Oil drain bolt torque value?

Chunk

Chunk

Joined
Jul 12, 2017
Messages
87
Location
So-cal
Bike
2000 ST1100
My owners manual says the torque value for the drain plug is 27 foot pounds, that sounds excessive to me. 2000 st1100, by the way. Any thoughts, should i use that number? I would have thought more like 16 or 17 ft pounds. Thought I'd get some expert imput before i crank down on the aluminum threads. Thanks, Chunk.
 
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I'd go with what the manual says. I think the ST1300 is 22 ft lbs.
 
That has always seemed high to me also. On that particular fastener, and the rear brake caliper bracket stopper bolt, I use a calibrated elbow. On the drain plug, just enough to compress the aluminum crush washer. FWIW

John
 
John OoSTerhuis said:
I use a calibrated elbow. On the drain plug, just enough to compress the aluminum crush washer.
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As someone who's had to have his GL1000 oil pan helicoiled (with great success!) because someone really torqued the drain plug- I'd go with the above.

I might be tempted to check the torque after using the calibrated elbow for future reference. But compress the washer and there's no drip- you're done. I'd bet a lot of riders use a CE with no worries no drip no strip.
 
Calibrated Elbow here most of my life. Started using the torque wrench lately and I believe on several of my Honda's it is 22 pounds.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
Yeah, thanks all. I'm glad I'm not the only one to think 27 ft lbs is a bit much. I did just give it a good snug by the CE method. I'm guessing no more than 15 to 18 foot lbs, just a guess after wrenching on bikes for 40 years or so. I'll keep an eyeball on it for a few hundred miles just so i can get on top of it if it isn't tight enough. I think it is though. Thanks again gents. Chunk.
 
Well, I have to admit I referenced the ST1300 value but I don't think I ever used it lol... so, I'll conceed to the CE method.
 
The ST13 spec. is 22, and 14 for the final drive. Keep in mind, torque specs are for dry fasteners and your oil drain plugs are not, so reduce torque accordingly (20-30%). The idea is to start deforming the aluminum washer, and you're done. You'll find this is likely around 17 (lubricated), or for the experienced, the CE method. The FJR spec is 31 for the engine and 17 for the final drive. 31 has been known to strip out (obvious error in the manual). I'll say 27 is too high for an ST1100.

What I've done in the past is use 22 on all my bikes, with a Honda aluminum washer. I've backed off to 17+ and CE method too...... all it means is I don't replace the washer hardly ever.
 
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I've never used a torque wrench on a drain plug either. I just wrench it until it feels right...don't know how else to explain it. I seem to have a better feel with a socket...open ends and box ends just don't have the right feel for me. Never stripped out a plug or had one come loose.
 
Chunk said:
My owners manual says the torque value for the drain plug is 27 foot pounds, that sounds excessive to me. 2000 st1100, by the way. Any thoughts, should i use that number? I would have thought more like 16 or 17 ft pounds. Thought I'd get some expert imput before i crank down on the aluminum threads. Thanks, Chunk.
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The manual qualifies as an expert - until they print the wrong info.
 
I also pull the lower gray fairing on oil changes (makes it easier to get to the filter and I can inspect the exhaust headers - and I have a belly pan that covers the bottom of the engine) and run the bike a little bit after I'm finished. It is easy to see if it's leaking any once the bike warms up.
 
Gee... I have never used a torque value on my drain bolts... haven't lost one yet and haven't ever striped one out either! ;)
 
Note: If you are tightening the oil drain plug to Honda specs with a torque wrench and aren't cleaning the oil off the drain plug AND female sump threads you are considerably over torquing the drain plug according to long published specs. :eek: Threads must be DRY to use published figures for torque accurately.

Be honest. Are you torque wrench users cleaning your threads of oil? Hmmmm? :think1:
 
I've had the 2000 oil pan Helicoiled years ago because it got stripped (was much cheaper than a new oil pan installation)- anyway, box wrench and the calibrated elbow as above- I never use a ratchet and socket on the oil pan bolt.There's no need for that bolt to be super tight, just reasonably tight so it doesn't leak.
 
Erdoc48 said:
I never use a ratchet and socket on the oil pan bolt.There's no need for that bolt to be super tight, just reasonably tight so it doesn't leak.
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I can do the same with a fine tooth ratchet and six-point socket. Fast and convenient and fully compatible with the CE.
 
One place I found the manual to be over zealous on torque specs was the banjo bolts on brake systems. Be very careful as the drilling in those bolts makes them weaker than a standard bolt and your calibrated elbow needs to realize this.
 
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