Counter Balancer Shaft Leaking Oil

Igofar said:
Really? You'll have to come up with something better than that.
Yes, the o-ring can be replaced, you can pull it out far enough to use a dental pick and pull it out of the groove.
You just don't want to try and remove the whole shaft or you risk loosing your adjustment, and you don't want stuff falling around inside the engine :rofl1:
The distance from the face of the crankcase to the centreline of the o ring is only 8mm so you will only need to ease the shaft out by about 11mm to get access to the o ring, this means that the other end of the shaft will still be in the crankcase.
Going by memory, and they say that is the first thing to go, so proceed at your own risk.
The dealerships also tell you that you must pull the entire engine to change the clutch slave cylinder as well. ;)
Click to expand...
GREAT CALCULATION @Igofar thank you!
I'll try to easy pull out the shaft until get access the o ring..

:roflmao-2x: that's why i never take this queen to dealership
 
MidLife said:
The area looks quite "oily". Was it like that before adjustment? Any chance it could have been leaking before the adjustment as well?
Click to expand...
before adjusment, i see the oil leak from balancer shaft area but not as much as after i did adjusment.

after adjusment, when engine is on I see oil flow from balancer shaft.

why i say from balancer shaft, because upper area is dry, clear and clean ;)
 
parahita_wicky said:
before adjusment, i see the oil leak from balancer shaft area but not as much as after i did adjusment.

after adjusment, when engine is on I see oil flow from balancer shaft.

why i say from balancer shaft, because upper area is dry, clear and clean ;)
Click to expand...

How is the oil level? Make sure it is not overfilled.
 
When you did the counter balancer adjustment, it does not appear that you cleaned the arms and graduation marks before you did the adjustment?
Do you have a Honda Service Manual? Did you follow it? Did you do the adjustments when the engine was stone cold?
Did you lubricate the shafts and pinch bolts so you could actually FEEL that the shaft was turning freely, and not pushing through dirt, giving you a false reading?
When you did the top one, you should have used the DOT and the Lines for your reading.
When you did the bottom one, you should have used the LINE and NOT the DOT for your adjustment reading.
You could have forced the shaft through dirt and crap, and damaged the O-ring, or used a spray cleaner (brake cleaner) that could have swollen up the O-ring and damaged it etc.
I can't tell from the pictures, but on one of them, it appears that something is leaking or running down the plastic from way above the adjuster shafts.
Are you absolutely sure that the shaft is leaking, or do you have a valve cover leak above this area, that is running down, and appearing to be a leak somewhere else?
I would completely clean the entire front of the engine, dry it off, then spray some white foot powder all over the front of the engine, then start the bike and see just where the leak is coming from, before you start tearing things apart.
 
Igofar said:
Really? You'll have to come up with something better than that.
Click to expand...
Dang, we thought we'd got you there!!
Igofar said:
Yes, the o-ring can be replaced, you can pull it out far enough to use a dental pick and pull it out of the groove.
You just don't want to try and remove the whole shaft or you risk loosing your adjustment, and you don't want stuff falling around inside the engine :rofl1:
The distance from the face of the crankcase to the centreline of the o ring is only 8mm so you will only need to ease the shaft out by about 11mm to get access to the o ring, this means that the other end of the shaft will still be in the crankcase.
Going by memory, and they say that is the first thing to go, so proceed at your own risk.
Click to expand...
@Igofar is of the opinion that you should be okay to pull out far enough (no more than about 11mm) to change the 'O' ring but only pull it out just far enough to get at it...

...and as he says, you do so at your own risk!!

Good luck!!!
 
Igofar said:
Really? You'll have to come up with something better than that.
Yes, the o-ring can be replaced, you can pull it out far enough to use a dental pick and pull it out of the groove.
You just don't want to try and remove the whole shaft or you risk loosing your adjustment, and you don't want stuff falling around inside the engine :rofl1:
The distance from the face of the crankcase to the centreline of the o ring is only 8mm so you will only need to ease the shaft out by about 11mm to get access to the o ring, this means that the other end of the shaft will still be in the crankcase.
Going by memory, and they say that is the first thing to go, so proceed at your own risk.
The dealerships also tell you that you must pull the entire engine to change the clutch slave cylinder as well. ;)
Click to expand...
Well, that's some valuable, competent information on this toppic...
Noted in case my friend faces this issue on his 1300 at some point... :thumbsup:
(we do have the w/shop manual, but not everything is covered in there...)
 
removing left fairing panel, upper balancer shaft looks "oily"
will clean this area and trying to pull it out softly :laugh:
 

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Igofar said:
When you did the counter balancer adjustment, it does not appear that you cleaned the arms and graduation marks before you did the adjustment?
Do you have a Honda Service Manual? Did you follow it? Did you do the adjustments when the engine was stone cold?
Did you lubricate the shafts and pinch bolts so you could actually FEEL that the shaft was turning freely, and not pushing through dirt, giving you a false reading?
When you did the top one, you should have used the DOT and the Lines for your reading.
When you did the bottom one, you should have used the LINE and NOT the DOT for your adjustment reading.
You could have forced the shaft through dirt and crap, and damaged the O-ring, or used a spray cleaner (brake cleaner) that could have swollen up the O-ring and damaged it etc.
I can't tell from the pictures, but on one of them, it appears that something is leaking or running down the plastic from way above the adjuster shafts.
Are you absolutely sure that the shaft is leaking, or do you have a valve cover leak above this area, that is running down, and appearing to be a leak somewhere else?
I would completely clean the entire front of the engine, dry it off, then spray some white foot powder all over the front of the engine, then start the bike and see just where the leak is coming from, before you start tearing things apart.
Click to expand...
my bad, i'm not cleaning the balancer area before adjusment. but i used wd-40 before loosing the bolt..
i have 03 service manual :geek:
 
Igofar said:
Really? You'll have to come up with something better than that.
Yes, the o-ring can be replaced, you can pull it out far enough to use a dental pick and pull it out of the groove.
You just don't want to try and remove the whole shaft or you risk loosing your adjustment, and you don't want stuff falling around inside the engine :rofl1:
The distance from the face of the crankcase to the centreline of the o ring is only 8mm so you will only need to ease the shaft out by about 11mm to get access to the o ring, this means that the other end of the shaft will still be in the crankcase.
Going by memory, and they say that is the first thing to go, so proceed at your own risk.
The dealerships also tell you that you must pull the entire engine to change the clutch slave cylinder as well. ;)
Click to expand...
That's what I thought ... what took you so long?:rofl1:
 
parahita_wicky said:
thanks guys! i did it
here's condition the o ring before i replace.
after all, no oil leaks and oil flow from balancer shaft when engine started
Click to expand...
I could not tell from your pic if the o-ring looked like it was damaged? What did you see when you examined it?
 
I can honestly say, that in the some 18 years I have been on this forum, this is the first time I have heard of an O ring failure on the balance shafts. Never a day should go by without learning something!!
 
drrod said:
I can honestly say, that in the some 18 years I have been on this forum, this is the first time I have heard of an O ring failure on the balance shafts.
Click to expand...
Me too, which is the very reason I called out @Igofar . Figured if anyone had done this, Larry had.
I bookmarked this site for years before I actually joined, when I got my 1300.
 
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