Bike not started for 17 years!

Sadlsor said:
I guess I never knew the NT has LBS too... does that include the SMC?
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Nope, just a [delay valve] for the LH front caliper center piston when activating the rear brake...
Simple and efficient..
And ze GF always praises them brakes, the thing stops on a dime (essential in urban commute), the ABS rarely activates; even during safety trainings it takes her a while to overcome her inhibitions to get it kicking in... but she did, hence knows how it feels so she won't get scared if it activates...
 
Andrew Shadow said:
That two year limit is a recommendation from a vendor and is not a specification. There is no fixed shelf-life for brake fluid listed in the regulations that I have ever come across. For brake fluid stored properly in an unopened and factory sealed container some manufacturers state two years, some state five years, and some state indefinite. To further complicate matters it also varies based on the type of brake fluid in question. So it seems that there is a lack consensus.

In my opinion the best course of action is to purchase only the quantity of brake fluid that is needed to accomplish the job at hand. This means buying new brake fluid every time that brake fluid is needed, which is the best course of action as it eliminates the concern about shelf life all together.
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As long as you buy a popular brand that moves off the shelf. I've seen old containers of fuel additives on auto parts shelves that have enough dust on them to have been there since the last ice age. I'd hope brake fluid containers is sold within those recommended time periods.
 
Jeremy Parrott said:
Hi all, I am after some advice please. I have just purchased a 2004 Pan with 5500 miles on he clock, I know its very low. That's the good bit.
However it has not been started or turned a wheel for 17 years ! Barak obama was just elected and Gordon Brown was prime minister....
So what would you all recommenced I do first?????
Thanks
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Make sure you have enough oil in the engine and coolant. Do the minimum necessary to get it started and go from there. If you have a lot of old fuel in it, then drain it,if not, just add fresh fuel on top of it and call it good. The fuel pump in the lower tank has a filter on it so you will not send anything in the injectors like others suggested. If it runs,let it run for half hour while keeping an eye on things like temp gauge, coolant leak,oil leaks. After passing this test, it's just a matter of your comfort level and how much you want to spend on it.
 
Igofar said:
Unless you purchase it at a small hole in the wall parts store where it has been sitting on the shelf for ten years :rofl1:
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Up to the buyer to check.
If you know how to read the batch number on the container it includes the information that tells you the date that it was bottled so that isn't a problem.
 
I didn't read all the replies but I'm sure there are numerous sage advice-givers suggesting draining the carbs, tank, changing the oil, and squirting a little oil into the cylinders, turning the engine over by hand first, etc. All smart tidbits.

But the Honda I know, and we all know, you could probably splash some fresh gas into it, charge/change the btty, check the oil level, then kick it over. That's just how they are.

Welcome to the club!
 
gunsmoker said:
I took my "new to me" 2007 ST-1300 to fellow member here ANIWACK, who is a mechanic, and he reported that my brake system had a mass of something like a blood clot in it. I'd been riding the bike for a few weeks since I got it before this, and while I know I had "some" braking power on both the front and rear (I tested each separately out on the road), it feels much better after the service and fluid change. My bike was 17 years old... the fluid "could have" been original, although obviously some service items had been completed before by a prior owner.
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Something like this possibly…
 

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While ya'all advising on how to fix it, the OP probably got rid of that bike long ago, lol
 
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