Gerbing Heated Gear Controller

[Willsmotorcycle]

Greetings to all you polar bears out there. I know it's early to think about cold weather, but if I don't do it now it will linger.

I have a older two knob controller, never found a clean way to mount, it just hung from the tank bag, thinking about going with the wireless.

What are you doing to control your heated gear and where do you put the controls?

 

[Uncle Phil]

I use wired WarmNSafe units and made an aluminum bracket to Scotchlock 3M DualLock to the top of the clutch master cylinder and hang it on.
That way it is in the 'breeze', easy to see, and easy to adjust.

 

[Sadlsor]

Same issue with my old Widder controller.
Obviously, we need it to be accessible, so I used a short velcro strap like those used to tidy cables, as for computers, entertainment centers, etc.
I just strapped it around a handle or d-ring on my tank bag so I could reach out and it wouldn't dangle and beat up the tank.
The power goes into a Powerlet receptacle near the front of the bike.

 

[Willsmotorcycle]

I use wired WarmNSafe units and made an aluminum bracket to Scotchlock to the top of the clutch master cylinder and hang it on.
That way it is in the 'breeze', easy to see, and easy to adjust.

I saw you used the phrase Scotchlock before, Velcro? any chance for pictures. My setups have been neither easy to see or adjust. How are you doing Phil?

 

[Willsmotorcycle]

Same issue with my old Widder controller.
Obviously, we need it to be accessible, so I used a short velcro strap like those used to tidy cables, as for computers, entertainment centers, etc.
I just strapped it around a handle or d-ring on my tank bag so I could reach out and it wouldn't dangle and beat up the tank.
The power goes into a Powerlet receptacle near the front of the bike.

This has been my style but always slid away and had to adjust it at every stop.

 

[Uncle Phil]

I called it Scotchlock (which is actually an electrical connector) but it is 'officially' known as DUAL LOCK made by 3M and has a lot 'tighter' grip than standard Velcro. I ran into it when I ordered a EDSETS headset and he used it to secure the headset to the side of the helmet -

3M SJ3541 RECLOSABLE FASTENER DUAL LOCK TYPE 400 1" X 3FT ROLL | eBay

3M SJ3540 RECLOSABLE FASTENER DUAL LOCK TYPE 250 1" X 3FT ROLL | eBay

You want a 400 on the 'bottom' and a 250 on the 'top'.
Using the same number of 'teeth' on both pieces does not give you a better grip.

 

[sirepair]

I clip my Heatroller to a pocket on my riding jacket or 'Stich. That way, only 1 connection to the bike. I've never used any of the "wireless remote" style units, so can't add anything regarding that.

 

[STRider]

I called it Scotchlock (which is actually an electrical connector) but it is 'officially' known as DUAL LOCK made by 3M and has a lot 'tighter' grip than standard Velcro. I ran into it when I ordered a EDSETS headset and he used it to secure the headset to the side of the helmet -

3M SJ3541 RECLOSABLE FASTENER DUAL LOCK TYPE 400 1" X 3FT ROLL | eBay

3M SJ3540 RECLOSABLE FASTENER DUAL LOCK TYPE 250 1" X 3FT ROLL | eBay

You want a 400 on the 'bottom' and a 250 on the 'top'.
Using the same number of 'teeth' on both pieces does not give you a better grip.

Beat me to the punch Uncle Phil. I use 3M Dual Lock all the time. Here's a link to a guide from the iTape store. https://www.itapestore.com/Stem-Count-Identification_ep_50-1.html

I use the clear 250 tape because you can stick it to itself; no need to maintain a supply of two distinct materials. And from a holding strength perspective, I've never had the lock fail, only the adhesive (be sure to have a clean smooth surface and avoid extended elevated temperatures).

If the application suits, you can always supplement the adhesive with screws or nuts and bolts with flat washers or even staples.

It's holding the electrical module of my LED headlights to the back of the shell in my 1300 at the moment. Soon to be holding power bricks for my son's monitors and powered desk to the underside of the desk.

 

[Gizmo]

I've got a wireless controller for my Warm 'N Safe gear. It is mounted on my clutch reservoir using Duolock. I've zip-tied it there for extra security.

 

[jfheilman]

I use Warm n Safe gear as well as does my wife. We keep the wireless controllers in our jacket pockets. Rarely need to change the settings once on the road.

 

[Daboo]

I use a Gerbing wireless controller, mounted with industrial strength Velcro to the back of my GPS. GPS is mounted on the left side of the handlebars. This gets the controls up where I can easily adjust them without taking my attention from the road.

In case the Velcro fails, I put a tether on it.

Chris

 

[paulcb]

+1 to the wireless controller (WnS for me) mounted to the clutch reservoir, with a tether. I adjust mine frequently during a long ride (especially for my gloves), so it's handy to have the controller within reach while riding. The batteries in the wireless controller last all winter for me, which is mostly daily commuting and maybe a few trips.

 

[steve3b3]

I've never felt the need for a wireless controller for my heated gear.
Gerbing doesn't make the dual controller any more, but I did a google search and found a knock-off online.
My controller has a leather holder with a clip that's attached to the waist adjustment strap of my jacket.
I usually set it and forget it.

Steve

 

[Sadlsor]

I usually set it and forget it.

Steve

I can never leave anything alone.
Especially when it's a cold ride.

 

[Uncle Phil]

I've never felt the need for a wireless controller for my heated gear.

That's what I don't understand - the advantage of the wireless controller since you are still 'wired' to the bike - except for maybe placement of the control.
Unless I've missed something along the way ...

 

[paulcb]

That's what I don't understand - the advantage of the wireless controller since you are still 'wired' to the bike - except for maybe placement of the control.
Unless I've missed something along the way ...

One less wire to run, and easy to remove for the not-cold season. Since the batteries last a full season, it's too easy to go wireless.

 

[Uncle Phil]

One less wire to run, and easy to remove for the not-cold season. Since the batteries last a full season, it's too easy to go wireless.

I'm still confused - do you still have two wires to the jacket liner - one for the jacket, one for the gloves (my liners have separate plugs for that)?
My 'wired' controller plugs into a 'BMW' plug beside the clutch reservoir and then the two wires run from the controller to my gear.
And my 'controller' hangs on a bracket dual-locked to the top of the clutch reservoir where it is easy to reach and see.
Plenty easy to remove at any time and I am only running one 'wire' from the fuse block to the plug, which I presume you still have to do with the wireless one. Not trying to be a smart aleck, just trying to see the advantage and if I want to go there.

 

[paulcb]

I plug the red male plug from my heated jacket into one hot wire from the battery. That goes to the controller (circled in red) which resides in a little bespoke pocket in my jacket, which then connects to the jacket circuit via the gray/red female plug and glove circuit via the yellow/black female plug. The wireless controller comms with the jacket controller (circled in red) to control each circuit independently. And my gloves plug into the glove circuit built into my jacket.

 

[Uncle Phil]

But what do you do with the 'red' and 'yellow' female plugs coming out of the 'circled in red' controller?

 

[paulcb]

But what do you do with the 'red' and 'yellow' female plugs coming out of the 'circled in red' controller?

I updated my previous post to be more clear. See if that makes sense.

Essentially, the red female plugs into the jacket circuit and the yellow female plugs into the glove circuit, both circuits built into the jacket. This has worked well on both a Gerbing and WnS jacket.