Living in Scotland we are not blessed with perfect weather, just normal engine running temp my problem occurs.
Clutch biting when hot
- Thread starter acaffair
- Start date
Living in Scotland we are not blessed with perfect weather, just normal engine running temp my problem occurs.
ST1100Y
Site Supporter
Agreed, installation requires talcum powder or rubbing-alcohol...
Scoring on the bottom of the hub-pockets would indicate the aluminium inserts having worked themselves through the rubber, now scraping on the rim material... both would be a possible symptom of the drive spline tilting under load...
I'd replace:
- hub dampers
- aluminium inserts
I'd seriously inspect
- condition of drive splines
- condition of hub centre/stub the drive spline is guided on
Would be easier to determine the issue if you could feed us some pics...
John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
Routine maintenance. The rubbers and their aluminum inserts wear out. Normal wear-n-tear items. Driveline lash increases along with the possibility of wheel and drive spline damage. If the rubber dampers fall out instead of having to be pried out they should be replaced. If the driven flange's fingers slip out of the inserts instead of having to be pried out, the holes in the inserts have elongated but can be reversed as long as the dampers are still serviceable. Always buy new inserts when replacing the dampers.
The EBay dampers seem to all be OEM Honda parts, not aftermarket...(?)
Edit: is your thrust washer missing?
John
Last edited:
All new John, dampers' inserts, holding down plate, splined spider and final drive complete, Only part not changed is the wheel. I just pulled it all apart again to see if I missed something, spacer washer there, Weather improving at the weekend so plan on putting some miles on her to find out if the clutch enjoys her new oil. I'll let you know how I get on,
At the price of these dampers I'm surprised they are OEM ???
All replaced, sorry should have taken pics, never thought. Even changed the wheel bearings. Must be the clutch??????????
After all my efforts the problem with the clutch is the same???
Cold, moving from a standing start perfect, at running temperature biting at final release of the clutch when moving, really annoying when in traffic.
Although i did the feeler guage on the metal clutch plates, they are the only part i have not changed, so I have ordered
a new set Honda genuine and will install when i have time.
I'm just wondering if they warp a little when hot, and then gives me this problem.
Cold, moving from a standing start perfect, at running temperature biting at final release of the clutch when moving, really annoying when in traffic.
Although i did the feeler guage on the metal clutch plates, they are the only part i have not changed, so I have ordered
a new set Honda genuine and will install when i have time.
I'm just wondering if they warp a little when hot, and then gives me this problem.
Avtrician
Replace the clutch lever with the adjustable one from a VFR. The clutch does engage firmly at the almost released point, the VFRs allow positioning the release a bit further in. Works for me in Oz
Looking at the Clutch poblems that are posted, i have just had to abandon a ride into the France "grand massif" because of a very annoying clutch problem. I loose all the action in the handlebar leaver, just get free play, but after a while it comes back to normal, i tried bleeding the system, no problem there. i thought i had cured the problem with bleeding so i set off on my outing, camp overnight, in the morning no clutch!, anyway to cut a long saga short i ride back to base in Brittany without clutch, 350 miles, not easy,g/box not a happy chappy!!. Today i strip the master cyl and take out the components, seals seem to be a little stressed but i'm not sure they are installed correctly, i have not got a pic of how they should be installed, i have ordered new service kit from D silver, so i need to know how the master cylinder components go back into the body, can anybody help. The Blow up of the master cylinder may be posted previously in past history of the site but i cant find it, thanks to anyone who can help,
John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
Will this help?
http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fich...=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=1997&fveh=132013
John
http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fich...=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=1997&fveh=132013
John
Thanks very much John for your microfisch copy,It does help. i now wait for the service kit to arrive so i can compare what i have taken out and the new components, strange but i have had this bike for 4 years and have had occasional problems with a "slack" clutch leaver but never any major problem untill now but i did note that on removing the master cylinder from the H/bar the bolts in the clamp were a different thread, so the previous owner must have had it off and maybe stripped the thread and re tapped to a different size, ?????????, thanks again, Bri.
John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
The schematic in the Honda Service Manual is very clear. Recommended if you're going to work on your ST.
John
via iPhone 4S
John
via iPhone 4S
Yes , Thanks for the reminder!!, i appreciate your advice, thanks, Bri.
Well Guys, having replaced all clutch parts , slave cylinder, master cylinder , cush rubbers etc I'm still getting the same biting on the rear cushy rubbers when moving from stationary . Strange only when hot, this what is throwing me !
Have decided to replace the clutch damper shaft. Big Job - swing arm - probably engine removal.
Will let you know how I get on.
Guess I'm just unlucky - good job I served my apprenticeship as a mechanic ( car )this problem has been a pain in the arse lol
Have decided to replace the clutch damper shaft. Big Job - swing arm - probably engine removal.
Will let you know how I get on.
Guess I'm just unlucky - good job I served my apprenticeship as a mechanic ( car )this problem has been a pain in the arse lol
Well that just stinks that you have done all of that and the problem is still there. I wonder what you could have missed. Good luck getting this figured out.
ST1100Y
Site Supporter
Clearance in mains- and prop-shaft damper are a) pretty rare (unless the bike was heavily abused, wheelies and such...) and b) normally only audible (a discreet "bang", like hitting metal with a hammer).
Dunno how "hefty" your take-offs are though...
When I really want to smoke it, I get a "uuieet" combined with a rubber-band feeling (hub dampers compressing) from the tranny line, but nothing on regular quick take-offs...
Proper condition of drive-splines and correct clearances between pinion- and ring-gear are confirmed?
On my prev '92 the "special washer" (warped spring-spacer) failing/braking apart... fragments caught infrequently in the tooting and the now very increased clearance on the ring gear caused quite an odd feeling at take-offs and load changes... got fixed under warranty the very next day (all bearings, shims, seals as well as pinion- & ring-gear replaced, clearances perfectly adjusted... the beST final drive I ever had, literally no noise, whilst the unit on the '00 ST always starts to chant when coasting...)
I drive this bike like an old man , no wheelies. The clutch on take off when cold is perfect. Once hot I get this rubber band effect as you say on the rear cush rubbers. Only part not replaced is the damper shaft and drive shaft - both are to be replaced. Can't understand how it only happens when hot?
Not sure what part you are mentioning - warped spring washer ?? where is the tooting??
Deam.... I?m looking your Thread and sound that we have same problem; my thread is: "Clutch is slipping when is hot"... I?m thinking to sena a E mail to Honda Co. in order to know if they have information about this, because sound a desing problem.
Deam.... I?m looking your Thread and sound that we have same problem; my thread is: "Clutch is slipping when is hot"... I?m thinking to sena a E mail to Honda Co. in order to know if they have information about this, because sound a desing problem.
I has just replaced the drive shaft, old one/universal joint was ok - still the same problem. You feel it biting on the rear wheel clear as day. Only part not replaced is the clutch damper shaft but engine has to come out to replace that.
Really interested on what Honda has to say
I was thinking that the problem was on the hose; because using the clutch the hose keeps pressure; so I made a test: today I drive to my work only i used the clutch one time and little by little the "clutch" start bitting... really no make me sense.
I read an article that mentioned that the problem could you be when you used synthetic oil... my story: when i buy the bike I didn?t felt any problem; I changed the oil for syntetic and stat the problem... I return for normal oil but maybe the clutch has a film of synt oil.. I don?t know if it is rout cause. What do you think..?
I read an article that mentioned that the problem could you be when you used synthetic oil... my story: when i buy the bike I didn?t felt any problem; I changed the oil for syntetic and stat the problem... I return for normal oil but maybe the clutch has a film of synt oil.. I don?t know if it is rout cause. What do you think..?