Indicator problem st1100 2000

The switch is the well known weak spot.
Nah, they're just very well neglected items... :rolleyes:
Especially among the "just leave it outdoors all year" and the "hey, I pressure wash that thing" cults...
Its like with shifter linkage or brake pedal pivot: a tiny bit of TLC, just once a year and those items work f l a w l e s s l y for decades...
 
Explain, please. :unsure:
I can't really, electrons are a mystery to me.
And obviously many others.
Just like the OP my indicatorS were troublesome and only a new switch fixed it. In my ownership the bike was never jet washed, neglected or left outside, it was used but never abused. The switch was old and buggered, it happens, I seem to remember changing plenty of auto switches in the 70's and 80's on cars too and these were never jet washed!
Upt.
 
Just like the OP my indicatorS were troublesome and only a new switch fixed it.
Well, that doesn't contradict what I said:

Anything that affects both sides equally is in or before the signal switch.
The second half of my statement (not said before because the first half applies to the OP) is:

And anything that affects the two sides differently is in or after the signal switch.
 
This was my experience as well- the switch plugs in a location that requires removal of the ‘false tank’ cover and you need to remove some parts to get to it (just aft of the steering head essentially)- it’s a bit of pain but quite doable- I replaced mine on the 2000 and all has been good since then. I never had to do this on the 94 which surprises me.
looks like it was switch gave it good clean and squirt of wd40
 
All sorted and thanks for all the help it was the switch I gave it a good clean and squirt of WD40 and its winking away well thanks again. It as been cold here so guess might have had something to do with it
I've seen that on one of my ST1100s before - when it got really cold, it just didn't want to work properly.
Glad you got it sorted!
 
I've seen that on one of my ST1100s before - when it got really cold, it just didn't want to work properly.
The opening story still doesn't make sense...
The t/signal relay is load depending (bi-metal)...
If the switch doesn't close in either direction, the relay won't see any load, hence won't "click"...
 
Unless there are hidden "dummy" load resistors intended for LEDs.
Well, that's an information kept secret from us...

Always the issue in tech support... we need to know ALL to provide efficient assistance...
(have you done something to it?... Nah!... yeah right...)
 
The opening story still doesn't make sense...
The t/signal relay is load depending (bi-metal)...
If the switch doesn't close in either direction, the relay won't see any load, hence won't "click"...
It's strange indeed. But it is definitely temperature dependent. When I thumb my turn signal, it won't actually start flashing for several seconds. But it will light up when I move it to the left or right...I can make it work manually. [NOTE: I see the dash indicator flash, can't confirm the signals are actually working too.] Not sure how that happens if the relay is the ONLY closed circuit path. But flicking the switch closes a contact and stays closed until you cancel it. That sends electricity through the relay primary.

Once the juice flows in the circuit, I think the relay heats up just enough to soften the bi-metal and get it to click. I find the more I use it, the more responsive it becomes. I'm sure I have an electrical diagram somewhere, but I'm just supposing here.

Anyhoo, the short answer is, open it up, deox it, and lube it (not with grease). As evidenced, tangling with Honda wisdom is usually a futile effort.
 
It's strange indeed. But it is definitely temperature dependent. When I thumb my turn signal, it won't actually start flashing for several seconds. But it will light up when I move it to the left or right...I can make it work manually. [NOTE: I see the dash indicator flash, can't confirm the signals are actually working too.] Not sure how that happens if the relay is the ONLY closed circuit path. But flicking the switch closes a contact and stays closed until you cancel it. That sends electricity through the relay primary.

Once the juice flows in the circuit, I think the relay heats up just enough to soften the bi-metal and get it to click. I find the more I use it, the more responsive it becomes. I'm sure I have an electrical diagram somewhere, but I'm just supposing here.

Anyhoo, the short answer is, open it up, deox it, and lube it (not with grease). As evidenced, tangling with Honda wisdom is usually a futile effort.
Its all sorted cleaned it and put some wd40 spray and its now working thanks anyway
 
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