FI Code 25 Knock Sensor Issue - HEALED!

What I typed for translation begins - loom fix [as opposed to weaving solution] but thereafter seems pretty much the same. My guess is that our friend may have been trying to widen response to his dilemma by bringing it up here on the ST site; nothing wrong with a wider net.
 
You can check this thread where I have a list of things to check. My code is 26 and I found a bad right knock sensor connector. I'll be replacing the engine sub harness (part# 32109-MCS-700). Hopefully that will fix it. Igofar (Larry) has been a tremendous help through the process!
Wondering how you got on and did replacing the sub-harness help at all? Got mine ('04 model) up and road legal after a wee rest at the back of the garage for the last 12 years. Ran fine for the first 1000(ish)km, then F1/26. Got 2 new sensors, all bolted back up..F1/25. I've got the aforementioned sub-harness but before I go getting elbows deep into the top of the engine, was keen to hear your result.

Being as old as it is with less than 45,000km on the clock, really keen to try and keep her going.
 
Rather than tack this on to any of the many threads on the issue, I thought I'd post a new one as this event seems worthy.

So...about a year ago I noticed that the FI light would come on anytime I ran my '04 above 4000rpm. In addition, the bike would lag.

Digging into the issue, I found that it was throwing a 25 code, so I scoured the forum for potential issues, fixes and advice. From ECU's to harnesses to sensors, a variety of potential causes presented in the forums...the most likely from my horribly optimistic point-of-view was the wiring. I had always noticed that the cowling seemed to hold massive amounts of heat, so it made sense. The fix was also well below the cost of a new ECU, so I decided to try that first. I ordered the sensor pigtails (the cheaper automotive part) and set them aside for a sunny day.

Fast forward to a couple of weeks ago when I pulled the Duchess from storage and went about firing her up. No pulse. The 6 year-old battery finally went to AGM Heaven, so I ordered another as well as a new solenoid relay...it had been stubborn at times the previous season, so I figured I'd switch it out.

I replaced both yesterday after work and took her for a spin. After a little warm-up, I let her breathe a bit and opened her up...and much to my surprise, I was turning 5000 rpm without a hint of the FI light coming on. I ran her up several times for extended periods and...nada. No FI light or hesitation. The engine seemed more responsive, too.

Aside from Divine Intervention, the only explanation I can come up with is voltage...or lack thereof. Either my old battery was not producing sufficient, consistent voltage or the relay was sapping it somehow and perhaps the ECU was becoming unhappy at the slight.

Or...maybe it's just an anomaly and the FI code will return tomorrow. Dunno.

So, as well as wanting to share my cautious elation, I also wondered if anyone had experienced a similar miraculous healing or had any insight.
One of the things a battery does when it fails is it pulls what the alternator produces into the black hole of its failed cells trying to charge it. The voltage regulator tells it to produce more and more amperage, it does not care what does not make it to the rest of the electrical system
 
Wondering how you got on and did replacing the sub-harness help at all?
The thread is updated with my latest results, but in short - I got a new sub-harness but rather than replacing the entire thing, I spliced in the new right side knock sensor connector. The problem appeared to be fixed until I went to the recent GA-STOC where the light came on again (same code). When I ride locally, it doesn't come on even though I do some interstate and go over 4200 rpm. It seems to come on when riding hard for longer periods of time. I'll be on the lookout for a replacement ECM if I can get one.
 
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