I recently got my rear tyre changed, but almost immediately I stated hearing a loud rubbing from the back brake, It goes away momentarily when I lightly press either brake, Ive taken it back to the garage 4 times but he can't find out what the problem is, could he have put it back together wrongly? Any suggestions please .
Rear Brake Noise
- Thread starter mill66
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Yes he could.
Did he take the brake pads off for any reason?
Should not have had to but some not familiar with the bike might do that. If so, the pads may have not been installed correctly - there's tabs and notches and a clip that have to be in there just right.
If he did not take the brake pads off then you might have bearings that are going bad, or already bad... sometimes a tire change will expose that more before they're completely gone.
Is the ONLY thing the mechanic did was a tire change?
Did he take the brake pads off for any reason?
Should not have had to but some not familiar with the bike might do that. If so, the pads may have not been installed correctly - there's tabs and notches and a clip that have to be in there just right.
If he did not take the brake pads off then you might have bearings that are going bad, or already bad... sometimes a tire change will expose that more before they're completely gone.
Is the ONLY thing the mechanic did was a tire change?
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Hi Mellow
Yes the only thing he did was a tire change, when I took it back each time he took the Pads out and to check wear and put them back in, I wonder if the clip is mis aligned or missing, I had an NC750 x that the clip was a nightmare to seat, I'll check, thanks for the info
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It's possible.. did he check the wheel bearings? That is a weak spot for the ST1300.
This shows some of the orientation:
www.st-owners.com
Awesome document here:
www.st-owners.com
This shows some of the orientation:
Article [13] - ST1300 - Rear Brake Piston Cleaning | ST1300 Articles
I was putting a tire on the bike and decided to do an article on how I clean the rear brake whenever I do a tire change. If anyone has more info to add, please post and I'll adjust this article. Okay, let's get to it. This article assumes you've already removed the rear wheel Remove the...
Awesome document here:
Article [13] - ST1300 - Brake Maintenance - Avoiding the Pitfalls | ST1300 Articles
A close hands-on look at the Honda ST1300 braking system. These are personal observations about the things that can go wrong, why they go wrong and what can be done to keep things working sweetly. Updated April 2020 and to address more recent observations, to include information about the SMC...
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
Just adding a word in the off chance that this throws someone off in the future.
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Thanks... corrected.. need more coffee....
What's often overlooked in discussing the orientation and installation of those clips is the function of those little tabs Larry spotlights in his pictures.
Notice how the springs on the right of the clip with the tabs are narrow and those on the left without clips are wide.
The tabs on the narrow springs are designed to retain the fixed pad in place against the outer part of the caliper opposite the pistons.
The wide springs are designed to maintain tension on the floating pad which is moved by the pistons. It's wide so it can maintain tension on the backing plate of the floating pad as it moves closer to the fixed pad as its friction material wears through the life of the pads. And of course the caliper floats on the caliper pins to keep the whole assembly properly positioned on the brake rotor as they wear.
Once I understood why the clip was designed that way and what it's doing, the proper orientation and assembly requirements are always obvious to me.
Notice how the springs on the right of the clip with the tabs are narrow and those on the left without clips are wide.
The tabs on the narrow springs are designed to retain the fixed pad in place against the outer part of the caliper opposite the pistons.
The wide springs are designed to maintain tension on the floating pad which is moved by the pistons. It's wide so it can maintain tension on the backing plate of the floating pad as it moves closer to the fixed pad as its friction material wears through the life of the pads. And of course the caliper floats on the caliper pins to keep the whole assembly properly positioned on the brake rotor as they wear.
Once I understood why the clip was designed that way and what it's doing, the proper orientation and assembly requirements are always obvious to me.
Slydynbye
Will ride for Pie
Is this an ABS Bike, I've had a ABS sensor mis-adjusted by a Tire changer that causes a rythmic scrape.
This was on an ST1100 but just the same check the ABS gap if you have it.
This was on an ST1100 but just the same check the ABS gap if you have it.
Hi STrider, that is great info, I will investigate, I do hope it is something as dimple as this, thank you very much.
Hi Slydnbye
Yes it is ABS model registered 2015, now im getting worried, I'll have a check tonight, thanks again.
Well, I couldnt sort what it was so took it to Honda, at first they said dirty cylinder, but after cleaning , there was still the noise, they have sent away for a new SMC now, fingers crossed.
jfheath
John Heath
@Mellow already referenced my Avoiding the pitfalls article. Theres a lot in there, worth looking at.
Particular mention goes to :-
Check one pad is on one side of the brake disk and one on the other.
Does the front wheel turn ok ?
The pad spring orientation is easy to get the wrong way round
Chrome retainer clips. Front pads and clip are different from rear pads and clip. The rear has a ridge on the clip, and a notch on the pad, forward end (opposite the end with the hole for the pad pin)
Fitment of pad into bracket. Easy to get the pad located too low. View from opposite side if wheel. Rear wheel you have to gain access by lowering the exhaust.
Ensure that the caliper is mated properly with the bracket - one pin slider on each goes into one boot on the other. Do not attempt to remove slider pins.
Check the caliper brocket stopper bolt is located through the bracket. You can see half of it from the right hand side looking through spokes. The other half is obscured by the brake disc.
Is the spacer on the axle between caliper bracket and wheel hub.
Post photos. Blackpool ? Thats an easy phone call to arrange if needed.
I'm not a fan of removing the wheels without removing pads and caliper. I've tried and failed. There's not enough room.
Particular mention goes to :-
Check one pad is on one side of the brake disk and one on the other.
Does the front wheel turn ok ?
The pad spring orientation is easy to get the wrong way round
Chrome retainer clips. Front pads and clip are different from rear pads and clip. The rear has a ridge on the clip, and a notch on the pad, forward end (opposite the end with the hole for the pad pin)
Fitment of pad into bracket. Easy to get the pad located too low. View from opposite side if wheel. Rear wheel you have to gain access by lowering the exhaust.
Ensure that the caliper is mated properly with the bracket - one pin slider on each goes into one boot on the other. Do not attempt to remove slider pins.
Check the caliper brocket stopper bolt is located through the bracket. You can see half of it from the right hand side looking through spokes. The other half is obscured by the brake disc.
Is the spacer on the axle between caliper bracket and wheel hub.
Post photos. Blackpool ? Thats an easy phone call to arrange if needed.
I'm not a fan of removing the wheels without removing pads and caliper. I've tried and failed. There's not enough room.
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