Final Drive Project, Help Needed
- Thread starter Ahvitved
- Start date
I have 2 good used final drive units... none ABS
$250 + $50 shipping
I also have a good but somewhat worn rear wheel
$250 + $50 shipping
I also have a good but somewhat worn rear wheel
Finally getting around to replacing my final drive. I have a few questions:
Lube - I've always used Moly 60 paste on the driven flange splines - however, it looks like my Honda manual has a conflict. Under "wheel installation/removal" it actually says to use moly *grease* on the splines, no mention of paste. However under "wheel disassembly/assembly" it says to use moly paste both on the splines and the mating surfaces of the flange to wheel hub. The Honda manual also says to use moly grease (vs paste) on the splines on both ends of the driveshaft coupler joint. What do you guys use where? The Haynes manual just says to use paste on all final drive splines.
On reassembly, I assume I have to insert the coupler joint into the final drive housing. Since the driveshaft kinda flops down in the tunnel, am I going to be able to get the coupler joint to mate up with the driveshaft? Or should I install the joint onto the driveshaft first?
Lube - I've always used Moly 60 paste on the driven flange splines - however, it looks like my Honda manual has a conflict. Under "wheel installation/removal" it actually says to use moly *grease* on the splines, no mention of paste. However under "wheel disassembly/assembly" it says to use moly paste both on the splines and the mating surfaces of the flange to wheel hub. The Honda manual also says to use moly grease (vs paste) on the splines on both ends of the driveshaft coupler joint. What do you guys use where? The Haynes manual just says to use paste on all final drive splines.
On reassembly, I assume I have to insert the coupler joint into the final drive housing. Since the driveshaft kinda flops down in the tunnel, am I going to be able to get the coupler joint to mate up with the driveshaft? Or should I install the joint onto the driveshaft first?
John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
Hi Mike,
We've known about the shop manual error for ages. Moly paste on the final drive splines and flange. Moly grease on the driveshaft coupler and driveshaft splines (moly paste on the other end of the driveshaft/trannie output shaft). You won't have any problem getting the coupler joint on the driveshaft after the swingarm is installed and the driveshaft U-joint is seated onto the trannie shaft. Follow the service manual.
edit: this should be of interest: http://home.insightbb.com/~mmartin36/Swingarm.htm
Regards, John :STOC: Ten Fifty-Eight
We've known about the shop manual error for ages. Moly paste on the final drive splines and flange. Moly grease on the driveshaft coupler and driveshaft splines (moly paste on the other end of the driveshaft/trannie output shaft). You won't have any problem getting the coupler joint on the driveshaft after the swingarm is installed and the driveshaft U-joint is seated onto the trannie shaft. Follow the service manual.
edit: this should be of interest: http://home.insightbb.com/~mmartin36/Swingarm.htm
Regards, John :STOC: Ten Fifty-Eight
Last edited:
Thanks John. The whole "installation is the reverse order of removal" thing isn't very specific though. My main question is - when installing the final drive case, is the coupler joint inserted into the case first, or do you put it on the end of the driveshaft first? When I pulled it apart the coupler stayed with the final drive case and slid off of the driveshaft. The end of the shaft then dropped down slightly since it was no longer supported. I'm worried that if I try to put it together the same way the end of the coupler won't line up with the shaft enough to get the coupler to slide onto the shaft. So am I supposed to slide the coupler onto the drive shaft first, then install the case? My worry doing it that way is messing up the oil seal.
I didn't remove the swingarm or driveshaft, just the final drive gear case.
I didn't remove the swingarm or driveshaft, just the final drive gear case.
Mike, I've never had a problem sliding all those parts together. I'm pretty sure I put the coupler on the drive shaft first then slid the final drive on. Won't swear to it tho. Probably done it both ways as I've had final drives off 'n on a lot of bikes.
Anyhoo, what I know is important: when installing the final drive, don't tighten the 4 connector bolts until the rear wheel is installed and torqued. This makes sure the final drive is "square" to the axle. You may only be able to tighten three of the four bolts on the final drive but that'll hold it in place while ya re-remove the rear wheel to tighten the fourth. A little extra trouble but worth it in the long run.
Anyhoo, what I know is important: when installing the final drive, don't tighten the 4 connector bolts until the rear wheel is installed and torqued. This makes sure the final drive is "square" to the axle. You may only be able to tighten three of the four bolts on the final drive but that'll hold it in place while ya re-remove the rear wheel to tighten the fourth. A little extra trouble but worth it in the long run.
Thanks Geoge. I know about the alingment procedure. My splines were running really hot until Rob P filled me in on that years ago. After I did it they looked much better but I think some damage was done and it contributed to the demise of my splines at 77,000 miles.
I guess I'll just try the assembly both ways and see what works. The Honda manual kind of implies that you should insert the coupler into the "cup" on the final drive first. Haynes isn't specific either. It just seems to me the end of the drive shaft is too far in there plus it's laying on the bottom of the tunnel.
Hey, I think I saw on ADV that you will be at the Moonshine Run. I should be there with a few other guys. We are staying a bit away from there and riding in for a burger Sat morning.
~3,400-mile unit I got salvage off of eBay
My 77,000-mile one
I guess I'll just try the assembly both ways and see what works. The Honda manual kind of implies that you should insert the coupler into the "cup" on the final drive first. Haynes isn't specific either. It just seems to me the end of the drive shaft is too far in there plus it's laying on the bottom of the tunnel.
Hey, I think I saw on ADV that you will be at the Moonshine Run. I should be there with a few other guys. We are staying a bit away from there and riding in for a burger Sat morning.
~3,400-mile unit I got salvage off of eBay
My 77,000-mile one
Mike, I will be at Moonshine along with many others from this site.
My original spider looks about like yours, replaced many miles ago with an EBay unit. It still looks fine at LOTS of miles. The alignment procedure works.
My original spider looks about like yours, replaced many miles ago with an EBay unit. It still looks fine at LOTS of miles. The alignment procedure works.
re:
I found that, if you plan accordingly and have a near empty fuel tank, you can remove the tank and you then can torque all 4 nuts on the final drive studs. Whether pulling the wheel or the tank is easier is your call.
I found that, if you plan accordingly and have a near empty fuel tank, you can remove the tank and you then can torque all 4 nuts on the final drive studs. Whether pulling the wheel or the tank is easier is your call.