Help!! Front brakes dragging after new pads installed.

Joined
Jun 2, 2012
Messages
137
Location
Eastern Ontario
Bike
'05 ST1300
2001 ST1100, NON ABS
I installed oem pads, both sides. Went through the steps to clean and lubricate before installing. Wheel off and back on for new tire as well.
Followed the tightening and torque sequences for the wheel install.
All buttoned up, the r/h brakes drag.
Off and on four times. Everything spun freely as long as the caliper bolts weren't snug. As soon as they were, big drag evident. Just that little bit of difference. Pushed the pistons back into the bores too.

Ideas?

Thanks.
 
Does the 1100 have the different sized axle spacers like the 1300 does? Correct pads (if they're different fronts and rears like the 1300s are?) Have you changed them before without problems? When things like that happen to me, the first thing I consider if what I might have done wrong, and usually am right!
 
Big thanks for putting what bike you have at the top of your post. I'm not familiar with 1100's, but common problems on the 1300's are the pads are not seated in the clips properly, or the wheel spacers were installed on the wrong sides. Both sides says you are talking about the front - did you follow the procedure to tighten the nut, bounce the shocks, and then tighten the lower clamp bolts?
 
Try this.
With the front wheel off the ground, loosen the caliper mounting bolts, spin the wheel hard then apply the front brakes quickly.
Do this 2 or 3 times, and the last time after you spin and brake don't let go of the lever until you tighten the caliper bolts.
Hopefully this will help to center the calipers.

As SMSW says it's also important to first bounce the front end with the axle pinch bolts loose to align the forks.
 
Pushed the pistons back into the bores too.
did the pistons retract fully, or almost fully? If you have too much fluid in the master cylinder, preventing the pistons from retracting fully because of hydraulic lock, that could cause the symptom you're reporting. Not sure it would manifest as only one side dragging though, but its an easy thing to check.
 
I had some brake rub too after installing new pads. This is a common issue. After I put some miles on the new pads, rubbing stopped. I also like the tip presented here:
 
2001 ST1100, NON ABS
I installed oem pads, both sides. Went through the steps to clean and lubricate before installing...........

not certain what you mean when you say you’ve cleaned and lubricated.......

Is it possible the caliper is seized up on the rh side? If the caliper is not sliding properly on its mounting pins then replacing the pads might result in a thicker new pad rubbing the disk. I’d disassemble, clean and lubricate the pins and on reassembly ensure the caliper was moving properly on its mounts.
 
Thank you all for your replies!
I will try the techniques suggested above.
I followed the tightening and bouncing sequences to the letter, as I do on my 929 as well.
As far as spacers, there is one only on the r/h side, the other (l/h) side is the speedo drive.
When I took the old pads out, I cleaned the calipers, cleaned the pistons and lubed them with brake fluid. I also cleaned and lubricated the slide pins.
This is the third time I've installed new pads and the first I've had any issues this way.
 
For what its worth I had this happen when I replaced my rear tire. Mechanic loosed everything up and re tightened. It was better but still not 100 percent right because my rear brake disk was very hot to the touch. Plus I could see the shiny part of the piston showing when at rest. That was letting me know that the piston wasn't fully retracting back all the way into their bores. After about 600 miles on it it is much better and only a small "shiny" part of the piston is showing. I've got a theory that when you force those pads in with your big screw driver the pistons don't like that.
 
Make sure the little prongs on the brake spring are in the right place relative to the pads. last time I put new pads in, I got one pad on the wrong side of the prongs and it made the rear brake drag on the disk. FWIW
 
Some things to check.

The fluid level in the reservoir. There may be too much fluid in there, if the fluid was topped up between pad changes. It may not explain why only the right hand caliper drags though. Check it anyway, it is easy to do.

I don't know if you slackened the front axle bolt when doing the bouncing procedure. It is possible to get the right fork leg out of line if the right hand pinch bolts are used to hold the axle while tightening the axle bolt. The axle bolt should be free to draw the axle through the forks and clamp everything together. If you don't have the hex key large enough to fit the left hand end of the axle, then push the axle in as far as it will go and use the right hand fork pinch bolts to hold the axle still while tightening the axle bolt. Then release the pinch bolts to bounce the forks.

Make sure the pad spring is the correct way round - I don't know if your bike has 3 pistons on the caliper or just two, or whether it is possible to insert the pad spring for the 2 piston caliper the wrong way round. But if it has 3 pistons, it is definitely possible to get them the wrong way round. Then the wide strip of the pad spring goes closest to the pistons. Note the little tags that @BikerRic just mentioned as I was typing this !

Check that the pad retaining clips are correctly seated, and that the tongue at the forward end of the pad backing plate is seated properly in the retaining clip. The photo shows the pad and silver retaining clip for the rear wheel. But you get the idea.

View attachment 245393

Note that rear pads (as above) have a little notch in the tongue. Front pads do not. But note that the retaining clip for the rear has a little ridge in it which fits in that notch. If you have accidentally put the rear retaining clip in the front caliper, it will make it impossible for the pad to retract and will drag. (I seem to remember that the front and rear pads have the same size backing plate so checking which one is where may be a good idea - although the rear pads have much more friction material when new).

Check that the pad pin is not rusty, bent, ridged.

With the pads out, check that the caliper can move back and forth - grab it and push it in towards the wheel. It should move easily. Let go. Make sure it doesn't move by itself (too much grease on the slider pins). Pull it back and let go. Ditto. If it doesn't move easily, then you need to investigate the slider pins.

Do the pistons push in using just thumb pressure ? (Clean the pistons before pushing them in though). If not, check the tiny recuperation port in the master reservoir, under the silver disc at the bottom.
Good points regards the clip positioning, I will check that as well. Thank you!
 
Well, wouldn't you know it!
The only thing I didn't think to check and what a couple of you mentioned. When I pulled the bike cover off, I saw what I thought was a couple of drops of water on the fairing storage cover. That ain't water, its brake fluid. Sure enough, when I looked at the sight glass it was full.

Funny thing is, I don't remember topping up. Maybe that little difference in thickness between the OEM pads I just put in and the DP pads I'd used the last two times.

At any rate, thank you all for taking the time to reply.

I'll siphon off some fluid and check back.
 
Draining off brake fluid did not do it. I've pulled the pads and pin out, checked the clip, reassembled and still it drags hard.
I'm wondering if it's possible I've switched spacers with the rear axle?
Or are the sliders seized?
Stumped......
 
I'm wondering if it's possible I've switched spacers with the rear axle?
Before doing any dismantling – if you could take some close ups of the brakes and axle areas maybe somebody here could spot something not obvious to the untrained eye. You can bet I'd be taking pics before because uh... um... to help others with my years of experience. Yeah that's the ticket! :rofl1:
 
Draining off brake fluid did not do it. I've pulled the pads and pin out, checked the clip, reassembled and still it drags hard.
I'm wondering if it's possible I've switched spacers with the rear axle?
Or are the sliders seized?
Stumped......
put the right caliper back on with pistons retracted fully and no pads, examine the alignment between the rotor and the cutout in the caliper to make sure its centered. If its centered, then your problem is likely in the pistons, either they're not retracting after applying the brakes, or you're not getting them fully retracted before putting the pads in.

If its not centered, then there's some kind of issue with the spacers.
 
put the right caliper back on with pistons retracted fully and no pads, examine the alignment between the rotor and the cutout in the caliper to make sure its centered. If its centered, then your problem is likely in the pistons, either they're not retracting after applying the brakes, or you're not getting them fully retracted before putting the pads in.

If its not centered, then there's some kind of issue with the spacers.
Thanks, I will do that.
 
Photos would be good.

You would know if the sliders were seized if you did that check i described in the next to last paragraph of my long post above.

I am deliberately not mentioning the usual brake issues as you said that it is only the right caliper that is dragging. Is that still correct ?
Only the right hand caliper dragging, yes.
 
Oh yeah, did you ever determine if the slider pins are lubricated properly? That would cause the pads to bind if they can't move freely on the pin.

Now you've triggered a memory from a few years ago when I had a similar issue with one side dragging a little. I think what ended up being the problem was the hole in the pad backing was somehow binding on the pin. Don't recall the exact details (sucks getting older) but I eventually removed the cause of the binding and that fixed the problem. Double check the pin to make sure it doesn't have old brake dust accumulated on it, and make sure its properly lubricated.
 
Ok, so I pulled the pads out of the caliper and reinstalled it on the fork leg. When I peered down along the disc, I could see that it was offset.
I do believe the slider pins are seized. How do I disassemble them?. I would prefer NOT to remove the caliper from the brake hose.
 
Ok, so I pulled the pads out of the caliper and reinstalled it on the fork leg. When I peered down along the disc, I could see that it was offset.
I do believe the slider pins are seized. How do I disassemble them?. I would prefer NOT to remove the caliper from the brake hose.
how severe is the offset? I've never actually looked at it so I don't know if its supposed to be perfectly centered, I would think some offset it OK as long as its not too close to rubbing on the rotor on either side. If its close to rubbing then you need to investigate the spacer to see why its not aligning better.

you would have pulled the slider pins out to remove the brake pads, so I'm confused about your last sentence. If you're referring to the caliper pistons, are they moving freely? If not then that could also be the cause of your problem, they aren't retracting properly after you release the brake lever.
 
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