"New" Rotella T6 5W-40 clutch slips

Joined
Jan 26, 2008
Messages
238
Location
New Port Richey, Fl.
Bike
'93 ST1100
Have used nothing but gallon jugs of Rotella T (now T6) 5W-40 in bikes for years, and from day one with the ST1100 when I bought it with 14,000 miles.

Last oil change I used what I thought was the same great Rotella T6 5W-40, but in a newly designed container. Same specs, different package. This was different than the prior T6 gallon jug. Bike now has 55,000 miles and shortly after the oil change I noticed the clutch slipping at times. This seemed to occur if I was cruising along in 5th, then dropped it down 2 clicks to 3rd for a pass. RPM's shot up as clutch slipped, and I would burp the gas, then RPM's would drop as clutch fully engaged. Thought it was an isolated incident, but it happens a lot. 2000 miles later, and I am going to try another brand of oil, probably Mobile1 Racing 4T. (EDIT) Now that I recall after looking at my old jugs, the prior T6 different jug design also caused similar slipping, but not nearly as bad. Two other old jugs used prior just showed Rotella T, not T6, and never any issues.

Anyone else have issues with latest Rotella?
Or, is it just time for clutch pack, but that seems too soon to me.

EDIT May 5, 2011:
Changed oil to mobil1 racing 4t.
Same thing, perhaps a little worse. Probably clutch springs as following posts suggest.

At least I now know that I can safely go back to my preferred oil of choice, Rotella T6 5W-40 full synthetic.

EDIT May 27, 2011:
Clutch springs did not cure issue. Suspect there is something going on with newer oil that meets new standards for cat converters that now come on some bikes, and might need to switch to oil with MA2 rating to prevent clutch slipping on some bikes. Just speculating on cause and cure. MA2 was created for the reason to counter drawbacks of newer oil causing more slippage.
 
Last edited:
check the label on back?
I have seen a new one..("resource conserving")... I'm assuming this crap is about the same as energy conserving!?
haven't had slipping, but switching gears sometimes have seemed sticky....and when I went to M1 MC oil...or amsoil
it seems to change gears more smoother....
 
How many miles on the clutch and what kind of riding?

I have seen a new one..("resource conserving")... I'm assuming this crap is about the same as energy conserving!?

Oils with crap in them have "CRAP" in the upper half of the API donut.

T6 isn't RC, which is a superset of EC.

--Mark
 
How many miles on the clutch and what kind of riding?



Oils with crap in them have "CRAP" in the upper half of the API donut.

T6 isn't RC, which is a superset of EC.

--Mark

55,000 miles, mostly 2-up, spirited, moderate engine breaking.

Photo's of jugs with newest version on left having larger pouring grip area.
 

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55,000 miles.

That doesn't seem like a lot for a clutch, but anything's possible, especially if you don't know how it was treated by the previous owner. I'd run a gallon of something else at the next oil change and see how it goes.

I have two gallons of T6 in the garage, one of which will go into my 1300 sometime in the next few weeks. I'll give this thread a bump if I notice anything fishy.

Photo's of jugs...

Those are probably the only photos of jugs you could post here without Joe reaching for the :d1:
:D

--Mark
 
From Wikipedia:

"The JASO T904-MA and MA2 standards are designed to distinguish oils that are approved for wet clutch use, and the JASO T904-MB standard is not suitable for wet clutch use."

The Rotella is rated JASO MA.

Bill
 
That doesn't seem like a lot for a clutch, but anything's possible, especially if you don't know how it was treated by the previous owner. I'd run a gallon of something else at the next oil change and see how it goes.
...

Those are probably the only photos of jugs you could post here without Joe reaching for the :d1:
:D

--Mark

Previous owner bought bike new in 1993 and rode it 14,000 miles over 15 years. Older couple that also owned a Victory Dealership in Ft Lauderdale, but had to finally sell the ST to me due to ribbing by all the Victory customers that knew about him owning the ST. He had to trailer it up north to ride.

Other posts seem to think the clutches should last nearly forever on the ST's. One of the strongest parts.

Hopefully new different oil will cure all, and I will post results after a few thousand test miles.

Felt a little dirty posting photos of jugs..
 
Put in a gallon of the new jug just before moonburger. Stopped to check on a HD on the side of i70 on the way home. Sort of came off annoyed that an ST stopped. Launched it back on the road no slipping. 49k and rotella is the only thing this bike has seen since new.

Nice jugs...:)
 
My St1100 clutch began slipping in a similar fashion - the clutch springs had weakened over time and needed replacement. Being that the springs are held in a compressed condition they can take a set over time. This is probably what has happened and by changing the oil it allowed the problem to show up with fresh oil.

Dan
 
I'd try the Dino version of Shell Rotella first.... easy to do, and cheap. Or try the dino 4T oil comes in a 4.2 liter jug.
 
I use T6 as well in my connie if you look it is a JASO MA oil meaning that it is a confirmed motorcycle oil far as the Japanese are concerned I have a really hard time believe that the oil is your problem, I personally have 1986 concours that I have tried lots of different oils in and what I have found is that sometimes if I pushed the oil to far I would have some issues especially with non-synthetic oils. I used to use 4T Mobil 1 but I just refuse to pay what they want for oil.
Todd
 
I can hope it is the oil, since that is an easy fix.
Hope they added something different to this latest batch that maybe none of you have tried yet.
But, if not oil, then comes the hard work....
So I do hope like many other products that used to be good, the oil changed as well..

I had planned on tearing the bike down the few weeks we have of next winter, to replace 18 year old timing belt, upgrade to 40amp, water pump, and clutches, so hopefully, if it is indeed clutch springs or discs, they will not deteriorate very fast.
 
Replacing the clutch springs is not at all difficult - drop the RH exhaust headers and the clutch cover comes right off - Heavier than stock springs are available from EBC for less than 20 bucks or just get new Honda replacements. If your clutch is slipping now with Rotella T6 it is just telling you that you need new clutch springs - changing oil is not going help you at least not for very long. The clutch should not slip running Rotella T6.
 
Given the bike's age, I think Dan's probably onto something with the clutch springs. They're pretty easy to pull out and measure.

--Mark
 
Yep, all the posts seem to go along with what I always thought about Rotella T, excellent choice to use. Just thought maybe different jug, different stuff in jug?

Will replace clutch springs, as Dan has done with similar symptoms.

At least threads like this with a lot of replies should reassure anyone that uses a product that it works great, so they should have no worries.

Thanks for the info.
Rob
 
A year or so ago when Rotella T 5w-40 changed formulation to T6 I went over to the Shell distributor in town and asked to see what product literature they had on T6 and what they knew about the changes. The neat thing was the Shell rep I talked to owns and rides a Honda Shadow and was familiar with oil use in motorcycle engines. The biggest change was what is already mentioned - the JASO MA certification - which implicitly endorses wet clutch suitability of use. I recall the other significant change was a drop in ZDDP levels. I came away confident Rotella T6 was and is a still a good oil to use in modern liquid cooled motorcycles.

I am sorry to hear about the clutch problems but think it coincidental to the oil change and not a cause of them.
 
Changed oil to mobil1 racing 4t.
Same thing, perhaps a little worse.

At least I now know that I can safely go back to my preferred oil of choice, Rotella T6 5W-40 full synthetic.

Ordered the needed parts for Spring replacement from Bike Bandit, as I got to use AMA 10% discount and AMA BB $10 gift card. (plus main reason for AMA was FREE roadside assistance for bike, car, trailer, anything else you or your family owns or uses, all at no extra charge).

(prices reflect 10% AMA Discount)
GASKET, CLUTCH COVER 1 $13.50
GSKT, SLAVE CYLINDER 1 $4.12
GASKET, EX. PIPE 2 $7.84
GASKET, RR. MUFFLER 1 $11.35
EBC CSK Clutch Spring Kit 1 $8.10
Subtotal: $44.91
Shipping & Handling: $8.95
Tax: -
Total: $53.86
Gift Card: ($10.00)
Balance: $43.86

Might not need it all, but if I do, I want it now.

Thanks for the tips on clutch springs and continued recommendation to use Rotella T.
 
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