I'm English. Which BTW, has no bearing on the fact that I have a defective Shinko Verge front tire. Interesting way to offset the subject.
My experience with Shinko Tires.
- Thread starter ASPC
- Start date
I'm English. Which BTW, has no bearing on the fact that I have a defective Shinko Verge front tire. Interesting way to offset the subject.
Definition of VERGE
brink, threshold; something that borders, limits, or bounds: such as; an outer margin of an object or structural part… See the full definition
www.merriam-webster.com
"
(3)
British : a paved or planted strip of land at the edge of a road : SHOULDER"
As long as I can remember I never heard pull over on the verge. I would think the white line is the border of the road and I thought in England they call the shoulder of the road "hard shoulder". It just sounded strange to me . Whatever.
Over 10,000 miles on each tire. I have used both Verge and Raven tires. You may have a defective tire. Never said you didn't. I changed tires that I was told "it's defective " only to find out that the bead had a slight tear. Air seeps into the cords and causes problems. Any perferation in the tires liner will cause a problem eventually.
I ran 2 sets of Shinko Verge 011 on my ‘06 and never had any of the aforementioned problems. The tires ran true and never squared off like a certain overpriced and overrated brand (ahem, I’m looking at you Mr. M). Excellent grip wet and dry.
Both sets were shop installed and on the last set, I did notice the tech cleaning the wheel at the bead contact point.
Both sets lasted over 16k kms.
A good “bang for your buck” tire.
YMMV
Both sets were shop installed and on the last set, I did notice the tech cleaning the wheel at the bead contact point.
Both sets lasted over 16k kms.
A good “bang for your buck” tire.
YMMV
This thread is on the verge of going down a rabbit hole.
Don't you merge on the verge? 
Tried them once but was not impressed but I'm really fussy about the way a tire feels in the turns. I did not think the Shinko turned in well, was a bit stubborn changing directions. That's just me and I took them off before I had a chance to see how they wore.
Your search engine broke? MIne says:
"Yokohama Rubber Co - the Shinko Group purchased motorcycle tire technology and molds from Yokohama Rubber Co. in 1998. Shinko Tire then began producing motorcycle tires under its own brand."
I like them.
Tom
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pointlessYour search engine broke? MIne says:
"Yokohama Rubber Co - the Shinko Group purchased motorcycle tire technology and molds from Yokohama Rubber Co. in 1998. Shinko Tire then began producing motorcycle tires under its own brand."
I like them.
Tom
After replacing wheel bearings twice, pads and rotors, just shows how much guessnosis cost.
I guess he didn't believe it could be the tire.
Sometimes it's the tire, other times it's not.
Local Kawasaki shop was having issues with a vibration above 40 mph on a couple police motors.
They replaced the steering head bearings, and adjusted them, replaced the fork oil, brake pads, tried two different tires (also Michelin), fiddled with the preload adjustments, checked the fork alignment, took apart and cleaned the calipers, replaced the wheel bearings, and just kept throwing money and parts at these bikes hoping something would fix them. No luck, vibration at anything above 40 mph.
I discovered what was causing the vibrations without removing or replacing a single part.
The spools (bobbins) on the brake rotors were jammed up tight with brake dust, sand, and road grime.
A simple flange head nut and bolt set up, through the spools, spun them while I sprayed them clean with brake cleaner.
No more vibration.
The spools being jammed up, turned the rotors into a warped piece of metal, riding on the brake pads, shaking the front end like a dog shaking off water.
Sometimes you just have to think outside the box when your problem solving stuff.
And yes, the spools on your ST would benefit from doing this every few months.
Local Kawasaki shop was having issues with a vibration above 40 mph on a couple police motors.
They replaced the steering head bearings, and adjusted them, replaced the fork oil, brake pads, tried two different tires (also Michelin), fiddled with the preload adjustments, checked the fork alignment, took apart and cleaned the calipers, replaced the wheel bearings, and just kept throwing money and parts at these bikes hoping something would fix them. No luck, vibration at anything above 40 mph.
I discovered what was causing the vibrations without removing or replacing a single part.
The spools (bobbins) on the brake rotors were jammed up tight with brake dust, sand, and road grime.
A simple flange head nut and bolt set up, through the spools, spun them while I sprayed them clean with brake cleaner.
No more vibration.
The spools being jammed up, turned the rotors into a warped piece of metal, riding on the brake pads, shaking the front end like a dog shaking off water.
Sometimes you just have to think outside the box when your problem solving stuff.
And yes, the spools on your ST would benefit from doing this every few months.
How do we know it was really a bad tire, or just the person who mounted/balanced and seated the new tire did a better job?
I'm not buying the different length explanation. Sounds fishy to me. }<))))>