PSR Highway Blades (ST 1300) Install and First Impressions

I have to agree, the design threads the needle, to use a slang expression. From a product design standpoint, I think the need is for AFTERMARKET TIP OVER COVERS.

Even if there was no such thing as cruise pegs, anyone with missing or bad covers will have a heck of a time finding replacements.

An aftermarket cover with a slot for the wings would be nothing short of game, set, match!

The problem is that it's a niche market. The nonrecurring cost to design and tool-up to make covers represents a business risk.

I have a lot of respect for PSR because in making the pegs, they stepped up and solved a similar challenge.
 
Merry Christmas! Thanks to Gary for thinking outside the box and mounted the PSR Blades upside down! And they work just as well! To quote an old cliche, “why didn’t we think of that?!”

Now you don’t have to cut the crash bar covers on the top side!

Keep in mind the blades will stick outside of the crash bar and susceptible to damage when tipped over.
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Part of the original problem of mounting the blades below the bar was protecting them in the event of a tipover. So if you mount them upside don't just don't have a tipover. Problem solved.

Otherwise keep a file sandpaper and some black Krylon handy.
 
Anyone have an online template for cutting the tip-over covers for the upside-down mount? I shipped my PSR blades to be picked up next spring across the border and wouldn't mind pre-cutting the covers so I can mount them with the blades down there. Otherwise I'll have to ride with them naked :eek: as I'm hoping to string together NEW-STOC, NatSTOC and WeSTOC in June and won't have time to customize the covers until I'm back home.

Regarding the blades being damaged in the event of a tip-over, first, no one plans to have a tip-over and second, then they'll match the scuffed ends of my tip-over bars. :biggrin:
 
The first time anybody has even a minor tip over or drop, looks like it will cost them the price of the blades, about $75 for the crash bar that will be bent, and possibly the large side body panel that the crash bar is attached to via 2 8mm head bolts. Even with the standard crash bars, those who've dropped their bikes know that besides damaging the plastic cover, it pushes rearward, and bends the tabs on the crash bar, then if you try and force the bolts to line up, it torques the plastic and causes them to crack straight up the side (I've seen several damaged like this).
Just saying, by adding on something like this, you have to weigh the risk... Not even mentioning the risk of getting a wasp up your pants leg :rofl1:
 
The first time anybody has even a minor tip over or drop, looks like it will cost them the price of the blades, about $75 for the crash bar that will be bent, and possibly the large side body panel that the crash bar is attached to via 2 8mm head bolts. Even with the standard crash bars, those who've dropped their bikes know that besides damaging the plastic cover, it pushes rearward, and bends the tabs on the crash bar, then if you try and force the bolts to line up, it torques the plastic and causes them to crack straight up the side (I've seen several damaged like this).
Just saying, by adding on something like this, you have to weigh the risk... Not even mentioning the risk of getting a wasp up your pants leg :rofl1:

I must have been lucky because I've dropped my ST hard four times I can remember, and had someone back into it last August and pitch it over the sidestand hard enough it went past the tip over guard and was resting on the guard and the broken mirror, wheels in the air. In none of these incidents have I had any worse damage to the engine guards than scuffing of the covers. Maybe the impact was shared with the tip over bar, which minimized the impact on the engine guard? So, other than the damage to the blade, I'll consider the risk minimal. YMMV. As for uninvited guests up the pant legs, as a Canadian I have bug screens on all windows, doors and clothing openings. :biggrin:
 
I mounted mine shortly after I got them, haven't cut the covers yet, but now have used them enough to know I want to keep them and cut covers. Then I saw this. Besides loosing the spring and ball bearings (again), what will I need to replace if I uninstall and reinstall upside down? Anyone have upside down instuctions available? I don't do well standing on my head at my age.
 
now someone needs to come up with a idea for putting black brush bristles in the cut cover opening to keep out dirt, sand, wasps, etc.

I really did not want to cut the covers but this looks better. decisions decisions. Had the things all winter but it was too cold to mess with it... hopefully soon as I get the upside down install directions!
 
now someone needs to come up with a idea for putting black brush bristles in the cut cover opening to keep out dirt, sand, wasps, etc.

Um... the covers are just an open plastic grill underneath full of 1" (approx) holes, what exactly will the bristle brushes do??
 
Having never seen the bottom of the covers, I did not know that. The idea of course was to keep wasps out.

Thanks for the kind thoughtful reply!
 
So I must be super dense, but I can't visualize where the mounting is upside down. Pictures look great, but don't really show mounting since covers are in place already. Is the blade all that is changed, or is the mounting bracket changed?
 
nice video of install with blade on top of crash bar. Mine are installed the same way. I'm looking for help with installing blasdes BELOW crash bar, as indicated in last several posts, and shown in pictures(but with cover in place).
 
To install it upside down, just swap the left blade and bracket to the right side, and the right side blade and bracket to the left.

nice video of install with blade on top of crash bar. Mine are installed the same way. I'm looking for help with installing blasdes BELOW crash bar, as indicated in last several posts, and shown in pictures(but with cover in place).
 
So I got an unexpected PM from another member today, that contained the statement

I read all your posts on the foot pegs but just when it started getting interesting you stopped posting on how if you like them. ... [you] haven't posted on it for a while so I was wondering if you still like them or you decided to not go with them and get your money back?

The fact is, I haven't posted more about the blades because this is still not true:

Now I need to go run with them for a few thousand miles

It's been an off-year for me, ST-wise, but I have been out for a few rides and have deployed the blades out of a sense of obligation. "They're there to be used, so use 'em." is what the voice inside my head (well, one of the voices, anyhow) is telling me.

What I've found so far is this: they're better for ME than the MCL version, but I still have one of the same issues I had with the MCLs, namely that they position my legs such that the backs of my calves still come in contact with that square edge on the back of the lower cowling, where it flares out to accept the tip over guard covers. (Red circled area in the photo below)

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Viewers with a keen eye for detail will note the manly fullness of my lower limbs, especially my calves. Resting the back of my calf on the spot in the circle is not comfortable.

I might alleviate it by re-installing the tip over guard covers, but that would come at the cost of repositioning my leg into what I fear would be an even more awkward position. And, for those who have experimented with mounting them by inverting the mount such that the blade retracts to beneath the tip over guard, that's only going to make my problem worse. So aesthetics are going to lose out to function for a while longer at least.

A second observation I've made is that I seem to have some trouble deploying the blades while riding. It's easy enough to pull them back in from the extended / in-use position, but getting them out is a bit tricky for me. I have been toying with the idea of relocating the pegs on the tops of the blades to whichever set of holes they aren't currently in. (I don't recall whether I put them in the holes at the tips of the blades, or the set an inch or two closer to the pivot. Whichever it is, though, I want to try the other position before I chuck it in altogether.)

Lastly, there's a delicate balance to be struck on the torque placed on the pivot bolt itself. Too loose, and the blades almost self-deploy. Too tight and they're really, really hard to get into position.

As I said above, I've not done a lot of miles yet this year so I don't feel as though I've given them a full and comprehensive test, or a really fair chance. I'm still not entirely convinced that I'll keep them but I'm also not yet quite ready to put them up for resale. Happily, I have a full day's riding on the calendar for this coming weekend, and the potential for a full week not long after. At the end of those two excursions, I expect I'll have my final opinion and answer.
 
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