I recently got my rear tyre changed, but almost immediately I stated hearing a loud rubbing from the back brake, It goes away momentarily when I lightly press either brake, Ive taken it back to the garage 4 times but he can't find out what the problem is, could he have put it back together wrongly? Any suggestions please .
Rear Brake Noise
- Thread starter mill66
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Yes he could.
Did he take the brake pads off for any reason?
Should not have had to but some not familiar with the bike might do that. If so, the pads may have not been installed correctly - there's tabs and notches and a clip that have to be in there just right.
If he did not take the brake pads off then you might have bearings that are going bad, or already bad... sometimes a tire change will expose that more before they're completely gone.
Is the ONLY thing the mechanic did was a tire change?
Did he take the brake pads off for any reason?
Should not have had to but some not familiar with the bike might do that. If so, the pads may have not been installed correctly - there's tabs and notches and a clip that have to be in there just right.
If he did not take the brake pads off then you might have bearings that are going bad, or already bad... sometimes a tire change will expose that more before they're completely gone.
Is the ONLY thing the mechanic did was a tire change?
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Hi Mellow
Yes the only thing he did was a tire change, when I took it back each time he took the Pads out and to check wear and put them back in, I wonder if the clip is mis aligned or missing, I had an NC750 x that the clip was a nightmare to seat, I'll check, thanks for the info
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It's possible.. did he check the wheel bearings? That is a weak spot for the ST1300.
This shows some of the orientation:
www.st-owners.com
Awesome document here:
www.st-owners.com
This shows some of the orientation:
Article [13] - ST1300 - Rear Brake Piston Cleaning | ST1300 Articles
I was putting a tire on the bike and decided to do an article on how I clean the rear brake whenever I do a tire change. If anyone has more info to add, please post and I'll adjust this article. Okay, let's get to it. This article assumes you've already removed the rear wheel Remove the...
Awesome document here:
Article [13] - ST1300 - Brake Maintenance - Avoiding the Pitfalls | ST1300 Articles
A close hands-on look at the Honda ST1300 braking system. These are personal observations about the things that can go wrong, why they go wrong and what can be done to keep things working sweetly. Updated April 2020 and to address more recent observations, to include information about the SMC...
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
Just adding a word in the off chance that this throws someone off in the future.
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Thanks... corrected.. need more coffee....
What's often overlooked in discussing the orientation and installation of those clips is the function of those little tabs Larry spotlights in his pictures.
Notice how the springs on the right of the clip with the tabs are narrow and those on the left without clips are wide.
The tabs on the narrow springs are designed to retain the fixed pad in place against the outer part of the caliper opposite the pistons.
The wide springs are designed to maintain tension on the floating pad which is moved by the pistons. It's wide so it can maintain tension on the backing plate of the floating pad as it moves closer to the fixed pad as its friction material wears through the life of the pads. And of course the caliper floats on the caliper pins to keep the whole assembly properly positioned on the brake rotor as they wear.
Once I understood why the clip was designed that way and what it's doing, the proper orientation and assembly requirements are always obvious to me.
Notice how the springs on the right of the clip with the tabs are narrow and those on the left without clips are wide.
The tabs on the narrow springs are designed to retain the fixed pad in place against the outer part of the caliper opposite the pistons.
The wide springs are designed to maintain tension on the floating pad which is moved by the pistons. It's wide so it can maintain tension on the backing plate of the floating pad as it moves closer to the fixed pad as its friction material wears through the life of the pads. And of course the caliper floats on the caliper pins to keep the whole assembly properly positioned on the brake rotor as they wear.
Once I understood why the clip was designed that way and what it's doing, the proper orientation and assembly requirements are always obvious to me.
Slydynbye
Will ride for Pie
Is this an ABS Bike, I've had a ABS sensor mis-adjusted by a Tire changer that causes a rythmic scrape.
This was on an ST1100 but just the same check the ABS gap if you have it.
This was on an ST1100 but just the same check the ABS gap if you have it.
Hi STrider, that is great info, I will investigate, I do hope it is something as dimple as this, thank you very much.
Hi Slydnbye
Yes it is ABS model registered 2015, now im getting worried, I'll have a check tonight, thanks again.
Well, I couldnt sort what it was so took it to Honda, at first they said dirty cylinder, but after cleaning , there was still the noise, they have sent away for a new SMC now, fingers crossed.
jfheath
John Heath
@Mellow already referenced my Avoiding the pitfalls article. Theres a lot in there, worth looking at.
Particular mention goes to :-
Check one pad is on one side of the brake disk and one on the other. If the wheel has been removed without removing the pads, it is easy to put it back again with both pads on one side of the brake disc.
Does the front wheel turn ok ? If the front wheel is dragging that may be the cause of the rear brakes not releasing.
The pad spring is easy to insert the wrong way round.
Chrome retainer clips. Front pads and clip are different from rear pads and clip. The rear retainer clip has a ridge, which marries with the notch on the tab end of the pad. The front brakes do not have the ridge and notch (OEM pads)
Check the Fitment of the pad in the bracket. It is easy to get the tab end of the pad located too low. View the inner pad from opposite side of the wheel, to check that the tab end is properly located inside the chrome retainer clip. For the rear wheel outer pad you have to lower the left exhaust to be able to see it.
Ensure that the caliper is fitted properly with the bracket - one slider pin on the caliper fits into the rubber boot on the bracket; one slider pin on the bracket fits inside the rubber boot on the caliper. Do not remove slider pins to remove the caliper. Once free of the rear axle and the brake disk, the bracket pulls smoothly away from the caliper.
Check that the caliper brocket stopper bolt is located through the elongated hole in the bracket. You can see half of it from the right hand side looking through spokes. The other half is obscured by the brake disc.
Has the spacer been fitted into the left hand side of the hub, into the oil seal? You can see it on the axle between the wheel and the caliper bracket.
Post photos. Blackpool ? Thats an easy phone call to: arrange. PM me with a phone number if you are struggling.
I'm not a fan of removing the wheels without removing pads. I've tried and failed. There's not enough room to remove the caliper and bracket.
New SMC ? Make sure you that get the old one back. You can learn a lot from that. It may or may not solve the problem but its not money thrown away - even if the bike was the last off the production line, its still more than 10 years old. If its low mileage, then it has probably not had the regular maintenance that it needs (fluid changes and flushes), If it is high mileage in the uk, it is possibly wearing and/or rusted under the boot.
Particular mention goes to :-
Check one pad is on one side of the brake disk and one on the other. If the wheel has been removed without removing the pads, it is easy to put it back again with both pads on one side of the brake disc.
Does the front wheel turn ok ? If the front wheel is dragging that may be the cause of the rear brakes not releasing.
The pad spring is easy to insert the wrong way round.
Chrome retainer clips. Front pads and clip are different from rear pads and clip. The rear retainer clip has a ridge, which marries with the notch on the tab end of the pad. The front brakes do not have the ridge and notch (OEM pads)
Check the Fitment of the pad in the bracket. It is easy to get the tab end of the pad located too low. View the inner pad from opposite side of the wheel, to check that the tab end is properly located inside the chrome retainer clip. For the rear wheel outer pad you have to lower the left exhaust to be able to see it.
Ensure that the caliper is fitted properly with the bracket - one slider pin on the caliper fits into the rubber boot on the bracket; one slider pin on the bracket fits inside the rubber boot on the caliper. Do not remove slider pins to remove the caliper. Once free of the rear axle and the brake disk, the bracket pulls smoothly away from the caliper.
Check that the caliper brocket stopper bolt is located through the elongated hole in the bracket. You can see half of it from the right hand side looking through spokes. The other half is obscured by the brake disc.
Has the spacer been fitted into the left hand side of the hub, into the oil seal? You can see it on the axle between the wheel and the caliper bracket.
Post photos. Blackpool ? Thats an easy phone call to: arrange. PM me with a phone number if you are struggling.
I'm not a fan of removing the wheels without removing pads. I've tried and failed. There's not enough room to remove the caliper and bracket.
New SMC ? Make sure you that get the old one back. You can learn a lot from that. It may or may not solve the problem but its not money thrown away - even if the bike was the last off the production line, its still more than 10 years old. If its low mileage, then it has probably not had the regular maintenance that it needs (fluid changes and flushes), If it is high mileage in the uk, it is possibly wearing and/or rusted under the boot.
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Sounds to me like they're throwing your money against a potential solution without really knowing the problem. You're better off working through the help here, using detailed steps and photos if you have questions. Plus you'll get the added benefit of learning more about your bike!
If the stopper bolt and axle but we’re not tightened in the correct order your calliper could be out of alignment.
Stopper bolt first, 51 lbs. ft.
Axle nut last, 80 lbs. ft.
Stopper bolt first, 51 lbs. ft.
Axle nut last, 80 lbs. ft.
Hi Guys, thanks for all of your advice, as an update Honda Replaced the SMC, fitted New Brake Pads, and while they were at it, changed the valve in the front tire, that had a slow leak and also changed the fork seals. The Bill eas £548.00 but because I'd only had the bike since december they covered it all FOC under warranty. They are pretty good at NW Honda.
Yes, all good now.