Different tread front and rear
- Thread starter Road Slug
- Start date
If neither tire slips, neither one cares why the other one doesn't.
Uncle Phil routinely mixes radial and bias tires.
Uncle Phil routinely mixes radial and bias tires.
Omi different tread patterns is a good idea, front and back tires have different purposes , back tire moves the bike forward, front steers and slows the bike. Thread pattern is mainly to vent water out from under the tires.
50 years of mixing tire brands and models,, with no issues. Choose the tire you want for each end of the bike, based on research and experience. cheers, CAt'
Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
Have run a bias rear and a radial front for years and 400,000+ miles on my ST1100s. 
Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
The problem with a car tire on the ST1100 (not the ST1300) is you have to get a Goldwing rear hub and have some machining done to make it work.
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- Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
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- 1&2&3-2005 ST1300ABS
Whatever floats your boat, the newer the better.
I mix and match Bridgestones BT T30, T31, T32’s and now coming up T33’s.
I mix and match Bridgestones BT T30, T31, T32’s and now coming up T33’s.
Mixing tires is a chancy operation which some have good luck and some don't. It is always a best guess. I have done it when my tires wear and a unlikely puncture makes me replace one and been OK
If you look at the profile of the tire, some tires are more rounded (neutral) than others that have a more oblong or pointed profile that allows quicker turn-in. Mixing a front aggressive tire with a neutral rear is going be a weird feeling compared to a aggressive rear with a neutral front.
The amount of circumference on the ground will not be matched as the manufacturer intended and will attempt to track different lines.
Then you run into different compounds used in different angles of lean to enhance lean angle traction
I had a Michelin and a Dunlop mix once that made my ZRX porpoise through a corner. It was truly creepy.
I am kind of looking at new tire mixes........ When it comes to used tire it gets really complicated as the fronts tend to wear on the sides and the rears through the center. My 2015 Concours goes through front tires faster than the rears, so I cruise the shops looking for used front to match the rear as best I can. (which is also a crap shoot) Most of the time I am throwing away a bit of unused rear tire
If you look at the profile of the tire, some tires are more rounded (neutral) than others that have a more oblong or pointed profile that allows quicker turn-in. Mixing a front aggressive tire with a neutral rear is going be a weird feeling compared to a aggressive rear with a neutral front.
The amount of circumference on the ground will not be matched as the manufacturer intended and will attempt to track different lines.
Then you run into different compounds used in different angles of lean to enhance lean angle traction
I had a Michelin and a Dunlop mix once that made my ZRX porpoise through a corner. It was truly creepy.
I am kind of looking at new tire mixes........ When it comes to used tire it gets really complicated as the fronts tend to wear on the sides and the rears through the center. My 2015 Concours goes through front tires faster than the rears, so I cruise the shops looking for used front to match the rear as best I can. (which is also a crap shoot) Most of the time I am throwing away a bit of unused rear tire
Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
As I have posted many times my 'standard' is a BT020 BIAS (there is a radial version) on the rear and a BT03? (whatever is available) GT radial up front.
I have run that combination for hundreds of thousands of miles on ST1100s and the wear between front and rear is about equal.
The purpose of the 'GT' is it is supposed to have a stiffer sidewall - which is good for the STs since they are a bit on the heavy side.
I supposed if you did a lot of track days it would make a difference, but this combination handles well enough for me.
But then I do ride like an old man ...
I have run that combination for hundreds of thousands of miles on ST1100s and the wear between front and rear is about equal.
The purpose of the 'GT' is it is supposed to have a stiffer sidewall - which is good for the STs since they are a bit on the heavy side.
I supposed if you did a lot of track days it would make a difference, but this combination handles well enough for me.
But then I do ride like an old man ...
I was reading up on the T33's last night. And found that the front tire was both way over priced ($345.cdn) on Fortnine,,, and also out of stock. I left a re-stock notice request,, not that I plan to buy anytime soon,, but just want to know if their listing is in error. I installed a T32 front, just at the end of last season,,, and am really impressed with it, so far. Cheers,,, CAt'
As I have posted many times my 'standard' is a BT020 BIAS (there is a radial version) on the rear and a BT03? (whatever is available) GT radial up front.
I have run that combination for hundreds of thousands of miles on ST1100s and the wear between front and rear is about equal.
The purpose of the 'GT' is it is supposed to have a stiffer sidewall - which is good for the STs since they are a bit on the heavy side.
I supposed if you did a lot of track days it would make a difference, but this combination handles well enough for me.
But then I do ride like an old man ...
Could you explain the reason for the bias/radial mix?
Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
Sure - The rear bias gets 2-3 times the mileage of a rear radial - so a rear radial on one of my long trips would necessitate a tire change.
The front radial mileage and the rear bias mileage are about the same - so that works out nicely.
Most of the handling of a motorcycle IMHO is with the front tire as the rear just follows it.
IMHO radials provide better handling.
This combination gives me good handling and good mileage.
I'm usually 10,000+ miles between tire changes and at that point I want to look at the rear splines anyway.
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So how can you tell what designates a bias tire and a radial tire? Gt version radial?