Brilliant jump start modification

NorCalBusa

NorCalBusa

Joined
Jan 15, 2009
Messages
244
Location
HolliSTer, CA
Bike
2012 ST1300A
Credit is due to Dominick (Tech) at Hollister Honda. Dom builds their police bikes, of which they sell a LOT- and it seems the coppers are in the habit of often running batteries down, as they position the bikes blocking traffic with emergency lights on/key off. Old way was using some sort of high current connector, not unlike tow trucks. Very robust, but the cables with the connector never seem to be around.

So here is Dom's awesome idea;

- Remove the right side saddle bag
- Drill a modest sized hole (say 1/4") through the lower plastic*
- Run a heavy gauge (I think 6-8ga is plenty) cable from the positive of the battery, to the bolt
- Secure one end to the bolt with a lug (crimp/solder), energizing the bolt
- Secure the other end to the battery with a lug (crimp/solder)
- Replace the saddle bag

So this small bolt is now energized, but as there is nothing to ground to nearby- it is safe to just leave as is. When you need a jump; ANY car or bike can give it, since everyday jumper cables can be used (yeah- the other guy needs to have cables). Pop off the bag, attach 12+ jumper to the bolt head and ground cable to a chassis ground (the swing arm- whatever you like).

I will be doing this mod next time I have a project or maintenance and will post pics. Thanks Dom- great idea!


*Location- consider both sides of where this bolt will reside, swing arm movement and so forth- make sure it's clear of everything. Same with cable routing. Very straightforward, just take a good look around before you get "started" (<---see what I did there!).
 
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A very good idea. Just take care when you remove the piece of tuuperware in the future you keep an eye on the exposed backside.

NorCalBusa said:
but the cables with the connector never seem to be around
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Carry the cables with ya. I made a pair of 6' cables and keep them under the seat. Always ready to jump someone or receive a jump if I should be in need. And being under the seat you don't have to worry about storing them back in the sadllebag and needing the key that is in the ignition...

But it's all good, having a variety of solutions for a problem let's everyone pick what works for them.
 
What's that old saw- "A lazy man makes the finest engineer"! What I like is the simplicity of it- no special anything needed to get or give a jump.
 
If a person wanted to make a set of cables, how heavy gauge should you use?
Standard jumper cables are so bulky and difficult to carry.
Rod
 
Just make sure the line is fused as close to the battery as possible, because the last thing you want during a wreck is an unfettered battery looking for a place to ground itself.

--Mark
 
Two ways- if you want to truly jump start, I'd use 6ga-8ga for up to 10' of run. An alternative that allows smaller (and easier stored) cables is to use the second vehicle to surface charge, not jump. You could use 18ga for this- hook it all up, run the donor bike at fast idle for 10 minutes, disconnect and try to start. Either way- don't crank & crank- that indicates something else is wrong.

drrod said:
If a person wanted to make a set of cables, how heavy gauge should you use?
Standard jumper cables are so bulky and difficult to carry.
Rod
Click to expand...
 
Blrfl said:
Just make sure the line is fused as close to the battery as possible, because the last thing you want during a wreck is an unfettered battery looking for a place to ground itself.

--Mark
Click to expand...

I doubt you can fuse for that kind of amperage- would likely need a breaker instead. Frankly, if a crash is bad enough to cause that, I want the thing to burn to the ground...so I can get a new one.
 
NorCalBusa said:
no special anything needed to get or give a jump.
Click to expand...
Well... ya still need the cables. I can see it now.. two ST's sitting on the side of the road.. gingerly leaning together... trying to get close enough to touch each others bolts... and then the frustration as they are so close... but she just won;'t let him go all the way...


Blrfl said:
Just make sure the line is fused as close to the battery as possible
Click to expand...
I put an 80 amp fuse inline, AGU style, just 2 inches from the battery. Wire size is 8 gauge, silicone jacketed. You can easily find these things in the aftermarket car stereo section.

drrod said:
If a person wanted to make a set of cables, how heavy gauge should you use?
Click to expand...
Here is the writeup on what I did. Feel free to steal an idea or two. The cable wasn't what I thought was so bulky as finding a decent pair of clamps.
 
T_C said:
Well... ya still need the cables. I can see it now.. two ST's sitting on the side of the road.. gingerly leaning together... trying to get close enough to touch each others bolts... and then the frustration as they are so close... but she just won;'t let him go all the way...
Click to expand...
LOL. Finding a car and friendly driver with jumpers isn't that tough...For me, I hate riding with a ton of stuff (tool, parts, other junk). Keep the bike well maintained, don't do anything major right before a trip (so it can fail while on the trip) and go enjoy the ride!
 
T_C said:
I put an 80 amp fuse inline, AGU style, just 2 inches from the battery. Wire size is 8 gauge, silicone jacketed. You can easily find these things in the aftermarket car stereo section.
Click to expand...

I think it might still burn rather well with 80 amp protection- that's a lot of current...All depends of course.
 
NorCalBusa said:
I doubt you can fuse for that kind of amperage- would likely need a breaker instead.
Click to expand...

Fuses are available in very large sizes; the biggest I've run across for an automotive application is 250A. I think a typical motorcycle starter draws 100-150A, so a 150 or 175 should cover it nicely.

Of course, if all you're getting is intermittent arcy-sparky, the fuse isn't likely to get hot enough to blow.

--Mark
 
Here is a pic of my set up on the ST1100

andersonplug.jpg


JumperLeadconnected.jpg


The plug is an anderson plug and is readily available. My connectors are crimped, but I have the proper tools to do it.
 
T_C said:
Well... ya still need the cables. I can see it now.. two ST's sitting on the side of the road.. gingerly leaning together... trying to get close enough to touch each others bolts... and then the frustration as they are so close... but she just won;'t let him go all the way...
Click to expand...

:rofl1: :bow1:
 
That's the connector I mentioned found on tow trucks (in a larger size)- thanks. I prefer Dom's remedy, as anyone with jumpers (I don't have to carry them) can help out and its uber simplicity. Thanks for posting that though.

Avtrician said:
Here is a pic of my set up on the ST1100

andersonplug.jpg


JumperLeadconnected.jpg


The plug is an anderson plug and is readily available. My connectors are crimped, but I have the proper tools to do it.
Click to expand...
 
NorCalBusa said:
Pop off the bag, attach 12+ jumper to the bolt head and ground cable to a chassis ground (the swing arm- whatever you like).
Click to expand...

It's been a while since I had my ST, but don't you need the key to put the bag back on? My bike is running now but I need to turn it off to put the bag back on. :( Seems like somewhere under the seat with a protective cap would be a better option. Should be plenty of jump ports with caps in the junk yards as many cars have those now. Could even have it switched if you are real ambitious.

I also wouldn't ground to the swing arm. It is probably insulated somewhat and you may burn something. The frame would be a better choice. If while grounding to the frame under the seat the scratches or arcs wouldn't matter. Plus to the best of my memory you don't need the key to put the seat back on.

I know some of you carry extra keys.
 
Dude- you gotta do the cut-off extra key mod with a knob top! (PS- you need the key to remove the seat too!).

Skunkape said:
It's been a while since I had my ST, but don't you need the key to put the bag back on? My bike is running now but I need to turn it off to put the bag back on. :( Seems like somewhere under the seat with a protective cap would be a better option. Should be plenty of jump ports with caps in the junk yards as many cars have those now. Could even have it switched if you are real ambitious.

I also wouldn't ground to the swing arm. It is probably insulated somewhat and you may burn something. The frame would be a better choice. If while grounding to the frame under the seat the scratches or arcs wouldn't matter. Plus to the best of my memory you don't need the key to put the seat back on.

I know some of you carry extra keys.
Click to expand...
 
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