Cruise control for ST1100

Joined
Sep 4, 2019
Messages
422
Age
49
Location
Georgia
Bike
ST1100
Hi!
Organizing files on my computer and looking to the pictures of my last travel to Europe, i remembered, that in the end of two weeks of everyday riding I had a sore wrist and desperately wanted a cruise control. I can buy something like Rostra CC for 300$ (too much, I think?) or even cheap plastic throttle grip fixer, but I want some fun) So I decided to make cruise control based on Arduino.
I'm not the first one who got this idea, there are a lot of examples of hand-made CC in the internet. So electronic and logic parts of it , I sure, is doable, I did some sketches of scheme already. Even kids do much more sophisticated projects on this platform, why not me?). Just ordered arduino kit to design a prototype and test it.
But the one unclear question for me now, is how to make a mechanical linkage from servo to the throttle pulley on the carbs. My ST1100 still sits in the garage, while owner stuck in France on Covid quarantine. He is ok, and I have some time while he returns back. But I need some dimensions of this part. If anyone, who have dissembled ST, or going to dig into carburetors, please take some measurements.
I would highly appreciate if you measure throttle cables movement range from idle to full, and diameter of throttle pulley. Also, would be nice to measure distance between screws placed right above the pulley. Please, check how big is a space behind the carbs, in front of that pulley, and on the left side of the carbs to place box with servo. Detailed pics and video would be appreciated too ) Just put the pic of the carb, which i found in the internet, to visualize what i need as minimum.

Thank you and have a nice day)
 

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Larry has found a cheap control switch, no doubt he will post it. I’m using a GoldWing 1500 control switch on mine.
What was your plan for getting the speed signal? The coil or magnets on the wheel and sensor.
MCcruise has the slickest throttle interface. It’s expensive, however the amount of time you spend R&D INV the other cruise controls on the market, it’s kinda worth the coin
 
Hi Alberto, sorry for the delay. Had to rummage around the shop to find the spare set of carbs I’ve squirrelled away...

The diameter of the linkage is 40mm and the distance between the screws, centre to centre, is 28mm.

I’ve taken a few pictures of the area around the linkage on my bike with a small ruler for scale. Hope they help.

I’ll keep the carbs handy and the bike open for the next while, in case you need any other information.

CFB7DB06-D8B0-412C-A2D6-AE32E357BBBA.jpeg9FAC03D9-1008-4DF0-81F8-5510A1A315FA.jpegD80D5E63-09A1-4520-BA30-78ECD673B685.jpeg
 
The diameter of the linkage is 40mm and the distance between the screws, centre to centre, is 28mm
Hi GGely,
thank you for info and pics, ill let you know if there will be questions during project)
 
the same, first idea was to use hall sensor with magnet on the wheel. Rostra has nice speed sensor, which is mounted in between speed cable and speedometer, but I don't understand its price: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rostra-250...it-w-Extension-Cable-Pre-1986-GM/283225780099
That’s a big unit to have hanging off your front wheel, not sure you would have room by the instrument cluster as an alternative location.
Using magnets in the rear disk and mounting the pick-up on the swing arm is low tech and it works. Putting an arm on the bell crank to attach the cruise cable is realitivley easy too
 
Larry has found a cheap control switch, no doubt he will post it.
Ah, yes, the Trail Tech 8500-RS. I wired mine to be always on, and used the center button as a cancel by activating a tiny cube relay to ground the clutch-switch wire, so I don't have to illuminate the brake light to release the CC.

trail-tech-switch-8500-RS-2.jpg
 
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On the rear wheel magnets, the best option is finding magnets that fit into the heads of the disc bolts (that's the way MCCruise does it).
You can then hang the Hall Sensor off the cinch bolt for the rear axle. This where I ordered some -



Applied Magnets
------------------------------------------------------
Order Invoice Number: 17308
Detailed Invoice: https://www.magnet4less.com/account_history_info.php?order_id=17308
Date Ordered: Wednesday 15 October, 2008

Products:
------------------------------------------------------
36 x 3/16 in x 1/4 in Thick, Grade N42, Rare Earth Neodymium Cylinder (ND009-1) = $6.12
36 x 3/16 in x 3/16 in Thick, Grade N42, Rare Earth Neodymium Cylinde (ND008) = $5.76

I don't remember which length was the final choice though- the 1/4 or 3/16.
 
the same, first idea was to use hall sensor with magnet on the wheel. Rostra has nice speed sensor, which is mounted in between speed cable and speedometer, but I don't understand its price: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rostra-250...it-w-Extension-Cable-Pre-1986-GM/283225780099
I have seen two different versions of that type, but I'm not sure which, if either, has threads compatible with the ST1100 speedo cable. Also, whether there is physical room in therefor the disc shape of the generator housing.

I used the 250-4165 kit ($56 on ebay) on the Nighthawk, spacing the four magnets around the left half of the rear wheel hub, and the coil bracket attached to the swing-arm, with the head of the coil bolt pointing forward.
 
I've just started installing a Rostra on my ST1100. Will be using the police switch for control.

My biggest issue is where to put the servo. I'm already using the tail space for shock remote preload and storing air compressor and tools.

Will likely sacrifice the right fairing pocket and mount it under there.

Having installed an Audiovox CCS100 on my old ST, I know what I'm in for. Found the schematic for wiring the police to cruise. Will have to rewire fog lights since I used one of the buttons the police switch for that.

I do enjoy the challenge of farkles like these!
 
My biggest issue is where to put the servo. I'm already using the tail space for shock remote preload and storing air compressor and tools.

Will likely sacrifice the right fairing pocket and mount it under there.

On the NH, there was an empty space behind the engine, under the air/battery box, above the swing-arm pivot, probably for something for a California bike. The servo fit in there using the bracket that came with it, and there was even a nut welded there.

I haven't stripped the ST yet (gulp!) so I haven't looked for a space yet - but I'm confidant I will find something. Maybe there's a place on one side of the rear end, like opposite the lifting handle. Or, relocate the compressor and tools to a saddlebag or trunk.

The right-side pocket would provide a secure place while giving you easy access to the DIP-switch settings, but I am the type that dislikes sacrificing or permanently modifying factory parts to make way for additions, like I was able to avoid with the NH.
 
I have an ABS equipped bike and I didn’t find enough room for the servo in the front. It might fit where the fuel cutoff valve is attached to the air cleaner.
Mine is in the tail section. There’s still room for a small air compressor or small bag of tools but not both. I also have my fuzbloc in there too.
 

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That’s a big unit to have hanging off your front wheel, not sure you would have room by the instrument cluster as an alternative location.
I think it is supposed to go under speedo, not sure about room under it either. But I think ill stick with magnet and sensor, yes, I see it as the easiest solution too.

I wired mine to be always on,
I didn't get it. always on engaged CC? Is that safe?
 
Pat - If you look at the left hand side, you can usually 'squeeze' (with a little persuasion) the vacuum booster inside the vertical stay.
You my have to bend the stay just a tiny bit. I have this setup on 3 of my ST1100s. Here's a picture but you'll have to look close -

Cruise Actuator Up Front Small.JPG
 
One more question, are clutch and brake switches grounded while pressed on? Or we have +12 v if brake or clutch engaged?
 
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