Easy ABS Weld

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Jul 24, 2011
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807
Age
72
Location
Hereford, AZ
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2020 Moto guzzi V85T
All of us have ran across the issue of trying to repair ABS plastic on motorcycles, cars, RV, household product, etc. What I am wondering is if anyone on the St-owners site has tried this product? (https://easyabsrepair.com) and if so what kind of success did you have.
 
I've seen a great YouTube video, where the guy uses zipties to "weld" cracks and splits.
A wide-tipped soldering iron and low heat.
Made it look super easy, but suggested you practice on a plastic bowl or some scrap, before tackling expensive bodywork.
I use a lot of zip ties in my PC work at restaurants, so I've been saving the cutoffs for months after watching that.
His results were amazing.
 
I've seen a great YouTube video, where the guy uses zipties to "weld" cracks and splits.
A wide-tipped soldering iron and low heat.
Made it look super easy, but suggested you practice on a plastic bowl or some scrap, before tackling expensive bodywork.
If that was the one where the guy is fixing a lawnmower, I wasn't impressed, don't think it will last very long. Heat to bond a crack...ok that works, be careful on thin areas, but I have issues with using two different types of plastic. Most zip ties are made from nylon which has a different melt point than ABS or bowls made of polyetheyne. Only very specific types of plastic can be combined and usually by the resin manufacturer before the part is molded. I will stick to using 2 part epoxy on the backside of the panel, did that on a side cover, I would also try using some thin alumium strips as reinforcement with the epoxy if I ever experience a large area crack.
 
I have fixed a lot of plastics from bikes and car bumpers . Use the correct glue and repair kits as they are cheap at auto stores ,under $10 . This will make for a long term proper repair and can be painted and made to stand up . Takes a little time to get used to the products but overall solid a repair .
 
If that was the one where the guy is fixing a lawnmower, I wasn't impressed, don't think it will last very long.
Didn't see a lawnmower at all in the video I mentioned. He repaired a cracked side panel on a bike, near the seat rail.
 
OK guess I watched the wrong one, but my nylon and ABS comments still stand, use the right stuff, as gmtech94 recommends
 
For those who may want to consider / try this, it's on Delboy's Garage and is titled Delboy's Garage, Simple skills # Plastic welding.
Find it HERE.
Neat tip he uses, for larger cracks or splits, is to heat regular staples, and press them into the plastic. They melt their way in, and add strength. He then covers the metal my melting the plastic over it / around it. You'll have to watch it to understand it. Reminded me a bit of looking at my own belly staples, after the doctor cut me open with a sharp knife, a few years ago.
Hey, it's just an alternative. I have no vested interest in him or his procedures.
 
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What I am wondering is if anyone on the St-owners site has tried this product? (https://easyabsrepair.com) and if so what kind of success did you have.

So based on the responses it looks like nobody so far has tried this product.

Why I am interested in this product. I have three pieces on my RV that are no longer manufactured and used parts all have the same issues with fractures and cracks. I have looked at most if not all the methods described in the responses and because of the size of the pieces and the size of the damaged areas most if not all would not be useful.

I have done plastic welding with limited success, but I am thinking that they plastic I was using may not have been ABS. I have not tried Uncle Phil's super glue and baking soda. Some of the damaged areas are impact point, thanks to previous owner, so filling holes will be required. There maybe areas where some sort of staple melted into the plastic maybe required to stabilize the pieces prior to repair.

I am thinking that I might just spend 50 bucks and see if this works. The rub is that no replacement parts are available so it is a crap shoot and if it fails what do I do at that point. FYI these three parts are cosmetic and provide no structural integrity. Mostly there to keep water out.
 
I used JB Weld 2 part Plastic Weld on my coolant overflow bottle and its holding fine. That bottle is polypropylene, like a milk bottle, which is notoriously hard to patch so fingers crossed for continued success.
 
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Just used a standard off the shelf ABS cement that plumbers use and it worked fine.
I was going to ask the same thing, I've used that on kitchen plumbing fittings made of ABS. The cement I used was black though, which is great for the years with black bodywork. But if all you're using it for is to weld back a broken tip that holds the piece into place and isn't normally visible, then it would seem to be good for that application.
 
Those little molded-on fairing tabs that slip into strategic slots in the bodywork can be difficult, as there is so little surrounding material to support it.
 
The original kit posted looks half decent to me.....
I use Permatex plastic epoxy, it is tough, sandable and paintable... not as runny as JB Weld and stronger IMHO. I usually apply a little extra along the edges of the repair to add some more strength.
I think welding OK if you know the base material (usually stamped somewhere) and yes, don't use nylon to weld ABS, lol. Might work for a while....
Melting in staples or paper clips might not be a bad idea....
 
 
For those who may want to consider / try this, it's on Delboy's Garage and is titled Delboy's Garage, Simple skills # Plastic welding.
Find it HERE.
Neat tip he uses, for larger cracks or splits, is to heat regular staples, and press them into the plastic. They melt their way in, and add strength. He then covers the metal my melting the plastic over it / around it. You'll have to watch it to understand it. Reminded me a bit of looking at my own belly staples, after the doctor cut me open with a sharp knife, a few years ago.
Hey, it's just an alternative. I have no vested interest in him or his procedures.
stainless steel screen pressed into the plastic with a soldering gun.. stronger than staples
 
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