Fueling problem

Usually just a tank, you can add some seafoam additive as well but sounds more like the pump.
 
Running tanks of fuel will never completely empty/clean the lower tank unless you run it out of gas.
As Joe pointed out, and you and I discussed, it may be either a fuel pump issue, fuel line issue (loosing pressure), or a clogged fuel filter.
For some reason Honda does not have a recommended fuel filter replacement period etc.
I have found many filters so clogged up that you could not even force clean fuel through them with a syringe.
Maybe the higher draw is enough to pull enough fuel through correctly, but when starting off it’s not getting enough fuel etc.
 
I didn’t know the upper tank can stay in place when changing the filter. Will try that next. OEM or?
 
TUBE, FUEL JOINT 1ea.
17545-MCS-G00
Retail Price: $8.27
Your Price: $6.14

HOSE A, PUMP 1ea.
16711-MCS-G00
Retail Price: $3.45
Your Price: $2.56

HOSE B, PUMP 1ea.
16712-MAT-D01
Retail Price: $3.69
Your Price: $2.74

FILTER, FUEL 1ea.
16900-MBG-013
Retail Price: $69.56
Your Price: $51.65


WASHER, SEALING (12MM) 2ea.
90428-PD6-003
Retail Price: $5.23
Your Price: $4.24

GASKET, BASE 1 ea.
17574-MN5-000
Retail Price: $9.71
Your Price: $7.21

2007 Honda ST1300AA Fuel Pump | Ron Ayers

Shop online for OEM Fuel Pump parts that fit your 2007 Honda ST1300AA, search all our OEM Parts or call at 252-758-3084
www.ronayers.com www.ronayers.com

Be VERY careful when removing/installing the assembly. The edge of the lower tank is razor sharp, and bends easily.
Its also very easy to pinch wires under the gasket, which can bend and damage the lower tank sealing lip etc.
Also READ the fine print in the service manual, as there are two different torque sequences, depending on years, and don't over tighten the nuts, or you'll snap the lower tank studs off!
You can drain BOTH tanks by simply removing/clamping the fuel return hose, and placing a syphon hose on the elbow, then down to a catch can.
These pictures show using the vent line (which will only drain the upper tank), if you want both tanks empty, use the RETURN hose (the one on the lid with the SPRING clamp).
:WCP1:
Image 2 close up.jpg

Image 2.jpg
 
From the symptoms you describe in the very first post, this would be a classic sign of secondary ignition problem. You checked your spark plugs, but have you inspected the high tension leads, ignition coils and caps for any signs of carbon tracking? There are some tests pointed out in the service manual, and you could also try misting down the coils and leads with a salt water solution in a squirt bottle with the engine running to try and eek out any external kv leak. The reason I think ignition is because at the higher combustion chamber pressures that occur under the exact circumstances you describe, It takes more voltage to ionize the spark plug gap and create the spark. If the secondary circuit has an easier path than that to take, it will take it.
 
^ I'll try that this week

For what it's worth, I had a chance to take my first long distance ride. The problem is across the rev range. Not just 3500-4000. It's hard to tell but also happens occasionally in 4th and even 3rd.

It's also possible that higher altitude (6000-10000ft) makes it worse. Which would make sense since the previous owner didn't notice it down in Texas.
 
Last edited:
Auron said:
Any chance it could be the tps?
Click to expand...
I would imagine it would set a TPS circuit code if that were the case, but I suppose it's possible to have a glitch that happens fast and the ECM does not flag it as a code, but the parts cannon approach here is only going to get you broke and even more frustrated. You could test the signal at the TPS via backprobing the signal circuit pin and using a graphing meter - set a fairly fast time base say around 1/2 sec per division or so, and with KOEO slowly move the throttle open to close and see if there are any drops or spikes ( the spikes you would see from a bad TPS would be signal circuit bias voltage, usually 5 volts, but the connected TPS pulls that voltage down. Thats how the ECM is able to fault sensors)
 
The fi light isn’t flashing, but someone mentioned stored codes. How do you find those?
 
Auron said:
The fi light isn’t flashing, but someone mentioned stored codes. How do you find those?
Click to expand...
ECM Fault Codes
ECM Check and Reset Quick Guide

Alternate method to the Honda specified procedure;
Warm the engine to full operating temperature. Shut the engine off.
Put the side stand down.
Start the engine without touching the throttle.
Without touching the throttle, let the engine run until the radiator fans come on.
Turn off the engine using the engine kill switch- not the ignition switch.
Turn the key off.
All codes should now be cleared.

After the fault codes are cleared and the F1 light goes off, it will come back on if the problem that originally caused it to come on is still present.
 
That does not mean that the fuel went THROUGH the filter ;)
Check out the fuel filter replacement thread today.
How do the fuel lines look? Can you see any frayed material, or pin holes / leaks?
 
Well guys, it’s not the filter.

if the filter did look like that would it be possible to harm the pump? Or fpr?
 
Auron said:
Got the fuel filter out. Fuel poured out of both ends freely and crystal clear
Click to expand...
Doesn't mean that you get a constant flow at 50 PSI under stress.
Mine was also letting gas goes freely through it but, replacing it solved my my Fi light and Cut Out problem.
I used the same Quantum brand and you can just get the filter kit for $39.

Amazon.com: QFS-K320 Quantum Fuel Pump Repair Kit +MAHLE Filter for Honda Inceptor 800 CBR900RR ST1300 (1998-2021), Replaces 16700-MCW-D01,16700-MBG-020 : Automotive

Buy QFS-K320 Quantum Fuel Pump Repair Kit +MAHLE Filter for Honda Inceptor 800 CBR900RR ST1300 (1998-2021), Replaces 16700-MCW-D01,16700-MBG-020: Electric Fuel Pumps - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
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Hi all.
I would like to add my 2 cents.

Sounds very much like clogged / ruptured T-piece. (Vacuum hoses underneath the air filter connection to 5-way joint).
If the they get stuffed, the vacuum is not registered correctly and you get weird stuf. Same if you have a leak in one of them.
Would suggest to take some time to check these thoroughly.

Regards,
Vince
 
Drivervince said:
Hi all.
I would like to add my 2 cents.

Sounds very much like clogged / ruptured T-piece. (Vacuum hoses underneath the air filter connection to 5-way joint).
If the they get stuffed, the vacuum is not registered correctly and you get weird stuf. Same if you have a leak in one of them.
Would suggest to take some time to check these thoroughly.

Regards,
Vince
Click to expand...
Thank you I’ll look. All the hoses are in good shape though, it’s been garaged in Texas it’s whole life
 
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