I'm finally there... the refurbed '94 ST1100 will get the upgrade...

Installed the new swingarm today, new rear rotor, aligning the final drive, fixed a few small items...
Threw the wiring with the 40A fusebox in, connected everything temporarely for testing... bike gets power, engine cranks :thumb:
Will have to check if we've a spark later after carb rebuild...
 

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Well, one thing though:
After removing the 26A alternator<>VRR wiring and attaching the OEM 40A harnes + fuse-holder + black 2-pin connector (going to the one with the black/silver & white/silver lead), am I now still left with one excess black/silver wire coming from the bike's harnes...
 
John OoSTerhuis said:
Use it for a switched power source for an electrical farkle.
Click to expand...
Will have to check if the loose one isn't the one coming from fuse D
With all the strobes and siren lots of "farkels" to supply though...
(already have a massive mains relay there :cool:
Thinking about adding another keyswitch enabling the signal strobes with ignition off...)
And the red/white wire for an unswitched source.
Click to expand...
Already plugged into the red starter relay socket ;)
 
Well, seems we have a runner...
Tidied up the wiring, pulled the carbs to replace a couple of items in there, rolled the '94 to the gate for ventilation, tethered it to the IV-stand, second push on the button... vrooOOOmmmhh... :cool:
Steady voltage all around... :thumb:
Dunno what the culprit was with the 26A system, but voltage dropped <11V in idle, flipped to ~13V when reving >2000rpm...
The resin on the VRR shows a crack running around the rim of the housing, no corroded or burned wiring anywhere... I guess it just aged...
 

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SupraSabre said:
You should see the looks my wife gives me anytime I take the tires from the front door to the garage! :well1:
Click to expand...
I was able to have my wrecked Ducati ST2 on our back patio for near 2 yrs !
THEN I even had newly painted panels and fairing parts in our dining room - man do I have a GOOD woman or what? :thumb::woohoo:
 
During carb sync the tach showed some intermittent behavior...
So out came the cluster to receive a replacement; all cleaned and shined up, brief test: OK :thumb:
 

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While waiting for a friend's 1300 (due for an oil change) I started sketching the new livery...

IMG_20200516_162715.jpg

Took me a second or two that they're referring to a near side and an off side in their markings... :biggrin:
 
Well, fixed up an adapter for the EC-spec adjusters...

IMG_20200523_101626.jpg


Only the chosen one have wisdom about this opening... ;)

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As smooth as I can get them...

IMG_20200523_121837.jpg

Interesting how slight changes of idle mixture on one, impact the vacuum readings on the 3 other carbs... ;)
Took like 4 adjustment runs till I got idle settings and sync together...
Smooth now, no rumble, no unruhe, instant throttle response...


Now dressing up, think I'm going for a flashy look :cool:

IMG_20200523_183646.jpg
 
Nice bike, nice upgrade) was thinking about swapping an alternator too (also was bleeding little bit with oil, but not much), but for now just replaced headlights with LEDs.
btw, what is the size of the voltmeter? thinking about getting aftermarket one.
 
I'm just thinking about not removing headlight adjustment knob, but install voltmeter instead of the clock... Not sure if this marine voltmeter fits on the right side
 
ST1100Y said:
Instrument, bezel, bracket, bolts... all OEM police spec equipment...
Click to expand...
I have got an idea to sacrifice clock and use it's case as a bezel for voltmeter... All that i need for that - only round body of voltmeter, like this: link from aliexpress
just need to know it's diameter - my bike still is locked in the garage due to it's owner is still under lockdown in Europe ...
 
honda-st1100p-paneuropean-1996-t-austriakph-meter-panel_bigecz9p41f__0200_d6db.gif



Don't have one at hand right now (bike is at the shed at other side of town...)

IIRC do the require a 52mm bore (like the VDO Vision Cockpit instruments)
 
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