Gloves Best Procedure/Stuff To Help Restore/Preserve Deer Skin Riding Gloves

Uncle Phil said:
Got an email into Churchhill Gloves - the US Manufacturer that made them for Gordon's.
We'll see what their response is.
I didn't see anything in the Olympia GLOVE CARE about deer skin gloves so I emailed them.
So we'll see what Olympia has to say about it also.
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Try this
www.olympiagloves.com

The Ultimate Guide to Deerskin Gloves: From Cost to Care

Getting on your bike and taking it for a spin, whether that’s to run some errands or on a cross-country haul, involves gearing up first. And, while most people think of motorcycle gear and instantly
www.olympiagloves.com www.olympiagloves.com
 
mello dude said:
If the gloves are dried out and somewhat stiff, can that be saved?
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On deerskin gloves that get wet, dried and hard, I put them on, pour a little Lexol in the palm, and roll my hands around like I am washing my hands real good working it into the gloves. Works great. Wow, 51 years of doing that and had no idea I wasn't supposed to be using it on my gloves lol.

I do know deerskin gloves can have different finishes depending on how they are tanned, dyed (spay, hand or dipped) and finish treated by the manufacturer
 
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Uncle Phil said:
**NOTE - They said 'leather conditioner' in the article but I was hoping they would recommend one or two products.
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Yes, I was a bit disappointed at that too. Lot of generalities, but not too many specifics. For cleaning, he suggested a leather cleaning product - saddle soap is the only one I know of.

I looked at their gloves (as suggested in the article) but was disappointed. The Lee Parks gloves have a reinforcing patch on the knckles that does not compromise their flexibility or feel.
 
I have found one article elsewhere that recommends Bick Leather Conditioner and some sort of saddle soap.
Saddle soap seems to the 'cleaner' of choice so I just need to chose the conditioner.
I prefer to stay away from anything that 'seals the pores' as I don't think that is good for deer skin stuff.
Before I spend any coin, I hope I will hear back from Churchhill and/or Olympia with some specifics.
 
For dry and stiff leather stuff, I usually clean with saddle soap before using a leather conditioner.
For one thing, it makes sense to me, to clean the leather before "conditioning."
I have since learned, as posted here, many conditioners do actually seal the pores to aid in waterproofing, but that's not always desired.
 
Another thing I am pursuing is to see if I can get the same gloves from Churchhill that they sold to Gordon's to make heated gloves.
If I can, there is a feller that supposedly can add electric 'heat' to any gloves.
That should sort of 'replicate' the Gordon's heated gloves that I have and truly love - best heated gloves I've ever owned and I've owned pretty much all of the major brands.
I just hate that Gordon's went out of business but I think Covid did them in.
 
I have 20ish year old Z leather gloves and were to the point of thinking i need to retire them. Love them! But were dry and stiff.
(Remember those? You send them l/r hand print and they make gloves custom with deer leather)
I did the saddle soap job, work it in hard with a toothbrush, sit overnight, then hit again with Lexol conditioner plus toothbrush. Another overnite and more Lexol.
It worked really good to the point that I am not looking for new gloves and back to using my well broken in Deertracks. Yea!

Thanks to all for the tips. :thumb:
 
I've got some Fiebings Saddle Soap and some Bick 4 Leather Conditioner I am going to try.
The good thing about the Bick stuff it supposedly does not contain any wax products that will clog up the pores.
We'll see when I get one of those Round Tuits and try it. ;)
 
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