Install a voltmeter

It's even more fun to wire electrical items when you have a Can-Bus system (like my BMW). The bike has no fuses - at all. Everything is controlled by the computer. Weird, still getting used to it...
 
I also installed one of these on my adv bike, it displays volts and amps alternately , all I wanted was a USB so for me its a bonus, now I cannot stop looking at it LOL
 
I had a Gammatronix monitor permanently wired to my VTR1000F battery; as a bike I wasn't using frequently, the always-on monitor allowed me to see when a trickle charge was needed, and it changed modes when riding to check the charging voltage.

https://gammatronixltd.com/epages/b...b6-4572-89a1-e89006e78fbe/Products/BIKE-E-12V

I have been planning to add a voltmeter to my bike (and my other bike!), and am glad to see something like this. Reading numbers on a meter is all very well but a 'go no-go gauge' for voltage to me feels more intuitive and easily understood. But, if it's programmed to go from green to flashing green at 13.2V*, is that too low a threshold for the ST1300? As in, is the flashing likely to be the default mode?

Edit: Gammatronix's page says:

OffLess than 11.5V
Red (blinking)11.5 – 11.8V
Yellow (blinking)11.8 – 12.1V
Green (blinking)12.1 – 12.5V
Green (constant, normal usage)12.5 – 13.2V
Green/Red (flashing, excessively high voltage)15.0V and above

I've asked them to clarify the green/red threshold voltage and will edit again when I hear back. [Edit #2 - they replied within 30 minutes!]
 
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Not a fan of the red/green/yellow light type of voltmeters. Some can still be green sub 13V and if that is at better than idle RPM, chances are your charging system or battery has an issue.
As previously posted, there are 50ish choices of digital meters. Wire directly to the battery, with an inline fuse on POS side and switch. Prefer that way as to check battery status, before any start up.
Recent update install on a VFR.
 
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A Go - NoGo gauge would be an amp meter like was put in older autos, which showed either the alternator producing more than load required or discharging from battery to support the excess load.
The voltmeter does very similar readings by either above or below normal battery readings and gives you more information on the health of your charging system.
For instance on a weak charging system you will get a lower voltage reading when unloaded and really low when loaded. I have seen this when a diode starts to fail, but charging still produces enough to keep battery charged. Where its shows its colors is mostly when the battery discharges overnight but keeps charged during day when in more use. Frequently the battery is blamed for not holding charge when it is being discharged by the failed diode overnight.
One benefit from the red-amber-green system is you don't have to "read" it, I like as few dash board distractions as possible, but the numbers are something I would prefer. Yes I contradict myself there.
 
Well I'm a simpleton and just have an older version of this on both bikes. Gives me enough information :rolleyes:

s-l500 (1).jpg
 
I have been planning to add a voltmeter to my bike (and my other bike!), and am glad to see something like this. Reading numbers on a meter is all very well but a 'go no-go gauge' for voltage to me feels more intuitive and easily understood. But, if it's programmed to go from green to flashing green at 13.2V, is that too low a threshold for the ST1300? As in, is the flashing likely to be the default mode?
In normal operation with the engine on it should be slow flashing green. A slow flash has never been a distraction and I have installed various brands (Clearwater, Signal Dynamics, no-name Amazon) of these LED voltage monitors on my bikes. As I posted earlier in this thread, I am a fan of this type. They take up very little real estate and couldn't be more flexible in mounting locations. You want it solid green with key on and engine off and flashing after engine start up to indicate the alternator has ramped up system voltage to normal running values.
 
BlueFire Motorcycle USB Charger, USB C+QC 3.0 USB Motorcycle Power Socket, SAE to USB Adapter Cable, USB Fast Charger Motorcycle Handlebar Clamp Power Adapter with Voltmeter

I put one of these on my bike. The meter is .2 volts low compared to my multi meter but simple to install.
 
+1 on the Sparkbright. I had an Eclipse on the ST1100 and bought another one for the R1200RT. Works well and can be read in direct sunlight, and it automatically dims at night. I bought a waterproof digital voltmeter a few years ago, it washed out in direct sunlight so it didn't work for me...
I too would suggest to keep it simple...
Compared to an instrument or display, the LED can be mounted with the least damage to the fairing...
Also easier to waterproof then a 4-digit, 7-segment display unit...
Ambient temperatures would be my next concern, might exceed 70°C/158°F quickly when leaving the bike parked in the sun for some time...
Interestingly are the most items offered at the 'usual suspects', now some BT transmitters hugging the terminals, requiring a phone app to read... so much about "simple"...
 
I'm only worried about the battery voltage when I'm not driving... Winter season typically kills my battery due to self discharge (radio, car-kit). There is no strong winter season here, so I never prepare for winter, the frequency of rides just goes down. No ride for 2-3 weeks means the battery is flat. Couple of repeats and it's dead..

Now if I could only program the installed Nokia Car-kit to call me when the battery is getting low...
 
Now if I could only program the installed Nokia Car-kit to call me when the battery is getting low...
Just feed it from a switched circuit...
(but I can relate to the drain by the car stereo station memory... I'm on LiFePO4 batteries now; worst case: wait ~45 minutes till fully charged again...)
 
I installed a voltmeter on my Honda Shadow cruiser motorcycle. I chose one from Amazon that was made to mount to a 1 inch diameter round handlebar, so that's where I put it.
I don't know where I would put such a thing on an ST 1300.


Three quick comments:

I wired mine directly to the battery, but I installed a toggle switch that cuts off all the power to that new instrument. That way I can check the battery in my garage even when the key is out just to see if it needs some time on the trickle charger/battery tender.

The volt meter I bought also came with two other features a double USB "type A" charging port for phones and other electronics, and an outside temperature gauge.

The USB port works well enough but I suspect it draws significant power, so that's another reason why I installed the toggle switch to cut off power to this accessory when I don't need it.

Secondly, the outside air temperature gauge is useless during the daytime -- it heats up artificially high due to sunlight.

And day OR even at night, the heat from the engine will come up and give a false temperature reading when I'm idling at red lights and stop signs. The Only time the outside temperature gauge is accurate is when it's dark or very cloudy outside and
I am riding, not stopped.
 
Secondly, the outside air temperature gauge is useless during the daytime -- it heats up artificially high due to sunlight.

And day OR even at night, the heat from the engine will come up and give a false temperature reading when I'm idling at red lights and stop signs. The Only time the outside temperature gauge is accurate is when it's dark or very cloudy outside and I am riding, not stopped.

The cheapies I have shown above have an outside temp sensor on a long wire, I have placed mine on the bottom of the inside of the mirror pod. Yes, the temp shows an increase if the engine is hot when static, but otherwise shows an accurate enough temp when moving, sunlight or otherwise, verified by comparing to many public temperature displays :giggle:
 
I installed a voltmeter on my Honda Shadow cruiser motorcycle. I chose one from Amazon that was made to mount to a 1 inch diameter round handlebar, so that's where I put it.
I don't know where I would put such a thing on an ST 1300.


Three quick comments:

I wired mine directly to the battery, but I installed a toggle switch that cuts off all the power to that new instrument. That way I can check the battery in my garage even when the key is out just to see if it needs some time on the trickle charger/battery tender.

The volt meter I bought also came with two other features a double USB "type A" charging port for phones and other electronics, and an outside temperature gauge.

The USB port works well enough but I suspect it draws significant power, so that's another reason why I installed the toggle switch to cut off power to this accessory when I don't need it.

Secondly, the outside air temperature gauge is useless during the daytime -- it heats up artificially high due to sunlight.

And day OR even at night, the heat from the engine will come up and give a false temperature reading when I'm idling at red lights and stop signs. The Only time the outside temperature gauge is accurate is when it's dark or very cloudy outside and
I am riding, not stopped.
My outside temperature gauge packed up years ago. I didn't repair it and I don't miss it.;)
 
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