New to Motorcycles, Need ST-1100 Advice

Bell

Bell

Joined
Apr 20, 2025
Messages
1
Age
23
Location
Louisville, KY
Bike
ST-1100
Hi :)
I'm a younger dude who got really interested in motorcycles out of necessity, and after buying a cheap ST1100 I got very interested in specifically this bike. I use it as my daily driver, and haven't noticed any explicitly pressing issues.

I came here to ask some general questions. I'm really new to bikes in general, and I don't have any mechanic experience, but I'm really interested in trying to get this bike back into perfect condition.

Details about the bike:
*60k miles.

*Right turn signal is a little finnicky.

*Some plastics are missing, and the bike has been dropped a few times (only one of those times was me when I first got it, going down our steep driveway).

*The knob left of the dashboard for controlling the lights doesn't work.

*The clock to the right of the dashboard doesn't seem to work.

*Starts every time, usually needs the choke shut to start.

*When it starts it takes a minute or so to reach idle speed, at which point I can open the choke.

*Engine rarely makes strange noises. Sometimes I hear a light clunk when I first start revving, but not always. Is this a cause for concern?

*The bike seems to run hot very quickly, but after replacing the coolant the heat gauge has never gone past the half way point. A short 15 minute ride today (very hot out to be fair, 80f, but even on cooler days this happens) was enough to kick the fan on. Is this normal?


What I wanted to ask other than the more specific questions above; are most motorcycle repair places able to take good care of these bikes? And also, as a complete beginner, would I be able to repair it myself? I would prefer to get it back into perfect condition on my own, but I'm not sure if that's realistic. The engine doesn't have a lot of miles on it, and it to me appears to run perfectly, but the bike also doesn't seem like it's been well cared for.
 
The clunk is generally normal, these are shaft drive bikes, so there are a lot of gears and joints between the engine and wheel, and lots of opportunities for backlash (basically, small amounts of movements between the gears). A clunk here and there will happen.

Yes the fan will come on around halfway on the gauge. It won't take long, it's a fairly small engine. These bikes do get warm, you'll feel it in your legs if you're not moving.

I would try doing your own maintenance if you think you can, shops charge a bunch and there are likely some that won't work on a bike these old.
 
Welcome Bell! you will find answers to your questions very soon. I ride a 1300 so am not experienced with 1100s. I do know they are very reliable with few problems. Again, Welcome to the forum
 
Knob on the left is for adjusting the height of the headlight beam - from the back of it runs a cable to the headlight adjustment mechanism.
ST1100s normally require the choke (technically a fuel enricher) to be pulled down toward the rider until the bike warms up.
ST1100s can make some strange noises - don't worry about it.
Best source for bodywork is to go 'fishing' on EBay - but watch closely the quality of what is sold.
Honda shops will not touch ST1100s because of their age and 'general' MC shops know nothing about them.
Get Honda service manual and the Clymer ST1100 manual and figure it out yourself.
Plenty of advice and articles on this site - SEARCH is your friend.
The best thing you can do for a ST1100 is ride it regularly and don't tinker with it.
 
Bell said:
Hi :)
I'm a younger dude who got really interested in motorcycles out of necessity, and after buying a cheap ST1100 I got very interested in specifically this bike. I use it as my daily driver, and haven't noticed any explicitly pressing issues.

I came here to ask some general questions. I'm really new to bikes in general, and I don't have any mechanic experience, but I'm really interested in trying to get this bike back into perfect condition.

Details about the bike:
*60k miles.

*Right turn signal is a little finnicky.
Click to expand...
Common issue- sometimes opening the turn signal switch and spraying some CRC QD contact cleaner may help, at least temporarily (min e was bad enough to replace the switch, but I’m not sure if they’re still available new),
Bell said:
*Some plastics are missing, and the bike has been dropped a few times (only one of those times was me when I first got it, going down our steep driveway).

*The knob left of the dashboard for controlling the lights doesn't work.
Click to expand...
Never used mine, it’s a leveling knob I guess in case you have a heavier pillion of cargo and it’s weighing down the back of the bike- many have removed it and placed a voltmeter in its place.
Bell said:
*The clock to the right of the dashboard doesn't seem to work.

*Starts every time, usually needs the choke shut to start.
Click to expand...
If it runs fine after a short warm up, you’re good…if the idle is lower after it’s warm (and the enricher needs to be on even partially), you may have clogged pilot jets (common issue)- I think you’re fine the way you describe it.
Bell said:
*When it starts it takes a minute or so to reach idle speed, at which point I can open the choke.

*Engine rarely makes strange noises. Sometimes I hear a light clunk when I first start revving, but not always. Is this a cause for concern?

*The bike seems to run hot very quickly, but after replacing the coolant the heat gauge has never gone past the half way point. A short 15 minute ride today (very hot out to be fair, 80f, but even on cooler days this happens) was enough to kick the fan on. Is this normal?
Click to expand...
Most ST1100s run between 10 o’clock on the gauge and to midline- any more than that (like 1 o’clock) and the fan usually kicks on. Fan normally should not be in operation if you’re moving at speed as the ‘ram air effect’ forces air through the radiator. If hotter than this, any suspected air bubbles in the coolant lines?
Bell said:
What I wanted to ask other than the more specific questions above; are most motorcycle repair places able to take good care of these bikes? And also, as a complete beginner, would I be able to repair it myself? I would prefer to get it back into perfect condition on my own, but I'm not sure if that's realistic. The engine doesn't have a lot of miles on it, and it to me appears to run perfectly, but the bike also doesn't seem like it's been well cared for.
Click to expand...
You may have a tough time getting a dealership to work on these due to age. I’m no mechanic, but I did learn a lot with time and this website. I now service the bike myself, it’s not that difficult to be honest.
 
What year is your bike? There are a few changes in cosmetics which would be good to know when searching for Tupperware pieces.
From 1990-1995 the ST1100 was equipped with an oil bath 28 amp alternator and an oil filter cooler. 1992 -1995 ABS I was an option
1996-2002 was the second generation ST1100, it came equipped with a 40 amp air cooled alternator. An option was the ABSII model with linked brakes. There are other subtle differences but for the most part numerous parts are interchangeable over the years.
 
Try running a can or 2 of carb cleaner through it. Sea Foam is popular around here and B-12 is popular on another forum.

Most shops won't work on bikes 10 years or older and especially the carbs.

Lubricate the splines on the final drive every tire change.

As Uncle Phil says, the best thing for the ST1100 is to ride it. Don't worry about the miles, the motor/drive line last for over 100K miles easily.
 
Bell said:
*Starts every time, usually needs the choke shut to start.

*When it starts it takes a minute or so to reach idle speed, at which point I can open the choke.

*The bike seems to run hot very quickly, but after replacing the coolant the heat gauge has never gone past the half way point. A short 15 minute ride today (very hot out to be fair, 80f, but even on cooler days this happens) was enough to kick the fan on. Is this normal?

What I wanted to ask other than the more specific questions above; are most motorcycle repair places able to take good care of these bikes? And also, as a complete beginner, would I be able to repair it myself?
Click to expand...
1) and 2) sound backwards. It should take some choke (pull lever towards you) to start, and then after a minute you can push it back away from you. The choke should not be used once the bike has been idling for a minute or two.

3) If the bike is moving over about 40-45mph, your coolant gauge should stay well to the left of vertical. However, if you're moving slower than that, or stopped in traffic, then the temperature will rise fairly quickly. As long as the fan kicks in just past vertical, and the gauge doesn't climb any higher, you're OK, unless this happens while traveling over 45mph. One common issue with the coolant system is the hose that runs from the neck of the radiator cap to the overflow tank on the side of the bike. If that hose develops a crack or vacuum leak coolant will push into the overflow tank while riding, but after the engine cools down it can't create a vacuum to suck the coolant back into the radiator. Eventually the coolant level gets too low and inefficient cooling results. To verify the coolant is at the proper level requires removing the radiator cap (after it cools) and checking the level in the radiator, not in the overflow tank.

4) most places won't touch these bikes due to age, and you really don't want them to in the first place. If you're mechanically inclined, and willing to learn, you can get help here with anything you'd need to do to it. there are also writeups on some of the more common things that you can read for reference. We've been wrenching on these things since the last millenium, and are happy to help with any issues you might have.
 
If you have no mechanical experience at all, I would recommend finding a night school course to get the basics. YouTube can teach you a lot as well. Few hints from 45 years of mechanics, take pictures of the parts as you take things apart. Get yourself clear parts trays, use them and label your screws and parts with locations. Last on today's list wear safety gear, like nitrile gloves and safety glasses when cleaning stuff with harsh chemicals, you don't want to get cancer from toxic chemicals. One thought, Read the "blanking" manual. Oh yeah have fun. Gerard
 
dwalby said:
1) and 2) sound backwards.
Click to expand...
Not backwards. Choke shut = choke “on”.
Open choke = choke off.
He is using the choke to start.

His description about reaching idle sounds potentially backwards.
dwalby said:
*Starts every time, usually needs the choke shut to start.

*When it starts it takes a minute or so to reach idle speed, at which point I can open the choke.
Click to expand...
For mechanical clarity.
What you are calling choke is an incorrect description.
Rather than choking the air intake to draw more gas, the lever opens up fuel enriching valves too add gas to the mix.

“Takes a minute or two to reach idle”

When you say this, what do you mean?

Engine rpm increasing up to idle speed or decreasing down to idle speed.

Normally choke on/shut, fuel enriching on, the engine will rather quickly run much higher than idle speed and you cut back on the fuel enriching as much as you can while allowing the engine keep running.

If you wait for the engine to decrease down to idle speed before you cut back on enriching, you are allowing too much gas dumping in.

If you have to wait for the engine to increase to idle speed, something sounds not right.
 
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