Metal silt in radiator bottom.

This was some of the crud that was on my thermostat on a 'new to to me' 2012, with 18k miles and in really good shape

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Garden Hose to top hose is what I meant - worked great, but thermostat should be removed
Flush.jpg

Decent amount of water coming out if you remove the two bolts to drain the engine block
Flush 2.jpg
 
At least *some* of that crud is likely from the paint on the radiator itself.

Many comments about paint coming off of the radiator, when removing hoses, thermostats and the like.

I'm not saying that's the only mess in there.
 
Top hose. Noted. Good pics.
I've got paint flaking off the radiator inlet/outlet too.
One and all - I appreciate the help!
 
I pulled the thermostat and found more silt pooled in the housing. Tomorrow I'll do the flush. Condo life. (.) (.)
 
You will need to remove all hoses from radiator, and remove black paint from inside all pipes.
Be sure you clean, and check seal on radiator cap now, as the metal could have damaged the seal.
@ GitSum,
I see some wires on the left side of your bike that are not in the correct spot, which could damage your harness and ignition etc.
 
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An excellent tool for removing the paint from inside the radiator inlet and outlet

IMG_0173.jpegan auto Battery lug and terminal tool


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There was also aluminum embedded in the surface of the radiator cap seal as Igofar predicted and it scraped off with a determined fingernail, no damage.
 
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Still in progress and I learned a couple of tricks I'd like to share.
One, cut off about an inch of rubber tubing, split the end and insert the coolant drain bolt. It's something to hold on to while reinserting the bolt in the block.
Two, add a half handful of uncooked rice to a dirty coolant reservoir with water and shake for a few minutes.
Amazing results.
:)
 
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A blue mechanic's paper towel over a socket, then pushed onto the fastener will also hold it in place too ;)
Removing the overflow tank, looping the hose down onto itself, then throwing in a hand full of BB's, and a cup of CLR cleaner will have your tank looking brand new.
Is your tank still white, or is it yellow or orange from too much heat?
You may want to consider cleaning your idle wax valve assembly too.
 
Igofar said:
Is your tank still white, or is it yellow or orange from too much heat?
You may want to consider cleaning your idle wax valve assembly too.
Click to expand...
Tank is still reasonably white.
It looks like the wax valve is just a pass through for coolant and it’s been functioning perfectly so I’ll take my chances with that. The oil cooler is a low spot that worried me. The flow chart shows it fed directly from the pump housing so I rigged up a connector.
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The return hose goes nonstop back to the T housing so I flushed with the thermostat and cover removed. Some dilute coolant and light residue emerged. Small effort with big peace of mind.
Now the (not so?) bad news. I shined a light up behind the T stat and saw an oil leak. It looks to be a pinched gasket on the left head cover. Enough for today.
 
The valves are in spec, no leaks from the head covers. I took a good look behind the t-stat and it looks to be about 17 years of build up, no pooling of oil just some dirty residue on the sides. Now the fun part: Do Not flush your cooling system and let it sit with water in it. The impeller rusts.

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I’m thinking this may be the answer for cleaning the crankcase cover:



IMG_0184.jpegIs there other steel in the system? I hope not.
 
Evapo-rust is good for cleaning off rust, however, the moment your rinse it off with water, it will flash rust before your eyes, if you don’t treat the surface with oil!
Do you want to put oil in your coolant system?
I’d be more concerned about the rust on your bearing/oil seal spring-ring/and mechanical seal now.
Some of these service jobs cannot be sat down and walked away from as you are finding out, and must be completed from start to finish to prevent stuff like this from happening.
 
Igofar said:
Evapo-rust is good for cleaning off rust, however, the moment your rinse it off with water, it will flash rust before your eyes, if you don’t treat the surface with oil!
Do you want to put oil in your coolant system?
I’d be more concerned about the rust on your bearing/oil seal spring-ring/and mechanical seal now.
Some of these service jobs cannot be sat down and walked away from as you are finding out, and must be completed from start to finish to prevent stuff like this from happening.
Click to expand...
Fortunately that’s the old impeller, bearings and seals that need replacing anyway. I want to get the aluminum clean. Good info for future though. Thanks!
 
Napa sells an aluminum brightener that will etch the aluminum to look new, however, it is an acid and the directions must be followed to the letter.
Navel jelly, or a plastic brush and CLR cleaner may be safer for you.
 
We've been busy with guests for 3 weeks and they departed on Sunday. On Monday I checked out a repair shop with good feedback. With crankcase cover and parts in hand, we discussed replacing the water pump . Three days later I had the cover back, pump bearing still flush with the case because they listened and supported the inner race while pressing in the impeller, and to exactly 24mm protrusion. $60 labor. MotionMoto in San Diego. The bike is up and running, plastic goes on tomorrow, early am.
 
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