.
I would suggest using only the packaged Prestone kit shown for the correct fitting hose.
Here are a couple pieces of new hose both marketed as the same size, however it’s easy to see the smaller (correct size) Prestone version fits better.
Despite labels stating that the hose was the same specs and sizes, you can see the non- name brand one falls off the tee when turned sideways.
Buyer beware.
I would also avoid the stuff on big rolls at the auto part stores for the same reason.
Close isn’t always good enough.

 

[STPaulK]

I did buy a kit with the same part number WV0532 but not Prestone branded. The fit is too loose on the 5-way so I'm just going to go with the Honda p/n and be done with it. Carquest, Autozone and OReillys do not carry the Prestone branded hose.

 

[Bright Rider]

Here is a photo I took a couple of months ago when I was working on mine. Hopefully it will give you an idea what your dealing with



A small hook and pick set such as this works great when removing hoses. I usually use the 90 degree tool and you work the tip under the hose and move it around to break the seal.




Putting the hoses back on - just leave them long and cut to length when your ready to mount the 5 way. Here is what mine looks like - I made it so the 5 way was up on top for easy access which really helps if your doing a starter valve sync

The photo is very helpful, especially with the bright blue line that really stands out. I've never serviced these lines. Just to add to the discussion, what mileage are you guys or most having to replace these lines?

 

[Bright Rider]

The vacuum lines are attached to the smaller 5 way tee and to the map sensor switch.
The othe tee style fittings you see are coolant lines.
There has been several issues lately about folks buying generic, or even off brand kits of windshield washer / vacuum hose from Amazon, or many different auto part stores, then creating vacuum leaks and the bike runs poorly.
I would suggest using only the packaged Prestone kit shown for the correct fitting hose.
Here are a couple pieces of new hose both marketed as the same size, however it’s easy to see the smaller (correct size) Prestone version fits better.
Despite labels stating that the hose was the same specs and sizes, you can see the non- name brand one falls off the tee when turned sideways.
Buyer beware.
I would also avoid the stuff on big rolls at the auto part stores for the same reason.
Close isn’t always good enough.

Good to know. Thanks!