How to clean & lube gearshift linkage?

Joined
Apr 1, 2006
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2
Location
Pottstown, PA
Got caught in a torrential downpour a couple weeks ago, and yesterday discovered that my '03 ST1300 was having difficulty shifting from 2nd to 3rd (and vice-versa.) After a bit of searching here I discovered that I wasn't the first with this issue, and that cleaning and lubricating the ball joint on the gearshift linkage will likely solve the problem. My problem is that I'm not sure how to get the offending parts R&Red.

Several posters have stated that this is a pretty simple job. Unfortunately, I can't find any reference to the linkage in the service manual. I'm not much of a mechanic, so I really don't want to start in on something without a recipe (so to speak.) If anyone has couple minutes to help, I'd be forever grateful.

Thanks!
Dave McWilliams
 
Put the bike up on the centerstand, then get down on your hands and knees and locate the shift lever and its linkage. You should see two rubber boots covering the (ball joint) pivot points.

Gently peel the rubber boots back and spray a lubricant into the pivot points, You'll see where to spray after the points are exposed. Might try flushing them out first with a good dose of something like WD-40, then lube with white lithium grease (in an aerosol can). wiggle/twist the linkage as you spray to try get a uniform coating of lube up into the pivot points.

While your in there, wouldn't hurt to hit whatever other friction points you see with the white lithium. (Wipe off excess lube to reduce dirt build-up)
 
Thanks, Fred. A couple of other guys actually removed the linkage in order to do a thorough clean up. I'll try it first without actually removing it and see what happens...
 
Thanks, Fred. A couple of other guys actually removed the linkage in order to do a thorough clean up. I'll try it first without actually removing it and see what happens...

Looks like it would be easier to lube if removed (could definetly do a better job of cleaning it too.) Just looked and the boots aren't as accessible as they were on my 1100. ;)
 
For ST1300, The ball joints are permanently attached to the lever and pedal. The dust covers are the same for both ball joints. $5 each from ronayers.com
To replace them you must remove the linkage assy. from the bike. One of the ball joints is LEFT hand thread, so you can loosen the jam nuts and un-thread the connector rod. Then you can replace the dust covers. I have the dust covers (and the complete pedal-lever linkage) let me know if your interested. willy
 
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Thanks for the help

I had almost the identical problem Monday: tough shifting to 1st, tougher shifting to 2nd, and could not shift to 3rd. I had gone to work on Saturday (~65 miles round trip) and had no problems with the shifter then. 36 hours sitting and this problem came up. The bike has 41000+ miles and is a 2003.

After researching this board, I took the shift linkage and lower ball joint off. The joint was almost completely frozen. Some PB Blaster to free it and white lithium grease to keep it clean and it's back in operation. I just put everything together and took it for a test ride: I haven't shifted this easily in almost a year. Incidentally, I rode through a heavy and prolonged rainstorm the previous week, the first for the year.

Thanks to everyone for writing up your problems, you saved me a trip to the shop. My question: what other joints or areas need regular lubrication? This shifter issue caught me by surprise.
 
42,000 miles, stiff gear change, so I removed the lower fairing, then the gear linkage. Ball joints seem ok, but the pivot collar has no lube and is gunked up. I think that is the issue with mine. A good clean as regrease should sort it.
 

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Here's a link to an illustrated article that explains how to remove, clean, and lubricate the shift lever linkage on a ST 1100.

ST1100 - Shift Linkage Tune-up

The ST 1300 shift lever linkage design is identical in design & function, but my experience has been that it is more difficult to get access to, and to remove, the shift lever linkage from the ST 1300. Eventually, I decided to clean (using WD-40 solvent) and lubricate (using a lightweight grease injected by syringe) my ST 1300 linkage while it was still in place on the motorcycle.

Michael
 
When you lube those little joints, try not to get a petroleum based lube on the rubber cover, it will deteriorate and then you will have no protection from dirt and water. WD40 is supposedly not harmful to rubber, but it is also not a good long time lube. It is barely possible Honda was clever enough to make lubricant resistant rubber/neoprene/whatever covers, but I don't know if this is the case.
 
When you lube those little joints, try not to get a petroleum based lube on the rubber cover,
So after 160,000 miles and 14 years of riding, I removed my shifter pedal with attached linkage and cleaned/lubed up. I was able to get it out while the bike was on the center stand and wasn't to hard at all to get it out.
The gear shift pivot collar had old dried (factory grease) embedded. The 2 ball joints moved fairly well but the factory grease was dried and hard packed into the ball joint. A good cleaning and lubing of the 2 ball joints was done.
So on page 1-23 of the service manual it recommends ( multi purpose grease Shell Alvainia EP2 or equivalent) for the "gear shift pedal rod ball joint" and "gear shift pedal pivot" So my concern is obviously this is a lithium / petroleum base grease which is recommended in the service manual. So I worked some of that grease into the joints and put the rubber dust boots back over the 2 ball joints.
Why would Honda recommend this lubricant if it is prone to deteriorate the dust cover boot?
Side note: I was not experiencing any problems shifting but was getting bored and thought it would be a good project since this bike is on the factory grease in the linkage.
 
So I worked some of that grease into the joints and put the rubber dust boots back over the 2 ball joints.
Why would Honda recommend this lubricant if it is prone to deteriorate the dust cover boot?
Side note: I was not experiencing any problems shifting but was getting bored and thought it would be a good project since this bike is on the factory grease in the linkage.
My point was to lube the joint, not the rubber. Your grease of choice should go on the metal parts - that's what you are lubricating, with some packed around the moving parts to hold that grease inside. I meant you should probably not fill the rubber boot with grease, though, many compounds (like Viton - used in O-rings) are petroleum lube resistant. And I do not know if the boot is grease resistant. I've seen some accordion style boots rotted to pieces and others that look fine - with both covered in old oil and grease.
 
I have the 2010 1300A and attempting to lube the gear change linkage - but - there's no way I can get to the 12mm nut holding the Gear Leaver in place, unless I remove the oil filter and oil cooler unit directly below the 12mm nut, there's no mention of having to do this anywhere...

I've checked all the threads relating to lubing the linkage but I have a stack of stuff in the way that's stopping access, tried a Ring and Open end spanner but there's no room to get in there and turn it, any suggestions would be appreciated.

DSCN0160.JPG

Well that was interesting, I managed to undo the 12mm pivot BOLT HEAD at the back of the frame and job now done. :cool:
 
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