My spark plugs at 66,246 miles
- Thread starter W0QNX
- Start date
Kevcules
Site Supporter
I believe that port injection is what most engines have, and similar to what our engines have (throttle body) where the fuel is sprayed into the intake and travels by the valves.
Direct injection sprays fuel directly into the cylinder, bypassing the valves so cleaning agents wouldn't help clean them.
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Very educational information.
Erdoc48
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- Myrtle Beach, SC/ Sometimes Colorado
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OK, thread drift (short term)- I have a Cadillac SRX with direct injection- I’ve been using some CRC intake valve cleaner from time to time via the intake (there’s specific instructions on how to do it on the aerosol can)- when I pulled the intake at 90K miles to swap the plugs and coils as part of routine maintenance, there were small amounts of deposit on the intake valves but no major carbon crusting present (now it has 115K on it)- some makes like Audi and VW have more substantial issues with the carbon buildup and may require using walnut blasting with the valves closed to clean the valve intake surface. With port injection, usually the fuel itself will clean the valves, and you can also use something with PEA in it like Gumout Regane or Techron (Chevron product)…when I pulled my bike carbs for the overhaul years ago, the intake valves looked perfect (that was ~ 35K miles).
As for W0QNX at 365K miles, I’d say you’ve done great maintenance wise- very few of our bikes will make it that far (and I mean we will out age the bike)- I’ll be lucky if I get any of mine up past 100K miles.
As for W0QNX at 365K miles, I’d say you’ve done great maintenance wise- very few of our bikes will make it that far (and I mean we will out age the bike)- I’ll be lucky if I get any of mine up past 100K miles.
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diferg
Dan & Ingrid
while working in a ship-yard I prefered Marvel Mystery oil to silicone-based oils in my air tools. Just squeezed a generous amount into tool at the end of the day (make sure to wrap exhaust of tool in a rag for first use It is messy.) MMO users seemed to have less tool failures than silicone oils. perhaps it was more consistent lube practices?
A Bob Clampett CartooooooooOOOOn!
"Help, Cecil, help!"
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- Coquitlam British Columbia Canada
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- 2009 ST1300
So I bought two bottles of MMO based on this posting. I cannot get the cap off either of them! It says push while twisting but all I get is a clicking sound. I reckon it's child proof, but I'm a 57 year old engineer who have opened thousands of bottles and stuff! I likely have to cut the top off with a knife which means no more sealing that bottle. *****! I may actually just send it back in protest...Seafoam is a cleaner with a little bit of lubricant, MMO is a lubricant with a little bit of cleaner, they both play well together.
These are two piston's out of matching 2008 Yamaha TW200's that I purchased new.
At Approximately 6,000 miles I replaced the cylinder base gasket(s) (recall) and decided to replace the piston's at that time, just because....
My wife's bike didn't use the MMO, because like you, she didn't like the sound of it....
My bike used an ounce or so every fill up.
Both bikes were ridden by me (to keep the mileage close) and on the same roads and speeds etc.
I'll let you figure out which one was mine, and which one was hers.
I run 2 ounces (5 hour energy bottle) of MMO in every tankful in the ST.
Both piston(s) were just wiped off with a red shop rag, and have not been cleaned further.
RiderRon
Site Supporter
Last bottle I bought, had the same issue. I always seem to retighten the cap too tight as well after use.
Also had the same problem with a gallon of acetone but that system was poor design.
I used channel lock pliers to get them loose and tighten until I get one click and no more.
Also had the same problem with a gallon of acetone but that system was poor design.
I used channel lock pliers to get them loose and tighten until I get one click and no more.