Raising front end

Road Slug

Joined
Oct 7, 2024
Messages
7
Age
60
Location
Idaho
Bike
St 1100
Have a wobble when letting go of bars at 45mph.
I want to rebuild the front end of the bike.
Tapered steering head bearings, change fork fluid and replace the front tire.
What is everyone doing to keep the front of the bike off the ground so i can service?
Thanks
 
I used a small hyd jack (Harbor Fright) to jack the front up, then put wood blocks under the oil pan and relieved hyd pressure. I only pulled the forks - I did not dig into the steering head.

More than a few guys use this type of jack. I'm not advocating this particular one because I've not checked it out. @Igofar recommends one that costs in the $400 range (IIRC) and will probably lift a battleship. Some use a lift/ratchet straps/winch/pulley system to an overhead anchor. You are only limited by what you have on hand and your imagination. I'd imagine you could also put the bike on the center stand and put a weight on the rear carrier to elevate the front. If you put a strap on the center stand crossbar leading forward to prevent the bike from moving forward and off the stand, you could probably do this too.
 
I have used a floor jack to lift front tire just off the ground when on center stand. once the wheel is off it stays up by itself, but I have a large trunk on back.
 
1728874768760.png
Fits nicely under the sump - cross ways to clear the oil drain plug. Bike on centre stand.

Not cheap, but probably the best bit of garage equipment I have bought.

This is a Draper. Sealey make one too.
 
A couple replies have mentioned the jack under the engine method, that's always worked well for me.

What I'd suggest before going to tapered steering stem bearing replacement, try tightening the stock bearings first, you have nothing to lose.
 
On the centre stand - a shoulder under the headlight lets you wedge under the front tyre. Then, build a stack of timber under the engine until you are satisfied it's safe to kick the front tyre wedge away......
 
dwalby said:
A couple replies have mentioned the jack under the engine method, that's always worked well for me.

What I'd suggest before going to tapered steering stem bearing replacement, try tightening the stock bearings first, you have nothing to lose.
Click to expand...
I thought about that too. Hard to check the fall away without getting the front off the ground.
To me it seems pretty loose.
I figured if am removing forks and stripping off bars, might as well just replace them and eliminate that possibility since I am already there.
 
jfheath said:
1728874768760.png
Fits nicely under the sump - cross ways to clear the oil drain plug. Bike on centre stand.

Not cheap, but probably the best bit of garage equipment I have bought.

This is a Draper. Sealey make one too.
Click to expand...
I bought two of these, Chinese, but significantly cheaper than the Draper or Sealey. Does the job nicely.

www.ebay.co.uk

VEVOR 500KG Motorbike Motorcycle Table Workshop Scissor Lift Jack Stand Paddock | eBay

Large Weight-bearing Capacity: When you need to lift your motorcycle for maintenance and cleaning, you can partner with a VEVOR motorcycle scissor lift jack. Through the load-bearing tests, the motorcycle lift jack can securely hold up to 1100 lbs/0.5 tons.
www.ebay.co.uk
 
I have two old jackstands from back when it was called AutoShack (sued by Radioshack and then changed to the TwilightZone we all know and ... well you know) I get the front up either by rocking it back via my shoulder or a jack under the front of the cases and slide them under the crash bars (of course after removing the plastic covers if not already off).
I now also have anchors in the ceiling joists of the garage I can hang the bike from, in one spot using ratchet straps, the other spot a trailer winch with two cables coming off it to pulleys.
My truck doesn't fit in the garage so it is bikes only anyhow, and the winch setup is in front of the parking spot for the operating bike.
Anyhow, fast and easy is the stands. weight in the luggage helps lighten the front or someone sitting in the passenger seat. Insert stands, et voila.
 
Use straps to raise front up in the garage as I don't have a stable enough jack, tried the wood stack also but felt unstable.
 
Road Slug said:
I figured if am removing forks and stripping off bars, might as well just replace them and eliminate that possibility since I am already there.
Click to expand...
if you decide to change them ask around for the bearing puller kit, I think John O. may be the keeper of it. When I did mine decades ago I pounded them out by hand and it was a pain to do because of the shape of the steering stem housing, the puller kit will make the job much easier.
 
jfheath said:
1728874768760.png
Fits nicely under the sump - cross ways to clear the oil drain plug. Bike on centre stand.

Not cheap, but probably the best bit of garage equipment I have bought.

This is a Draper. Sealey make one too.
Click to expand...
I've been using one very much like this one with the bike on the center stand. I also put a very thick knee pad on top the platform and the bottom of the bike to cushion the bottom of the engine better than wood blocks. The knee pad also forms to the bottom of the engine somewhat for more even distribution of the force. Make sure to have the bike sit on the lift closer to the end where the scissors bars are fixed and NOT centered on the platform. In the photo above that would be to center the bike on the right half (or 2/3 depending how high) of the platform.
As mentioned, only lift the front enough to get the rear tire to just touch the floor. I do this every time I remove the front wheel for a tire change or any other service on the front end.
 
rjs987 said:
I've been using one very much like this one with the bike on the center stand. I also put a very thick knee pad on top the platform and the bottom of the bike to cushion the bottom of the engine better than wood blocks. The knee pad also forms to the bottom of the engine somewhat for more even distribution of the force. Make sure to have the bike sit on the lift closer to the end where the scissors bars are fixed and NOT centered on the platform. In the photo above that would be to center the bike on the right half (or 2/3 depending how high) of the platform.
As mentioned, only lift the front enough to get the rear tire to just touch the floor. I do this every time I remove the front wheel for a tire change or any other service on the front end.
Click to expand...
I need to get one of those. I have a Harley that I could use it on also.
I was thinking I could just jam a jack stand under the bike somewhere the drain plug is.
It has a cradle shape.
I will put a piece of neoprene on it to keep it from gouging up the case.
 
Like the dirt bike lift, checked Amazon and they can be had cheap...... If your not lifting the whole bike. I have a KLR and ZRX that don't have center stands, I do have the rear axle lift and that would work on the front splendidly. Much better than my floor jack and jack stands. Think I will check it out.
Although I have a lathe, some steel, and am a welder/mechanic. Helps to be retired and have the time. Along with being too cheap to buy one.
 
I had bad head bearings but it never wobbled. When I first bought the bike on a smooth street I didn't notice any front end noise and it felt stable. Then noticed noise on rough roads. The lower tripple tree fork bolts were loose but never had a wobble. check the tire.
 
The bike on its centre stand with both wheels on is not very heavy front or back. You can lift the front end by its mudguard (depending what you have in the top box). That particular platform jack can lift 450Kg. I tend to use it with the length across the width of the bike - that way it clears the oil drain bolt and ensures that the weight is not taken just by the base of the sump, but by the sides of the crank case.

It also fits on the bike ramp which makes the bike very stable with both wheels off when raising and lowering the ramp.
 
I agree with checking the tire- I’m running tapered bearings in both 1100s (and torqued exactly the same) and only had the 94 with a decel wobble with a Shinko tire up front- didn’t happen with any other tire (and with roller bearings as well on that bike)- new tapered bearings on the 94 and 2000 in the past year (2000 had them for years but I figured I’d swap them both out based on age and mileage) and Shinko tire up front = wobble again, so I won’t be using a Shinko up front in the future (but the rear tire is wearing very well- also a Shinko). No Shinkos on the 2000 and never had a wobble
 
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