H4 LED - 2018 Evitek, F2 replaces G6

The fan does separate from the bulb. It has been a while since I looked at it, but when I installed it I couldn't make it work. I was hoping just to tape it. The silicon tape doesn't stick to anything except the tape itself. You wrap it to get a good seal.
 
ST Gui said:
I don't have F2s but I thought the fan could be removed and the bulb/socket whatever mounted in place with the wire bale. Then the boot installed as usual and the fan connected to the bulb through the boot - no cutting required. Yes/no?
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I think he's asking about him putting the F2's in his motorhome and not his motorcycle :)
 
The trimming I referred to was to allow the bulb portion to seat, i.e., not push back against you as you try to insert. Some boots are large and cover the entire bulb, i.e., no hole, those would have to be slit or otherwise cut to allow the fan to exhaust and wire to exit....
 
Obo said:
I think he's asking about him putting the F2's in his motorhome and not his motorcycle
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jspringator said:
I installed the F2 in low beam Hella Ecodes on my motorhome. I couldn't get the rubber boots back on.
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I was aware of that but thought there might be some similarity with the installation of the rubber boot.
 
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So I was poking around and came upon this thread and stopped in to see what the latest thoughts on LED headlight conversions were and stumbled on this gem.
ST Gui said:
Imagine the hole for the bulb in an ST1100 headlight assembly (reflector) is the diameter of the outside of the ring above (excluding tabs). If not for all three tabs - the ring and anything attached to the inside of it - would fall into that hole. The tabs provide support (the main function) and orientation of the bulb.

Now imagine the hole in the ST1300 headlight reflector is the diameter of the inside of the adapter above. There's no way the adapter with two or even all of its tabs modded would fall in. The 12 o'clock tab provides orientation but is not needed for support as the 1300's reflector supports the bulb by the rim and not by the tabs. So the adapter is superfluous in a 1300.

That's the difference between our 1100 and 1300 assemblies where the bulb fitment is concerned. The former needs all three tabs and the latter actually doesn't need any (but the 12 o'clock makes orientation simple).
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It's been a long while since I worried about the abomination Honda inflicts on their owners with those heinous 45/45W bulbs on our bikes, but I never realized (forgot?) that the tabs on the 1100 headlight shell actually keep it from falling in? I always wondered the point was of those adapters until I read this.

I resolved this problem early in the life of my 1100 by removing the shell and used a Dremel with a cutting bit to make new notches at the conventional H4 tab positions; leaving the 12 o'clock notch untouched. My headlight is a universal recipient of OEM 45/45W or H4 bulbs, No trimming or adapters required. Of course if you do this, remember to block off the interior of the shell with a layer of duct tape or the like to keep the cuttings out of the shell. Ask me how I know this... :)

I had intentions of doing the same for the 1300, but I remember getting the shell out of the 1100 was a lot of work and was considering going the tab cutting route in the short term.

So I guess I won't need the adapters for the 1300 then?
 
STRider said:
So I guess I won't need the adapters for the 1300 then?
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What Obo said. Depending on the bulb you could just bend the tabs back instead of cutting them off. I do the light surgery. Like the Doc said 'It's just a couple of snips'.

Making the shell a universal recipient is a good idea. Some members have gone so far as to get an RHT Euro spec headlight assembly for the 1300. I think that's really the best way to roll. I don't know if there's an equivalent for the 1100.
 
"Making the shell a universal recipient is a good idea. Some members have gone so far as to get an RHT Euro spec headlight assembly for the 1300. I think that's really the best way to roll. I don't know if there's an equivalent for the 1100."

There IS an equivalent for the 1100. They are becoming rare for delivery from a dealer. The European breakers should have them. An H4 fits right in, no muss, no fuss.
 
I need some help please. I bought these bulbs on Amazon thinking these would fit my ST1100.
FDB2771C-DB2C-4789-8AB5-18E20A6F615F.jpeg

I took off the windshield and the panels beneath it so I could see/get at from the top. Not much room but I could fit a mirror through to see tab orientation. I discovered that the 2 smaller tabs are closer together than the bulbs that came out. I ended up cutting those 2 tabs off. Got the left bulb in and working. Went to the right side got that bulb in then realized the bulbs were not square to the housing. The area where I cut the 2 tabs off fit just nicely in the housing and drop into the housing about 3/16th’s of an inch which, of course, throws the aim of the bulb off. so after a few choice expletives I opt to put the halogen bulbs back in. I find that with the led bulbs cocked a little and the raised shoulder on the bulb made it darn near impossible to undo the retaining clip, wire thingy, bale. Old bulbs are back in and of course a couple screws don’t want to start well because the tab the clip nut attaches to is slightly bent this changing the angle enough that a couple screws wants to keep cross threading when trying to get them started. I was able to clean the threads up (running the screw in from the back side works well as a thread chaser) and with out tightening any screws until all were started on a given panel then tightened everything up. Then find a clip nut dropped down in side the faring to be lost for ever. I’m so frustrated at this point that I am not taking all that and more to hunt for this clip nut.

So that’s how my evening went. So my question is after this nice long story is - what led headlight bulbs work well and fit properly? I’m in Canada so what’s available where you are may not be available here.

2001 ST1100A
 
First, take a deep breath. Second, is the issue rotational, straight-in depth, or an up-and-down tilt?

There are various fixes, depending on the problem. LED 9003s tend to focus differently.
 
Here is your current best option insofar as type of retrofit LED bulb. Price is up to your search ability.
NINEO 9003 H4 LED Bulbs | Halogen Replacement 6500K Extremely Bright All-in-One Conversion Kit | 360 Degree Adjustable Beam Angle.

To install any non Honda bulb, i.e. a H4/9003 bulb, in to a North American ST1100 headlamp, you have to cut off the two lower alignment tabs. As a result, you also need shims to keep the bulb from falling in to the housing after these two lower tabs are cut off. Here is an example of these shims- H4 Bulb Adapter Rings for Honda Motorcycles

These shims are not required on an ST1300.
 
Larry Fine said:
First, take a deep breath. Second, is the issue rotational, straight-in depth, or an up-and-down tilt?

There are various fixes, depending on the problem. LED 9003s tend to focus differently.
Click to expand...
The bulb tips in as the large tab not cut off sits properly the lower portion with the tabs cut off slips deeper into the housing. It looks like Andrew above has the solution, shims.
 
Andrew Shadow said:
Here is your current best option insofar as type of retrofit LED bulb. Price is up to your search ability.
NINEO 9003 H4 LED Bulbs | Halogen Replacement 6500K Extremely Bright All-in-One Conversion Kit | 360 Degree Adjustable Beam Angle.

To install any non Honda bulb, i.e. a H4/9003 bulb, in to a North American ST1100 headlamp, you have to cut off the two lower alignment tabs. As a result, you also need shims to keep the bulb from falling in to the housing after these two lower tabs are cut off. Here is an example of these shims- H4 Bulb Adapter Rings for Honda Motorcycles

These shims are not required on an ST1300.
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The shims look like the cure. I wonder if they’ll work with the led bulbs I have. The lights you suggest have a large bulbous end. That won’t fit with the dust cap will it?
 
The end is the heat-sink. My bulbs are also the previous generation but if there has been no design change, the heat-sink separates from the base by rotating it. You install the base first, then the boot, then reinstall the heat-sink. I also no longer have an ST1100 to give specific and precise advice so I can't guarantee that you won't have to trim the boot. I did not have to on my ST1300 but have read that some needed to on the ST1100, others said they did not have to.

Wait for some ST1100 owners to respond with the answer on that.
 
Phyer Phyter said:
The bulb tips in as the large tab not cut off sits properly the lower portion with the tabs cut off slips deeper into the housing. It looks like Andrew above has the solution, shims.
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There is a simpler, cheaper, and cruder fix: a length of solid #16 wire laid across the socket in the two unused notches.

I think spiderman302 posted a picture of it somewhere in this thread.
 
@Phyer Phyter , yes, for the ST1100 you need those "shims" or "adapters".
See post 516 on previous page for an explanation of this : https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/h4-led-2018-evitek-f2-replaces-g6.162067/post-2268199
I ordered my adapters or shims, from amazon, from a canadian reseller. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07M5HYSMQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also ordered my led replacement headlights from Amazon. I ordered the Katana. I should receive them soon.
Sorry to hear your troubles. Yeah. Put that aside for now. You had enough frustration already.

Chris
 
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I am looking to buy a pair of Evitek F2 or M1 bulbs. Can anyone give me the names of the vendors who are selling re-branded Evitek bulbs on Amazon?
Thanks in advance!
 
 
 
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