Balancing beads.

It seems to me if you step in a bunch of either, you'll wind up on your keister! :old1:


:rofl1:
 
If this was true, every car owner, where wheel balance is much more critical - and noticeable if it is off - due to the much heavier rotating mass, would have to have their tires rebalanced every 10,000 miles or so.

I have often noticed this phenomenon. On the truck, which is under warranty, I had the balance redone at 19,000 miles, and the wheels/tires WERE significantly off. On the Acura, since re-balancing is free where I buy tires, I have then re-balanced before any major trip. I have watched carefully, and only in one instance, ONE of the tires was NOT out of balance.

I think this is usally ignored, since they go "out" so slowly, one becomes accustomed to the unbalance, unless it is very bad.
 
I believe after doing some research I am going to give Igofar's recommended 'Ride On' a try when I mount my new tires in a couple of weeks.
 
To add to the fray, I DO use Counteract beads at every tire change. I also balance the tires, statically, beforehand. Belt and suspenders, of course! It's too soon for me to determine if the beads are doing any good, but they certainly are not affecting the balance negatively. I did take the bike up to about 100MPH, and it was rock solid, but, then again, it might have been just with the regular balancing.
 
I see a number of members doing their own tire changes and static balancing. Except that it's time consuming I wonder how that compares to dynamic balancing with good equipment. I saw a set of my tires balanced on a machine that did one maybe two revolutions and stopped. It not only showed where the weights went but how much and on which side of the rims.

At some point this gets down to levels where it's beyond our ability to resolve actual performance differences and all that's left is to argue preference as fact. :crackup:
 
I see a number of members doing their own tire changes and static balancing. Except that it's time consuming I wonder how that compares to dynamic balancing with good equipment. I saw a set of my tires balanced on a machine that did one maybe two revolutions and stopped. It not only showed where the weights went but how much and on which side of the rims.

At some point this gets down to levels where it's beyond our ability to resolve actual performance differences and all that's left is to argue preference as fact. :crackup:
It just takes a few seconds on a static balancer.. you don't spin the tire hard and wait for it to stop.. you simply divide the tire into 4 quadrants. Slowly turn to one quadrant and see if it moves on it's own.. if so, go to the next quadrant to isolate the heavy spot... add weight to the light spot and repeat to see the change... About 40% of the time, you don't need any weights.

I'm sure the powered balancers are better, just now sure they're THAT much better.
 
I've never had reason to take my balanced tires & rims to a shop to see what their balancer would indicate as to 'goodness' of my static balance.

On every bike I've had, I static balance the rims without tires installed, and that usually results in good static balance even after tires are installed. Whenever changing tires (my bikes or others bikes), I leave the weights on, change the tires, and check balance as a last step. Amazing how many times the static balance is right on using a method like Joe mentions above.--it is infrequent that a weight needs added or removed after the tire is installed.
 
I've never had reason to take my balanced tires & rims to a shop to see what their balancer would indicate as to 'goodness' of my static balance.

On every bike I've had, I static balance the rims without tires installed, and that usually results in good static balance even after tires are installed. Whenever changing tires (my bikes or others bikes), I leave the weights on, change the tires, and check balance as a last step. Amazing how many times the static balance is right on using a method like Joe mentions above.--it is infrequent that a weight needs added or removed after the tire is installed.
One thing I keep wanting to try but always forget is balancing the wheel/tire without it being aired up... so I can move the tire around ... just because I'm curious if that would help make the job easier... however, I'm usually balance it the regular way and get it back on the bike so I always forget... lol
 
When I took my bike in for new tires in 2017 I observed the "tech" taking my rear muffler off my bike to remove the axle. After some verbal discussion I told him I wanted to watched the progress. He put the tire on this thing and spun it by hand 3 times before he found the right weight. I got about 6K on the bridgestones so far so good. But I am done with this shop because this "tech" should have seen the detent in the muffler and know that you don't have to remove muffler for rear tire change.
 
I've got a picture somewhere of a pie pan with 7 pounds of #6 lead shot that I removed from a Police Motor front wheel, after the owner replaced the front tire, and balanced it himself with....beads, that he thought would work!
The front tire would gallop and bounce upon take off and try and jerk the bars out of your hands at anything over 20 mph!
After removing the tire, and removing the lead shot, I found the inside of the rim completely paint free and bead blasted.
You can't fix stupid :nuts:
 
Keister? Is that near your gluteus maximus? :rofl1:
I've got a picture somewhere of a pie pan with 7 pounds of #6 lead shot that I removed from a Police Motor front wheel, after the owner replaced the front tire, and balanced it himself with....beads, that he thought would work!
The front tire would gallop and bounce upon take off and try and jerk the bars out of your hands at anything over 20 mph!
After removing the tire, and removing the lead shot, I found the inside of the rim completely paint free and bead blasted.
You can't fix stupid :nuts:
Thought that was Gladiator!!
 
One thing I keep wanting to try but always forget is balancing the wheel/tire without it being aired up... so I can move the tire around ... just because I'm curious if that would help make the job easier... however, I'm usually balance it the regular way and get it back on the bike so I always forget... lol
I don't think that would work. Usually the tire won't be out as far all around until the bead pops out on top of the rim all around. I would guess the low side would be pretty "light" until seated.
 
It used to be that the "light spot" of the tire was marked with a yellow dot. You were supposed to mount the tire so that the dot was lined up with the valve stem. Supposedly that would make it balance out easier. The last few tires I have mounted have not had the dot. Not sure why.
 
It used to be that the "light spot" of the tire was marked with a yellow dot. You were supposed to mount the tire so that the dot was lined up with the valve stem. Supposedly that would make it balance out easier. The last few tires I have mounted have not had the dot. Not sure why.


Michelins do not have that yellow dot! :think1:
 
I mount mine up and put in the counteract and head out. Never had a problem with anything.
 
Michelins do not have that yellow dot! :think1:

Now you have me thinking as well:rolleyes:. I remember seeing the dots on many tires, just not recently (last couple of years). Could have swore that they were on the PR2,3 &4's that I used to run. Certainly not on the PIrelli Angels, Metzler 01, or BST31's that I have last mounted.
 
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