Someone ought'a buy up a bunch of the Curtis HD71's as fnmag suggests 'n maybe sell'em at the ST STore. Joe, you liSTening??? 
Broken key, bottom half still in the ignition.
- Thread starter Twempie
- Start date
Someone ought'a buy up a bunch of the Curtis HD71's as fnmag suggests 'n maybe sell'em at the ST STore. Joe, you liSTening???
I'll look into it, wouldn't hurt to have as something in the shop to buy while getting other stuff. I'm not sure I could get a good enough deal to make it cheaper than someone getting them on their own.
+1 on the ILCO or Curtis x265 hd109.
Take your least worn oem and have a bunch of spares made then put it away where you won't be tempted to use if.
Make sure you always have 2 with you in case you need a jump.
If the gas cap takes some effort try pushing down on the cap and turning.
If you lube the lock and underside locking tangs and spring loaded surround it really lossens up.
Check those tangs for burrs.
Others have have had luck loosening the 3 function gas cap assy screws and realigning the whole assembly a little.
And make sure you flush out the evil WD40 and replace it with a dri lube like dri-slide
Take your least worn oem and have a bunch of spares made then put it away where you won't be tempted to use if.
Make sure you always have 2 with you in case you need a jump.
If the gas cap takes some effort try pushing down on the cap and turning.
If you lube the lock and underside locking tangs and spring loaded surround it really lossens up.
Check those tangs for burrs.
Others have have had luck loosening the 3 function gas cap assy screws and realigning the whole assembly a little.
And make sure you flush out the evil WD40 and replace it with a dri lube like dri-slide
A like the idea of removing the locking gas cap. Several folks have done it and there's a thread here somewhere on finding the non-locking replacement.
I've done it on my 1100s, just remove the lock from the plastic lid. It's covered by the tank bag so no problem with security (for me. I never worry about it.)
Just a thought...
I've done it on my 1100s, just remove the lock from the plastic lid. It's covered by the tank bag so no problem with security (for me. I never worry about it.)
Just a thought...
Yesterday my key broke in two. As someone else pointed out, it is due to the twisting motion over the years. I found that the locks in the panniers are the guilty ones, as I use those every day (I wish they didn't require a key). My key snapped in the pannier lock, so it was easy to remove. phew...
I use ACF50 in my locks.... works beautifully and free's stiff locks up also.
I am told you should use graphite powder in locks and I guess if you do that from day one it works quite well, however if you have never used it and the locks start to get stiff due to dirt and corrosion, I can assure you that no end of graphite will free them up... but ACF50 does.
It also lasts a good while and if you just trickle it down a partially inserted key then work the lock a few times carefully to spread it, then it works wonders.
I rescued a near seized fuel cap lock on a previous NT650 and since then have always applied ACF50 as a preventative measure at every service.
+1 on getting extra keys cut.... Honda uses a little known Japanese alloy made from hardened metallic cheese.......
Always ensure that a key is properly inserted before trying to turn it as this is when the damage occurs... and using an ignition key in the tank and panniers is a surefire method to get it to eventually snap in the ignition....
Don't EVER use WD40, it is neither a lubricant nor an anti corrosion treatment...... it does however do a great job of retaining dirt and dust..... leading to all sorts of other issues.
Egg sucking complete?
I am told you should use graphite powder in locks and I guess if you do that from day one it works quite well, however if you have never used it and the locks start to get stiff due to dirt and corrosion, I can assure you that no end of graphite will free them up... but ACF50 does.
It also lasts a good while and if you just trickle it down a partially inserted key then work the lock a few times carefully to spread it, then it works wonders.
I rescued a near seized fuel cap lock on a previous NT650 and since then have always applied ACF50 as a preventative measure at every service.
+1 on getting extra keys cut.... Honda uses a little known Japanese alloy made from hardened metallic cheese.......
Always ensure that a key is properly inserted before trying to turn it as this is when the damage occurs... and using an ignition key in the tank and panniers is a surefire method to get it to eventually snap in the ignition....
Don't EVER use WD40, it is neither a lubricant nor an anti corrosion treatment...... it does however do a great job of retaining dirt and dust..... leading to all sorts of other issues.
Egg sucking complete?
Just did the same thing last week.
Now I just need to replace my topbox lock and all will be good.
I don't usually need to lock my saddlebags either so I had a couple of spare keys made up. I cut them down (so they can't be used in the ignition), epoxied a plastic cap on top and then I just leave them in the saddlebag.
There shouldn't be much torque on the saddle bag locks. Keep the lock cylinder and the latching pawls clean and lubed with something like dri-slide. It also helps to push down on the latch handle and in on the outside of the clam shell with your your hip if they are massively overloaded like mine get
Also check the threads about maintaining the locking gas cap.+1 on the ilco or curtis keys for every day use.
Are we sure about that, ie, with locks and ignition exposed to the elements.
What if you just applied graphite and it rains? Won't it clump up inside the cylinder?
An old trick is to straighten out a small fish hook and insert so the barb can "hook" on the key and pull both out.
For my gas cap I always use the shorter keys made up for the bags/fairing lock... If your lock is overly hard to turn and release on the tank, you may need to loosen the tank cap and readjust.
For my gas cap I always use the shorter keys made up for the bags/fairing lock... If your lock is overly hard to turn and release on the tank, you may need to loosen the tank cap and readjust.
We have a couple of locksmiths over here on another forum and they are always repeating the mantra of graphite being the correct lock lubricant..... personally I wouldn't put it anywhere near a bike lock of any kind.....
I live next to the Lower Clyde in Dunoon, a more salty atmosphere you could not get.... I have padlocks that are corroded badly externally, but are treated internally with ACF50... still working fine.....
I live next to the Lower Clyde in Dunoon, a more salty atmosphere you could not get.... I have padlocks that are corroded badly externally, but are treated internally with ACF50... still working fine.....
Short key farkle.
You can elimiate the long key and it's habit to break from torquing it. And by leaving them in all (well most) of the time, you eliminate the hassle of sticking in the keys to get in and then lock/unlock.
Yes, the single point locking like on the Wing would be nice, but then it would be a Wing.
There's a thread on here somewhere that touches on which type of locks can tolerate graphite lubricant without gumming up the works.
Maybe safedoctors post or someone else who's a locksmith on the forum.
ST Gui
240Robert
+1
There have been some great variations of the SKF posted. As noted you can often leave the key in the bags and maybe the glovebox and they go unnoticed. Saves time and wear and tear. Remove if desired. One the road the glovebox key is handy for the gas cap.
My favorite variation is the one using some knobs from Radio Shack. Very clean and unobtrusive but with a professional ?lan.
Seriously? I'd be afraid someone would take one and have a real key made (ie, the full length of the key) and off they go.
I went to the locksmith on Sat to have 4 keys made (iLco x265 HD109) and I asked what should be used on locks in our neck of the woods (high humidity).
He insisted to never use graphite on house locks or bike locks (or any lock exposed to the elements). He pointed to a can of spray lube on the shelf - I didn't jot the name down or take a photo, but he said, "it's a silicone lube". Personally, I use a "dry lube" - spray it on the key (not the lock) then insert into cylinder.