New Water Pump...

[roginoz]

I found coolant seeping out of the water pump weep hole today; it looks like the water pump seal has gone out. The parts should show up early next week, and it doesn't look like too much of a job. The shop manual says to replace the whole unit, which makes sense if I'm taking things apart anyway. Looks like I'll be riding the KLR a bit longer.

 

[SupraSabre]

I found coolant seeping out of the water pump weep hole today; it looks like the water pump seal has gone out. The parts should show up early next week, and it doesn't look like too much of a job. The shop manual says to replace the whole unit, which makes sense if I'm taking things apart anyway. Looks like I'll be riding the KLR a bit longer.

Try to find some threads on replacing the waterpump. There is one really tricky part, if you blow it, you will be cussing yourself!

When removing the front engine cover (not the small "waterpump cover") you need to reach in and keep the waterpump sprocket and chain from falling off the shaft it is on.

There are several threads that talk about how to do it right!

And yes, I have replaced a waterpump before and managed to keep the sprocket where it was supposed to be!

 

[roginoz]

Thanks for the heads up, Bob. I'll check the forum before we get started.

 

[trm]

I've been dealing with intermittent coolant weeping and seems to be getting worse. I've read many threads on it and between the complexity and specific tools, this is probably beyond my ability. I still have a complaint with the service manual. The instructions never mention pulling the front engine case but Step 2 is "Press Out the Impeller" with the picture clearly showing this is done from the inner side of the engine case? Secondly, it lists required tools then says (not available in U.S.A)...perfect. The factory service manual has saved me $$$ over the years on maintenance but it really seems to drop the ball on this rather common issue.

Anyone had this done by a Honda dealer to provide a rough swag on number of shop hours / which parts so I can plug in my local rates? I'm pretty sure I had this done already about 7 years ago under warranty but I can't find the receipt and that dealer was absorbed by another and closed years ago.

I'd really like to be better prepared before I go in ask for an estimate from a service writer who's probably not even sure who or what an "ST" is exactly.

Thanks, TRM in SA

 

[roginoz]

There are USA only tools that replace those not available in the USA. They're also shown in the shop manual, and appear to be mainly bearing pullers and tools for pressing the new bearing. It looks to me like we'll be able to do the job without any additional tools. We already some generic bearing pullers, and a hydraulic press (don't know if we'll actually need it or not until we get into the job.)

The existence of USA and non-USA tools seems common in the Honda manual.

 

[Scooter]

When removing the front engine cover (not the small "waterpump cover") you need to reach in and keep the waterpump sprocket and chain from falling off the shaft it is on.

9th picture down in this thread shows the basic technique for keeping that sprocket on.

I need to order the parts for this job also. I've had a small coolant/oil spray showing up on my right saddle bag during the fall riding season...

 

[acedantinne]

I have the HONDA shop tool. The 1 needed to press in the mechanical seal in the case. Made a PVC pipe fitting to press out the water pump impeller.
Need them? PM me? I'll send them today?
I used a 6 inch vise to install 2 water pump seals. It is pretty much straight forward,.

 

[roginoz]

9th picture down in this thread shows the basic technique for keeping that sprocket on.

Thanks for the link, Scooter. Curt's photos are a real help. (The guy's still making a contribution after he's gone...)

I'm wondering if I should replace the clutch while I'm in there. (I have 110K on the bike.) I guess I'll need to order a gasket and some o-rings, regardless.

 

[SupraSabre]

Thanks for the link, Scooter. Curt's photos are a real help. (The guy's still making a contribution after he's gone...)

I'm wondering if I should replace the clutch while I'm in there. (I have 110K on the bike.) I guess I'll need to order a gasket and some o-rings, regardless.

I had to replace my waterpump on my '05 at 116K. I decided to swap out the clutch since I had bought a low mileage clutch off ebay. I couldn't believe the difference it made. Yes, you have that many miles on it, replace the clutch. You'll probably need a micrometer to measure all the plates and springs.

 

[dduelin]

I had to replace my waterpump on my '05 at 116K. I decided to swap out the clutch since I had bought a low mileage clutch off ebay. I couldn't believe the difference it made. Yes, you have that many miles on it, replace the clutch. You'll probably need a micrometer to measure all the plates and springs.

When I ride the 2006 with 67k and my 2005 with 158k I can't tell a difference in clutch operation. The 05 makes a bit more of that rumbling noise idling in neutral but as far as clutch take up point and feel at the lever I can't tell them apart. This amazes me because I do some slow speed work in the friction zone almost every ride and I've used the clutch in the friction zone a lot all this time. I know the clutch will need replacing eventually..... Aside from obvious slipping what else indicates replacement is coming due?

 

[SupraSabre]

When I ride the 2006 with 67k and my 2005 with 158k I can't tell a difference in clutch operation. The 05 makes a bit more of that rumbling noise idling in neutral but as far as clutch take up point and feel at the lever I can't tell them apart. This amazes me because I do some slow speed work in the friction zone almost every ride and I've used the clutch in the friction zone a lot all this time. I know the clutch will need replacing eventually..... Aside from obvious slipping what else indicates replacement is coming due?

All I can tell you is that I felt a major difference (it was really grabbing good vs mushy, and it wasn't from not flushing out the brake fluid) in my clutch when I replaced it at 116K. When I was replacing it, Byron and I took each of my old friction plates and measured them. There were several that were out of spec!

Most of my miles are on the freeways and in stop-n-go traffic (commuting 125 miles a day). My clutches get plenty of workout for sure.

 

[dduelin]

Well I'm glad there's none of that mushiness going on with either.

 

[SupraSabre]

Well I'm glad there's none of that mushiness going on with either.

My basic philosophy is, if I'm in there, I might was well replace things...like I'm doing to the 2010 with 38K. I had to remove the throttlebody due to a bad wax assembly. It was causing the bike not to restart when warm, without a lot of throttle action. So, while I'm in there, I might as well replace all of the coolant hoses.

And when I go into the '04#1 waterpump, (it only has 68K on it) I will check the friction plates to make sure they have plenty of material still on them. If it had 100K and I was in there, I would probably just replace them. I just hate having to go back into things to replace stuff when I could have done it previous and saved myself some later work.

 

[Blrfl]

Aside from obvious slipping what else indicates replacement is coming due?

The parts approaching their service limits would be the other indication, but watching for slip is probably easier.

--Mark

 

[dduelin]

Well, preemptive replacement before failure is good but there's some risk of breaking or screwing something else up when replacing stuff that's perfectly serviceable. I was just curious what symptoms might foreshadow the need to replace a ST1300 clutch.

 

[Scooter]

I'm wondering if I should replace the clutch while I'm in there. (I have 110K on the bike.) I guess I'll need to order a gasket and some o-rings, regardless.

Roger, I was wondering the same. I've got 148K on mine and I was going to pull off the plates to measure them. I'll probably replace them as long as I've got everything apart anyway. When we did Curt's clutch, the hardest part of the job was probably removing the gasket. He told me that he never changed the clutch on his 2004 that had 160K on it before he totaled it. The 2007 that we changed the clutch on had ~110K IIRC...

 

[Scooter]

I have the HONDA shop tool. The 1 needed to press in the mechanical seal in the case. Made a PVC pipe fitting to press out the water pump impeller.
Need them? PM me? I'll send them today?
I used a 6 inch vise to install 2 water pump seals. It is pretty much straight forward,.

I'd like to borrow those tools Bob but I'd like Roger to have first dibs on them since he's further along the process than I am... :bow1:

 

[SupraSabre]

Mileage may or may not be a factor. Depends on the type of riding one does. Like I said, my commute is very hard on the bikes in general. I'm seldom cruising for more than 20 miles at a time, then when I'm lane splitting, I'm constantly on the clutch to go up or down. So at 116K, the '05 was ready for a new clutch. Now, take someone that doesn't commute and most of their riding is miles of non-stop and the only time the clutch is engaged is for takeoffs and landings. That clutch could last 200K.

Commuting like I do, I see the bikes get beat up pretty good. I really had a hard time keeping my '05 in pristine condition, just ask my wife... Since getting the other bikes, I have see the '04#1, that I added 37K to, require oil seals along with the waterpump at 68K. The 2010 has actually been a good bike, knock on wood, but no major issues that weren't with the bike when I got it... the Wax Assembly for instance. The '04#2 seems to be a good workhorse, it has cosmetic issues, but mechanically seems to be okay, but I did replace all the coolant hoses on it. And when I begin to prepare it for sale, I'll go through and make sure all is well, except the cosmetic things aren't getting fixed.

So, like I also said, if I have to tear into something, like the throttlebody or waterpump, I'm going to take a look at all components exposed and decide if replacing is in order.

My suggestion is, if you are removing the waterpump on a bike with 100K on it, at least check the measurements of the clutch plates and springs. If you removed the throttlebody for some reason, check your hoses. That simple!

 

[Metalman]

Roger, Fred and I just rebuilt his '07 pump with common tools I had at the shop. Easy deal really....

 

[970mike]

I had my water pump replaced under warranty with 128000 miles on my ST, the clutch was not replaced or looked at as it was working good then and still working great. If is working fine why mess with it.

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