*No Static at All?
*Freaking Magic
I had a Gammatronix monitor permanently wired to my VTR1000F battery; as a bike I wasn't using frequently, the always-on monitor allowed me to see when a trickle charge was needed, and it changed modes when riding to check the charging voltage.
https://gammatronixltd.com/epages/b...b6-4572-89a1-e89006e78fbe/Products/BIKE-E-12V
Off | Less than 11.5V |
Red (blinking) | 11.5 – 11.8V |
Yellow (blinking) | 11.8 – 12.1V |
Green (blinking) | 12.1 – 12.5V |
Green (constant, normal usage) | 12.5 – 13.2V |
Green/Red (flashing, excessively high voltage) | 15.0V and above |
In normal operation with the engine on it should be slow flashing green. A slow flash has never been a distraction and I have installed various brands (Clearwater, Signal Dynamics, no-name Amazon) of these LED voltage monitors on my bikes. As I posted earlier in this thread, I am a fan of this type. They take up very little real estate and couldn't be more flexible in mounting locations. You want it solid green with key on and engine off and flashing after engine start up to indicate the alternator has ramped up system voltage to normal running values.I have been planning to add a voltmeter to my bike (and my other bike!), and am glad to see something like this. Reading numbers on a meter is all very well but a 'go no-go gauge' for voltage to me feels more intuitive and easily understood. But, if it's programmed to go from green to flashing green at 13.2V, is that too low a threshold for the ST1300? As in, is the flashing likely to be the default mode?
I too would suggest to keep it simple...+1 on the Sparkbright. I had an Eclipse on the ST1100 and bought another one for the R1200RT. Works well and can be read in direct sunlight, and it automatically dims at night. I bought a waterproof digital voltmeter a few years ago, it washed out in direct sunlight so it didn't work for me...
Just feed it from a switched circuit...Now if I could only program the installed Nokia Car-kit to call me when the battery is getting low...
Secondly, the outside air temperature gauge is useless during the daytime -- it heats up artificially high due to sunlight.
And day OR even at night, the heat from the engine will come up and give a false temperature reading when I'm idling at red lights and stop signs. The Only time the outside temperature gauge is accurate is when it's dark or very cloudy outside and I am riding, not stopped.
My outside temperature gauge packed up years ago. I didn't repair it and I don't miss it.I installed a voltmeter on my Honda Shadow cruiser motorcycle. I chose one from Amazon that was made to mount to a 1 inch diameter round handlebar, so that's where I put it.
I don't know where I would put such a thing on an ST 1300.
Three quick comments:
I wired mine directly to the battery, but I installed a toggle switch that cuts off all the power to that new instrument. That way I can check the battery in my garage even when the key is out just to see if it needs some time on the trickle charger/battery tender.
The volt meter I bought also came with two other features a double USB "type A" charging port for phones and other electronics, and an outside temperature gauge.
The USB port works well enough but I suspect it draws significant power, so that's another reason why I installed the toggle switch to cut off power to this accessory when I don't need it.
Secondly, the outside air temperature gauge is useless during the daytime -- it heats up artificially high due to sunlight.
And day OR even at night, the heat from the engine will come up and give a false temperature reading when I'm idling at red lights and stop signs. The Only time the outside temperature gauge is accurate is when it's dark or very cloudy outside and
I am riding, not stopped.