Engine cutting out with heat

[peterswa]

Poor crankcase ventilation. Hose under the front of the lower half of the air cleaner housing. It must be inserted in a flexible clip or the hose will be compressed.
Poor gas tank vent, hoses under the top tank at the rear. Hose to the charcoal filter can be compressed if not strung correctly. Open the gas cap right after it stalls, may hear a hiss if poor tank ventilation.

 

[bkra13]

Poor crankcase ventilation. Hose under the front of the lower half of the air cleaner housing. It must be inserted in a flexible clip or the hose will be compressed.
Poor gas tank vent, hoses under the top tank at the rear. Hose to the charcoal filter can be compressed if not strung correctly. Open the gas cap right after it stalls, may hear a hiss if poor tank ventilation.

Was going to mention the gas cap vent. Easy check - open cap and try to start the bike.

 

[playinatwork]

Step 1: Replace fuel pump
Step 2: Go riding.

 

[mlheck]

Step 1: Replace fuel pump
Step 2: Go riding.

I believe he stated that he has already done this.

Sent using Tapatalk

 

[bdalameda]

Could be a plugged EVAP cannister. This would not allow the tank to vent properly. As others have said - did you try opening the gas cap and then try to start it. Sounds like a venting issue to me.

 

[drtyrrel]

When it doesn't start does the FI light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key switch and engine cut-off switch on?

 

[Boon]

When it doesn't start does the FI light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key switch and engine cut-off switch on?

Yes Fi light comes on and goes off as normal, so ruled out the kill switch/ignition

 

[Boon]

Bit of an update on this...

It’s still acting up. So far changed...

Cleaned out 5 ways/map sensor
Flushed coolant system, run with both thermostat in and out - no difference (apart from it taking longer to get to temp)
New Fuel pump & genuine filter
New coolant temperature sensor
New air intake temperature sensor
Full service, New plugs, oil, air filter
Reshimed valve clearances
Changed to 2011 throttle bodies from a known working no issue bike 30,000miles - injectors, throttle position sensor, fuel reg, map sensor & wiring loom
Reset ECM by removing battery lead for 20mins & starting bike on side stand from cold and left till rad fans cut in without touching throttle
Checked all the pipe work for damage/kinks - nothing


Im still lost!

Whats left? - Knock sensors, cam & crank sensors, ECM & wiring

Also tried running bike with fuel cap open - no vacuum noises on opening, still cuts out

Coolant temp on dash 3 bars, never seen 4 or more & only acts up in warm/hot weather.... cooler mornings and evenings it’ll run for hours. Temp of engine using infrared thermometer around 95/100deg C. Fuel tank temp 45deg C

 

[Boon]

Could be a plugged EVAP cannister. This would not allow the tank to vent properly. As others have said - did you try opening the gas cap and then try to start it. Sounds like a venting issue to me.

Doesn’t have a EVAP canister, it will still cut out even running with fuel cap open

 

[Al Gully]

When my engine cut out, it was the ground cap that is behind the right headlight.
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/sh...ff-06-ST1300&p=1676070&viewfull=1#post1676070

 

[Boon]

When my engine cut out, it was the ground cap that is behind the right headlight.
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/sh...ff-06-ST1300&p=1676070&viewfull=1#post1676070

I’ve checked out all the other connectors around the engine. I will investigate the ground block after reading through the thread

thanks

 

[Igofar]

Check the wires on the Knock sensor on the right side of the block, and the neutral switch wire.
These can rest against the engine block and melt through and cause a short. They normally touch (melt) just behind the small pigtail bracket they go through.
The Lower Engine sub wiring harness also gets real toasty in there and check the wires behind the T-stat housing, they may be shorting.
Keep us posted.

 

[Boon]

Check the wires on the Knock sensor on the right side of the block, and the neutral switch wire.
These can rest against the engine block and melt through and cause a short. They normally touch (melt) just behind the small pigtail bracket they go through.
The Lower Engine sub wiring harness also gets real toasty in there and check the wires behind the T-stat housing, they may be shorting.
Keep us posted.

Sure I’ve checked all through those but will check again, won’t get time till the weekend/early next week due to work

Thanks

 

[Boon]

I’ve checked out the yellow neutral connector block above the front lights and it’s slightly corroded, will clean it up and probably add in an extra neutral strap to the chassis

last night I have also heard about a ‘black electrical box’ above the front lights that was cause of issues on 2002/2003 models (mine is 2002 ABS). The only thing I can think of in there is the lean angle sensor - that would cause the engine to cut out

 

[Al Gully]

I’ve checked out the yellow neutral connector block above the front lights and it’s slightly corroded

Did your bike get the ground cap recall.
Honda will put a punch mark 10mm below the first digit on your VIN plate to tell other dealerships that it has been done.
See the first page on the link below.

http://stwiki.notonthe.net/pub/ST13/GroundCapRecall/instructions.pdf