Fork Brace: worth it?

I'll throw in with the crowd that says it's not necessary and in fact might be detrimental. I think when people claim it has stiffened the suspension what they are feeling is really increased stiction due to a side load pulling or pushing the fork legs a few thousandths of an inch toward or away from one another. This makes the fork less responsive. The design of the pictured brace does not allow for any accommodation of bike to bike manufacturing differences. The only factory fitted brace I had on a bike was on my VF750 Interceptor and the bolt holes were slightly oval to allow the forks to remain in their natural alignment/distance with no side stress load from the brace. After bouncing the front end, you then tightened the brace bolts last.



Sounds like a good idea to attempt to avoid this problem, but the sequence recommended for tightening the front axle and pinch bolts will result in the distance between the fork legs at the axle remaining the same as before, assuming the front wheel had been installed correctly prior. Probably ineffectual with respect to this particular issue.

Actually it's function is to reduce stiction. The brace between the fork legs actually keeps the legs "linked" at a position other than just the axle and triple clamp, moving up/down in unison, keeping the axle from "bending/twisting" between them. This allows more energy to be transmitted to the rim and tire. Without a brace when you lean into a turn the inside fork leg will assume most of the cornering force and the outside leg will "unload" (I think I remembered that right, might be the other way around ) wanting to be pulled by the axle. The brace makes the fork legs react equally.

I hope I can find the article I read a while back that explains this. It was all about what the front tire, rim, axle and fork legs do.
 
Adding the correct amount of preload to the front end will have a bigger effect than a fork brace.

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mlheck said:
Adding the correct amount of preload to the front end will have a bigger effect than a fork brace.
Just in a different area of performance.
 
Actually it's function is to reduce stiction. The brace between the fork legs actually keeps the legs "linked" at a position other than just the axle and triple clamp, moving up/down in unison, keeping the axle from "bending/twisting" between them. This allows more energy to be transmitted to the rim and tire. Without a brace when you lean into a turn the inside fork leg will assume most of the cornering force and the outside leg will "unload" (I think I remembered that right, might be the other way around ) wanting to be pulled by the axle. The brace makes the fork legs react equally.

I hope I can find the article I read a while back that explains this. It was all about what the front tire, rim, axle and fork legs do.
Errrrr, I'm scratching my head, sawduST all over the place.
How does a fork brace enable the fork legs to react equally?
Yes it will provide a stiffer front end in that there will be less flex in the centre of the forks but how would it alter what each individual leg is doing great in relation to spring and damping loads?
Upt'North.
 
interesting discussion on this topic:
https://advrider.com/f/threads/fork-braces.1189347/

A review:
https://www.webbikeworld.com/superbrace-fork-brace-stabilizer-review/
“The SuperBrace Fork Brace fork stabilizer is a beautiful piece of kit, precision made in the U.S.A. It was sort of an expensive farkle in this case because we haven’t noticed any difference in the bike after the stabilizer was installed. But, it sure looks cool!”

GL1800 big boys opinions:
https://gl1800riders.com/forums/4-g...ce-does-really-do-anything.html?action=thread
“Yes, a fork brace will improve the quality of your ride and make a noticeable difference. In my case the greatest noticeable difference was in slow speed turns in parking lots, gas stations and other similar situations. The fork brace helps eliminate the "walking" feeling of a slow speed turn that happens because of the flex in the forks. The brace helps with this situation. I feel it is well worth the cost. Get the adjustable type, like Kuryakyn or Traxxion.”

After reading all of this and other references, I’m coming to the conclusion that “one size doesn’t fit all”
A. Some bike front end suspension designs would benefit from a brace, and others not
B. Bikes with inverted shocks and heavier tubes wouldn’t need braces compared to other designs
C. The ST1300 heavy top box wobble was reduced with braces some say, so that might be a corner case for braces
D. A poorly designed or installed brace could actually cause problems and damage. So buyer and installer beware
 
Errrrr, I'm scratching my head, sawduST all over the place.
How does a fork brace enable the fork legs to react equally?
Yes it will provide a stiffer front end in that there will be less flex in the centre of the forks but how would it alter what each individual leg is doing great in relation to spring and damping loads?
Upt'North.

Ugh, I'm not good at explaining this, I need pictures from the article I read. The flex is what it eliminates. Picture the inner/upper fork tube bending (which is where the flexing would be, not the lower fork leg), now picture trying to slide the lower leg up thru and past the bend. It would take more effort than sliding the leg up on a straight tube. That's the stiction.
 
The first 2 years had my ST '05 I had really bad cupping wear on the front tires. When I installed the MCL fork brace, I not only noticed an improvement in cornering (maybe subjective) but I have never had front tire cupping since and have increased front tire life substantially. Pocket book proven. I have never had weave but I can't say that is because of the brace. I ride with my 52l Givi all the time.
 
Errrrr, I'm scratching my head, sawduST all over the place.
How does a fork brace enable the fork legs to react equally?
Yes it will provide a stiffer front end in that there will be less flex in the centre of the forks but how would it alter what each individual leg is doing great in relation to spring and damping loads?
Upt'North.
Picture two parallel pipes connected at the bottom and top by one cross brace. (You have a rectangle out of the pipes.) This represents the forks from the lower triple clamp down to the axle. There is not much to resist you from twisting this assembly, which is what happens when the wheel of a bike goes over uneven terrain. Now, in an extreme example, consider a ladder. Try to twist it. Much much harder than that first example. If we remove all but the center rung, it approaches the first sample, but is still stiffer. In addition to stiffening the forks, the brace forces both legs to act together and reduces flex. Again, we have tied two parallel beams together so they cannot flex independently (well they will flex less independently and more in concert).
 
While the example above explain flex, twist as sources of wobble at a first order, the application specifically to our beloved beaST weighs in the scales. Did Honda engineering overlook this aspect of their design for almost 20 years, or did they account for it in the thickness of the parts and materials; thus deciding these parasitic forces were negligible?

I guess it comes down to the magnitude and direction the impacting forces are, condition of the suspension and tires, and the sensitivity of the driver. That’s some tough variables to make repeatable results over so many different bikes with various age, various drivers and mods. Except under laboratory controlled conditions, we just may never know conclusively.

I will probably get one after I research the choices, but it’s down the mod/farkles list. I have some class-A uniform gear that’s way up the list first.

;)
 
Motorcycle engineers don't build a bike to be all things in all conditions. They just don't because if they did we couldn't afford it. Compromises are a part of doing business. Selling motorcycles is first a business.

When a bike from any manufacturer leaves the plant it's deemed 'good enough' for whatever purpose or market it was aimed at. If Honda thought you needed cruise control sat nav traction control they would installed it. Heated grips were OPTIONAL. Why? Because you only think you need them. Same with tapered roller bearings. Pricey placebos or manna from moto-heaven. The manufacturer is always right right?

There are enough variables that only those who've tried the brace have any real shot at an accurate answer. And that varies with individual abilities to perceive any difference.

There was a video posted here some time ago showing a guy (Brit?) riding a bike with a high-speed camera filming the forks flexing. I don't remember much else but I don't think is was an ad for braces. But the tubes flexing was a real thing. Materials have improved since then as have diameters for tubes etc.

I think the only way a braces effectiveness can be judged is to ignore all the supposition and install a brace. Follow the instructions and is if it impairs the riding in the slightest. If not then ride and look and feel for positive results. None? Put miles and time on the bike and don't think about it.

After months and miles pull it off and ride. Now does the bike feel any different/better/worse? If worse put it back on. If better then sell it. If you can't tell then sell it. You now have actual experience and a real data point as to how it worked for you on your bike.

Or save your money in the first place and don't buy it. Tell yourself it wouldn't have made much if any difference anyway and might have negatively impacted the handling! And move on.

There are more important things to consider like dino vs synthetic oil or K&N vs factory air filters. And moly grease vs paste! :)
 
The first 2 years had my ST '05 I had really bad cupping wear on the front tires. When I installed the MCL fork brace, I not only noticed an improvement in cornering (maybe subjective) but I have never had front tire cupping since and have increased front tire life substantially. Pocket book proven. I have never had weave but I can't say that is because of the brace. I ride with my 52l Givi all the time.

Using the same tire before and after? Some tires are prone to cupping.
 
Ugh, I'm not good at explaining this, I need pictures from the article I read. The flex is what it eliminates. Picture the inner/upper fork tube bending (which is where the flexing would be, not the lower fork leg), now picture trying to slide the lower leg up thru and past the bend. It would take more effort than sliding the leg up on a straight tube. That's the stiction.

Hmmmm. If each inner tube is itself "bending", a fork brace mounted across the outer tubes wont stop the inner tube "bending".

When discussing motorcycle front forks and using the word "stiction" ... that is when the outer fork's seal grabs the inner fork, because of insufficient grease at the seal. Stiction can be felt and seen when the bike is at rest.
 
Using the same tire before and after? Some tires are prone to cupping.
Now to the best of my recollection and mind you that was 10-12 years ago, the first tire would have been whatever they were shipping her with at the time. It cupped. Went to the Avon Storms (?) for the next couple.. they cupped. Brace on. I remember being how surprised I was at how long the next Storm lasted and no cupping. Been mostly running Shinkos the past 5 years. No cupping on those.
 
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