I run a small hardened wire through the hoses and tee, didn't see anything, but felt something when I blowed compressed air.I could blow through it so figured it was clear
Code 26
- Thread starter Bern
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Nashcat
Site Supporter
I've noticed that on one of the popular Goldwing forums, that I'm seeing a lot more posts about codes 25/26 popping up on 20 year old Goldwings. I don't think that the ST's have the fault all to themselves.
John
John
aniwack
Site Supporter
It's not the knock sensor. It's never the knock sensor.
The ECU is bad.
The ECU is bad.
I would be interested in finding a way to disrupt the ecu's ability to retard the timing, you know like cut a wire ,ok jackass now screw with the timing.
The ECU advances the timing until it hears a knock and then it backs it off until the knock has gone. This system has limited options. I don’t think the knock circuit has a fault, I think a knock actually occurs because of ECU error. Perhaps it is advancing the timing as it should but it is not backing it off when it hears a knock where the timing changes above 4K RPM.
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My 04 started lighting just out of blue while riding it one day,l thought huh, what's this light doing. Rode like that for a couple wks.turn it off& on light goes out,ride comes back on. I replaced the sensor, 134 bucks from partzilla. Low and BEHOLD the light went out. But it didn't last very long,just a few days, what's up with that?
Electrical components age. Capacitors age even when not being used, heat cycles (use) make them age faster. All new electrical components change with heat cycles, when you fit a new knock sensor it goes through burn in which slightly changes its electrical value. It's possible that when unused the knock sensor is still within an electrical range that the bad ECU finds acceptable, the best design for a componant is not to aim for it's values when new but when it has been burnt in, or heat cycled, used. The most likely components to fail in the ECU are capacitors. An ECU could fail early simply because of how any times it has been turned on and off or because its environment has more fluctuations in temperature than another.
Because you replaced the knock sensor switch and not the ecu.
It’s never the knock sensor switch.
The ecu is an electrical part, the get hot, they vibrate, they get old, they wear out etc.
Remember when all the early JAP motorcycles little black CDI box would be toast at 20k miles like clockwork?
Just like the map sensor code thrown, it’s never the map sensor switch, but crap clogging up the lines that go to the sensor switch.
Stop throwing solutions at the problem and instead find the cause…..unless you have a lot of $$$ you want to throw away.
I finally had enough and waved the white flag in surrender. Called Honda and scheduled a diagnostic appointment, they said there tool didn't recognize the ecu, like it wasn't there, they assumed bad ecu or bad wiring since there was already some rodent damage in it, but had checked it for continuity every that I could see checked good, so at the earging of several people on this forum the ecu is the next move. I thankyou for all of your advice.
I would love to know what diagnostic tool they used that didn't recognize the ECU....
Most shops, will just start throwing parts at it (generating revenue) until its fixed. This can be quite costly at $100 bucks an hour at most shops.
I'm guessing that in the end, they will tell you they had to replace the sub harness, ECU, injector wires, and all kinds of stuff that you may not have needed.
Demand ALL the old parts, and don't accept "we have to keep them to mail them to Honda for repair jobs" BS.
Most shops, will just start throwing parts at it (generating revenue) until its fixed. This can be quite costly at $100 bucks an hour at most shops.
I'm guessing that in the end, they will tell you they had to replace the sub harness, ECU, injector wires, and all kinds of stuff that you may not have needed.
Demand ALL the old parts, and don't accept "we have to keep them to mail them to Honda for repair jobs" BS.
I think every brand has there own proprietary diagnostic tool,you have to be a dealer to get one. Yes they wrote up a repair order,wire harness 910.77 sub hermes's 98.01 and pgm-fi 1155.72 840 labor. I just paid my 1 he. diagnostic fee and left.
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I'm just curious if there's a correlation of high miles or cycles between these ECU failures or if anyone's dealing with the problem with 60,000 miles / 100,000 kilometers.
The very last time I had to take a car in for something I couldn't figure out, through the help of friends ect, [1987] went kind of like, what's it doing? how many k are on it? It's the module, and if we don't change your coil, you can come back and we'll sell you another module...
But... you haven't even put it on the, the thing there...
The very last time I had to take a car in for something I couldn't figure out, through the help of friends ect, [1987] went kind of like, what's it doing? how many k are on it? It's the module, and if we don't change your coil, you can come back and we'll sell you another module...
But... you haven't even put it on the, the thing there...
To be fair....for those that work on a lot of these bikes, and see certain failures often, you can be pretty accurate in knowing what your going to find wrong.
Most the folks that contact me before they ride in to my garage, are asked a few similar questions, mileage, age, location, service history, etc.
I then have them order the parts that I think they will need, and have them drop ship the stuff at my place, so it will be waiting for them when they arrive.
The funny thing is, the look on their faces, as we start taking stuff apart and examining stuff, and they are shocked that every single piece that was suggested that they would need, was indeed used and needed!
Its very rare that I have any left over parts.
Most the folks that contact me before they ride in to my garage, are asked a few similar questions, mileage, age, location, service history, etc.
I then have them order the parts that I think they will need, and have them drop ship the stuff at my place, so it will be waiting for them when they arrive.
The funny thing is, the look on their faces, as we start taking stuff apart and examining stuff, and they are shocked that every single piece that was suggested that they would need, was indeed used and needed!
Its very rare that I have any left over parts.
Does anyone have the part number fore the ECUTo be fair....for those that work on a lot of these bikes, and see certain failures often, you can be pretty accurate in knowing what your going to find wrong.
Most the folks that contact me before they ride in to my garage, are asked a few similar questions, mileage, age, location, service history, etc.
I then have them order the parts that I think they will need, and have them drop ship the stuff at my place, so it will be waiting for them when they arrive.
The funny thing is, the look on their faces, as we start taking stuff apart and examining stuff, and they are shocked that every single piece that was suggested that they would need, was indeed used and needed!
Its very rare that I have any left over parts.
Been there. You will be fighting the FI light and trying to keep the codes clear forever. Chances are, it is not the knock sensor. You must either replace/repair the ECM, or replace the bike. I chose the latter.
Or......
PGM-FI UNIT
38770-MCS-L01
Retail Price: $1,155.72
Your Price: $813.62
Through Ronayers.com
Thanks for the tip, I"ll givem a jingle.