Indicator problem st1100 2000
- Thread starter pete1960b
- Start date
ST1100Y
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As it seems highly improbable that all 4 bulbs fail simultaneously, and giving your location I'd suspect some corrosion down the wiring pathway...
fuse box contacts (visually fuses might appear "OK" but is there actual current flowing?)
relay connector
bulb bases & sockets
mains connector blocks (behind the steering head)
(colored) wiring diagrams can be found here: http://www.st-riders.net/index.php?topic=3908.0
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Uncle Phil
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Just curious - does your hazard flashers works (assuming you have that feature over there)?
I just cant work out why the switch seems to working as you can hear it swap from side to side in relay and cancels on switch but not flashing indicators anywhere. They were working fine before
No does not have hazzard lights
The flasher relay is behind the body panel by the right lower leg. But the first thing I would check is the handlebar switch. Open it up and clean/lube the contacts in there. There are times when I turn on a turn signal and it takes several seconds for them to start working, usually in the cold. That's usually from the contacts getting gummed up and oxidized.
Uncle Phil
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If you can get some electronic contact cleaner spray, that might be your first option.
Just put a rag over the fairing pocket and gas tank shelter and spray through the 'slot' and work it back and forth.
Also, if you have a test light or a multimeter, I'd check the voltage at the turn signal relay to see if there as any power coming to it/out of it.
Just put a rag over the fairing pocket and gas tank shelter and spray through the 'slot' and work it back and forth.
Also, if you have a test light or a multimeter, I'd check the voltage at the turn signal relay to see if there as any power coming to it/out of it.
cheer i will give switch good clean its an odd one as can hear the relay clicking and working as i operate the switch
The switch is the well known weak spot.
They wear and fill up with crap over the years.
It's worth taking it apart and trying to clean it with contact cleaner, I had to replace mine with a new old stock.
If you do take it apart do it somewhere that will be easy to find all the bits when it goes ping!
It could obviously be the relay too but I doubt it.
I don't know if there's any new oem hanging around still.
Upt.
They wear and fill up with crap over the years.
It's worth taking it apart and trying to clean it with contact cleaner, I had to replace mine with a new old stock.
If you do take it apart do it somewhere that will be easy to find all the bits when it goes ping!
It could obviously be the relay too but I doubt it.
I don't know if there's any new oem hanging around still.
Upt.
Going to have a look at the switch as it works on the relay if that makes sense. I have checked all bulbs etc and Relay clicks and cancels
I've never had to mess with that relay so I don't know if its just one of the cheap automotive signal relays that you can buy for a few bucks anywhere, or a Honda-specific part. If you can hear it clicking, I guess its possible that you can flow enough current to engage the relay, but not enough to illuminate the bulb. Since none of the lights are working, the relay is the single point failure item, so that's where I'd look first. If the switch is the culprit, then I'd suspect the relay wouldn't be clicking. However, the current flow is limited by any resistance in the path, so check for corrosion in the fuse panel and elsewhere in the wiring path as well.
edit: to clarify my comment about checking for corrosion in the wiring path, the part of the path that's common to all 4 bulbs would be the first place to look. The fuse panel and the fuse itself would also be high on that list. Try swapping another fuse of the same amperage just to rule out the fuse.
edit: to clarify my comment about checking for corrosion in the wiring path, the part of the path that's common to all 4 bulbs would be the first place to look. The fuse panel and the fuse itself would also be high on that list. Try swapping another fuse of the same amperage just to rule out the fuse.
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Pete, I had the exact same fault.
Sprayed the contact cleaner in. Not a good fix but some improvement noted.
Changed the relay, made no difference.
Disassembled switch....ping..ping....cleaned and reassembled, short lived and marginal fix.
New switch, everything in life was wonderful.
I do recall the switch was a bugger to get back together, from memory there's a locater on the bar itself and the choke will fight you.
A good winter job.
Good luck.
Upt.
Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
FWIW, relay is a 'Honda' part.
STFlips
Site Supporter
A relay that "clicks" usually has power to the coil, but that does not mean the relay contacts are any good. A volt meter will pinpoint the issue.
yeah, after looking at the schematic, the switch is the last thing in the circuit between the relay and the bulbs, so its very suspect. My initial guess was the relay was between the switch and bulbs, but its the other way around.
edit: what I was getting at here, but didn't say it clearly enough is to start at the fuse with a multimeter, and see where your voltage drops occur between the fuse panel and the bulbs. As STFlips mentioned, using a voltmeter to test the voltage at various points along the path between the fuse and the bulb will eventually reveal where the critical voltage drop is located. The relay contacts are one source of drop, the path across the switch is another, and the path from the bulb to ground.
You may not have access to a good metal surface to measure the voltage at some points in the trace, what I've done in the past to work around that is pierce the wire with a thin needle and attach the meter lead to the needle. That's a good non-destructive way to get access to locations that might not be easily accessible, and wrap the hole made by the needle with electrical tape after removing the needle.
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Well done for the interpretation of the wiring diagram, it makes some sense of my less precise approach.
It is a strange fault when it occurs, I found if I held the switch to the desired side it would finally fire the indicators into life, this was obviously unacceptable and I didn't want to be checking the indicator......er.......indicator light when I should be looking where I'm going.
Once the new switch was fitted it cured the fault instantly. I think the problem today might be the good'ol unobtainium issues.
Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
In all my times with 'blinker' issues, it's always been the switch.
I think living in a mild climate has its benefits for parts longevity. I don't have any of the issues commonly reported here, so I don't get to have all the fun you guys have troubleshooting these types of problems.
OK, now that I've said it out loud, let the failures begin!!!!
OK, now that I've said it out loud, let the failures begin!!!!
Erdoc48
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- 94/00/04 STs, FSC600
This was my experience as well- the switch plugs in a location that requires removal of the ‘false tank’ cover and you need to remove some parts to get to it (just aft of the steering head essentially)- it’s a bit of pain but quite doable- I replaced mine on the 2000 and all has been good since then. I never had to do this on the 94 which surprises me.