Evaporative Emission Control System

JayKay said:
To eliminate 2 items (canister & solenoid) that can go bad & knowing the Pan European bikes don't use that system in the first place & those bikes seem to keep it simple & just has a vent hose leading down to a safe exit area at the bottom of the bike. What I'll do before anything is run the bike with the solenoid unplugged & see if I get a code. Here's a side note...on very hot summer days once in while I've gotten whiffs of fuel when riding knowing the fuel is cooking with as hot as these bikes get. I just did a complete header wrap which is when I saw the Evap Control System.
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MidLife said:
Did you ever hear the fuel "boiling" in the tank on a hot day?

Wondering if ditching the evap might put a stop to that.

Maybe EU/OZ can tell us if they ever hear boiling or not.
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Never heard any boiling...plus I have a tank bag where my Yorkie rides & aftermarket pipes..I just smell it once in a while but ONLY as I said extremely Hot days & the bike is really hot too. I'm looking forward to seeing the temps go down with the headers wrapped up now.
 
Again the whole point of this question was that the bikes Not sold in the US don't have this system & obviously use a basic venting type fuel vapor system & that's what I'd like to adapt to mine if the ECU doesn't throw a code with the solenoid removed.
 
The only reason I mentioned my Tank bag that my Yorkie rides in was that "if" the fuel was boiling when I tend to get a sent of it on extremely hot days I wouldn't hear it because of the tank bag being somewhat of a insulator.
 
Again the whole point of this question was that the bikes Not sold in the US don't have this system & obviously use a basic venting type fuel vapor system & that's what I'd like to adapt to mine if the ECU doesn't throw a code with the solenoid removed.
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I wish I could give you a definitive answer but unfortunately I can not. I can not recall anyone having done this and what the result was, nor can I test this as my ST1300 is still hibernating.
It is not very complicated to test yourself. If I had a desire to do this I would disconnect the line to the canister and run it to open atmosphere as well as disconnect the plug to the purge control solenoid. Then just ride it around like that for a while and see what happens. If it does throw a code and/or complain in any other way simply connect everything back up, no harm no foul. If you do not observe any adverse effects or symptoms and are happy with the result you will have your answer. If you do this come back and report the results here for our benefit.

Because other versions of the ST1300 don't have the canister system can't be in and of itself the sole motivation for doing this, there must some other reason. Unless the system is defective in some way there does not seem to be any tangible advantage to removing it. People will continue to try to understand what the motivation is, so you will probably keep getting asked why.
 
Andrew Shadow said:
I wish I could give you a definitive answer but unfortunately I can not. I can not recall anyone having done this and what the result was, nor can I test this as my ST1300 is still hibernating.
It is not very complicated to test yourself. If I had a desire to do this I would disconnect the line to the canister and run it to open atmosphere as well as disconnect the plug to the purge control solenoid. Then just ride it around like that for a while and see what happens. If it does throw a code and/or complain in any other way simply connect everything back up, no harm no foul. If you do not observe any adverse effects or symptoms and are happy with the result you will have your answer. If you do this come back and report the results here for our benefit.

Because other versions of the ST1300 don't have the canister system can't be in and of itself the sole motivation for doing this, there must some other reason. Unless the system is defective in some way there does not seem to be any tangible advantage to removing it. People will continue to try to understand what the motivation is, so you will probably keep getting asked why.
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That's what I was going to do but really didn't want to put the body work all back together just to take it back off as you know it's a pain...so I'll run it on the center tand & see what happens. I believe this system is just a US EPA requirement as opposed to bikes sold outside the US.
 
Andrew Shadow said:
Hopefully he will clarify what he meant but I think that what he meant is that the fuel tank vent pipe that plugs in to the vapour canister on North American ST1300's vents directly to open atmosphere in some other markets because there is no canister.
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That is just what I meant. I agree that under "normal" conditions, the vent allows vapours to escape and (importantly) allows air to enter as the fuel is consumed.

My ST1300, and my 99 and 09 VFR800s all vent in the same way. The picture shows the VFR fuel tank vent tube down near the sidestand bracket i.e. lower left of the bike.
 

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JayKay said:
To eliminate 2 items (canister & solenoid) that can go bad & knowing the Pan European bikes don't use that system in the first place & those bikes seem to keep it simple & just has a vent hose leading down to a safe exit area at the bottom of the bike. What I'll do before anything is run the bike with the solenoid unplugged & see if I get a code. Here's a side note...on very hot summer days once in while I've gotten whiffs of fuel when riding knowing the fuel is cooking with as hot as these bikes get. I just did a complete header wrap which is when I saw the Evap Control System.
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Again what are you tyring to accomplish? You getting a wiff of gas fumes now do you think it will get better if you remove the canister. Do you understand how fuel trims work with purge valve on or off?
Here's a more detailed explanation:
  • What a Purge Valve Does:
    The purge valve is part of the Evaporative Emission (EVAP) system, which collects fuel vapors from the fuel tank and sends them to the engine to be burned.

  • Stuck Open Issue:
    When the purge valve is stuck open, it continuously allows fuel vapors from the charcoal canister into the intake manifold, even when the engine doesn't need them.

  • Rich Mixture:
    This influx of unmetered fuel vapors creates a richer air-fuel mixture than the engine needs, leading to a negative fuel trim.

  • Negative Fuel Trims:
    The engine control unit (ECU) will then reduce the fuel delivery to compensate for the excess fuel, resulting in negative fuel trims.
 
JayKay said:
Never heard any boiling...plus I have a tank bag where my Yorkie rides & aftermarket pipes..I just smell it once in a while but ONLY as I said extremely Hot days & the bike is really hot too. I'm looking forward to seeing the temps go down with the headers wrapped up now.
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Take some temperature readings with a IR heat gun, and it will show you the bike will actually run hotter now since you wrapped the headers.
You may not feel the heat, but your bike and wire harness will.
 
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